Yes it's back! After a couple of false starts when the dates didn't quite work, my annual interrogation of the Heart of England railway network reclaims its rightful place on the WME exploration calendar. Three intense days of adventure await, covering far flung destinations in Derbyshire, Worcestershire and Cheshire...
- Gregory Tunnel (Cromford Canal) -
I've gone with the three-in-seven day Flexi Rover option this year, which at £109 is good value provided you get the mileage in. To that end, a trip along the Derwent Valley line sounds ideal so I meet Nick at Birmingham and we travel north to Derby (even allowing ourselves a cheeky morning tipple in the Brunswick, always one of HRH's favourites where a quick slurp of Black Sabbath really hits the spot). Our first full destination is Whatstandwell, a small village on the A6 which acts as our gateway to the Cromford Canal. Brightening skies encourage us along the towpath for discoveries such as Gregory Tunnel - roughly 73 metres long - and Wigwell Aqueduct, carrying the canal over the aforementioned railway line.
- Cromford Mills -
Further treats await in the form of Aqueduct Cottage (guarding the short Nightingale Arm), Leawood Pump House (which originally started operating in 1849), and High Peak Junction where the canal historically would interchange goods with the railway towards Whaley Bridge. There's a lot of industrial heritage in this area, chiefly on account of Sir Richard Arkwright's endeavours in setting up Cromford Mills as the world's first water-powered cotton factory. We peruse their visitor centre before heading into Cromford Village itself for a refreshing stop at the Boat Inn; the pub is totally inundated with coachtrip diners but there's just enough space for us to partake of Draught Bass (or Olde Peculier should you be of that persuasion) while pondering posters detailing execution arrangements for the notorious felon Dick Turpin.
- An Iceberg Encounter in Matlock -
Hitching a ride on the Little Sixes bus route as run by Trent Barton, we proceed into Matlock which is the Derwent Valley line's northern terminus. The town functions as an administrative base for Derbyshire County Council while the neighbouring settlement of Matlock Bath is a respected spa resort. A happy afternoon is spent accounting for three Dale Road hostelries all within a very short distance of each other, starting with bod as another outlet in the growing list of Titanic Brewery cafe bars. Having each survived our combined collision with an Iceberg, we make the acquaintance of a Remarkable Hare (supping Thornbridge's Importance of Being Pale Ale surrounded by pumpclips) and Twenty Ten, where Nick's regal leanings ensure the King George Bitter is readily selected. All three establishments are highly recommended.
- Belper, briefly -
Eager to extract every last drop out of the Derwent Valley area, we can't resist a Belper Bonus especially given that Nick had never visited the town before. Quite how much of an impression it can make in little under an hour is debatable, but the short and sweet nature of our sojourn will be fondly remembered for finding Arkwright's Real Ale Bar on Campbell Street. Anywhere serving North Riding's Chocolate and Fudge Porter (a.k.a. liquid cake) will instantly earn our affections forevermore, what a delicious beer that is! The Railway meanwhile managed not to get completely overshadowed, offering Lincoln Green hospitality that is handy for the station.
- Evesham Station -
If Monday was dedicated to Derbyshire, and Tuesday had me bidding a sad but very fond final farewell to Mr B Senior at his funeral, I'll now focus on Worcestershire Wednesday for which my eyes are fixated solely upon Evesham. Set on the banks of the River Avon, this delightful town is served by the Cotswold Line between Worcester, Oxford and London Paddington; the GWR carriages seem a step up in passenger comfort compared to what I usually experience in the West Midlands. Evesham Station first opened in 1840 and still retains much original architecture as well as having a community garden on the Oxford-bound platform.
- Evesham Abbey Bell Tower -
No visit to Evesham is complete without having a look around the Abbey Gardens, which I'm pleased to see have been the subject of much restoration work in recent years. The Abbey itself was founded in the early 8th century and was of a Benedictine association prior to the dissolution during Tudor times. The fabulous Bell Tower was thankfully spared destruction and continues to dominate the Abbey precincts along with All Saints Church and the adjacent St Lawrence's - now there's a fetching trio of handsome places of worship if ever there was one!
- The Red Lion -
Along with my general Evesham sightseeing, I naturally make time to include a pub or two. The standout contenders include the Trumpet, a Hook Norton tied house situated slightly back off Merstow Green - it has to be Old Hooky here and the home-cooked meals look tempting too. My other must in terms of ale sampling is the Red Lion on the Market Place, all rustic low beams, dried hops and an agreeable sense of mellowness. North Cotswolds' Moreton Mild never fails to tickle my fancy and is perfectly served in a dimpled pint glass - heaven!
- Faith, Charity and Hope -
All of which brings us unerringly to Thursday 20th June for the third and sadly concluding leg of this year's rovering. Nick rejoins me to chip away at Cheshire, whereby mighty Macclesfield gets grappled with for the second year running; clearly it made such an excellent impact last year that it proves irresistible! Clambering up part of the 108 Steps - easier said than done but good for one's fitness - I'm keen to introduce Nick to St Michael's and All Angels Church. Not only do we receive a warm handshake from the vicar, we are then offered a fascinating guided tour covering the Savage Chapel, the Breeches Bible (so called because Adam and Eve decided to clothe themselves in the Garden of Eden) and the tomb of Sir John Savage and Katherine Stanley, the couple depicted holding hands which was unusual for the time.
- Bridge 40 (Macclesfield Canal) -
My investigations of the Macclesfield Canal proved a 2023 Rail Rover highlight (even with an overprotective goose to contend with) so we partially repeat the trick this time around, joining the towpath at Buxton Road for the short stretch to Windmill Street. Although only a taster by comparison, this does allow Nick to admire the Old Hovis Mill and marina complex, as well as getting bearings for potential future visits to the Wharf Inn on Brook Street. Alas that doesn't open until half past four but there's plenty of other pub prospects to go at...
- Shameless in RedWillow -
Talking of which, another check on the Castle is nigh on essential - I'm a sucker for a heritage interior so this ticks all of my boxes, especially when there's an Ossett Queen Rat Stout in the offing too. Elsewhere, we enjoy the no-nonsense approach of the Waters Green Tavern (our chosen lunch stop in preference to your standard Wetherspoons stuff), while the Queens is in pre-match footballing mode, serving up bargain Holts Bitter at £3 a pint, you can't beat that. Not that we leave out the modern craft contenders entirely, hence RedWillow on Park Green has us either Wreckless or Shameless, naming no names! Cheers!
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