The cricket season has been up and running for a couple of months with Warwickshire solidly in the mix for County Championship honours (albeit making a complete hash of their T20 Blast campaign). Next up is the away fixture against Yorkshire which gives Mr B and I our long awaited chance to experience seaside cricket at Scarborough...
West Midlands Exploration
Buses and beer, railways and recollections, pubs and photography, canals and cricket: The quest to discover and document the West Midlands and surrounding areas continues...
Thursday, June 18
Bears on Tour: Scarborough
- Scholar's Bar -
To say this is bucket list territory and then some is quite an understatement - Stephen and I have coveted outground cricket in Scarborough for many years, and were infamously denied in 2020 by a small matter of the COVID pandemic. Thankfully there aren't any global health emergencies to stop us this year, although there is heavy Wolverhampton rain to contend with while we wait for our coach to arrive. The journey north involves battling plumes of motorway spray and a soggy stop at Tibshelf Services but Scarborough itself seems drier. We check in, polish off our evening meals and then see about getting a drink or two around the town centre. As such, the Scholars Bar is an itch that needs to be scratched at the earliest opportunity on account of being the reigning three time local Pub of the Year winner. One glance at the range of handpulls and you can see why; Five Towns Black Crunchie Stout has a honeycomb hit hailing from Wakefield as we admire a fine selection of non-league footballing scarves.
- First glimpses of North Marine Road -
The main cricketing action commences on the morning of Friday 12th June at North Marine Road, a venue which has been hosting fixtures since 1863. The ticket office is squeezed between a line of tall guesthouses and the playing field is in a dip below benched terraces - quite a sight for the outground enthusiast. It's filling up rapidly but we navigate the turnstiles, take a seat at the Trafalgar Square End and delightedly note that there are two ice cream vans in attendance. Warwickshire win the toss and elect to field but meaningful breakthroughs are hard to come by. Yorkshire openers Lyth and Luxton seem well set in putting on 102 for the first wicket before the former is despatched for 29, caught behind off Barnard.
- Stephen stakes out the Ice Cream Van -
Almost as important as what's happening on the pitch is the prospect of treats awaiting us at the boundary's edge. Beacon Farm's twin purveyors of dairy delights will see us partaking of their wares each lunchtime, Mr B sticking to his tried and tested vanilla remit while I dabble with flavours of either rum and raisin or cinder toffee. We need the sweetness because it is proving a testing day for the Bears bowling attack; the home side progress to a healthy 386 for 6 by the close, underpinned by a magnificent 167 from Will Luxton (his maiden first class century no less, although on this evidence he'll surely make many more). Handy contributions elsewhere come from Whiteman 55 and Revis 40 while a certain Jonny Bairstow has 49*; followers of the England test side in recent years will know how destructive he can be.
- Chocolate Orange Porter -
As the players head back off to the pavilion, we exit the ground in search of Good Beer Guide plunder although the North Riding Brew Pub is being swarmed by eager topers so we swerve it for now and see what else we can find. Scarborough Borough Council Employees Welfare Club on Dean Road is the kind of timewarp place I dream about discovering and originally was established in 1935 as a bolthole from the local council offices. The sound of snooker balls being potted rivals a BBC Look North news bulletin as I partake of a nice Chocolate Orange Porter, my liking for the dark side unaffected by being away from home. We're not sure how lively Scarborough might get on a Friday night but manage to dodge any party crowds by following up with relaxed drinks in the Scarborough Arms (Peculier Assassin registering as a collaboration between Theakstons and Roosters) and the Golden Ball, Samuel Smith's operating the latter with gorgeous views of the harbour.
- Harbourside Winch -
Talking of the quayside, it is in my sights on the morning of Saturday 13th June whereby blue skies entice me out towards the lighthouse, spotting craft such as 'Puffin' and 'Diana' bobbing about at their berths. Marine Drive takes me around the headland to North Bay although I'd miscalculated how steep the climb would be at the other end. Somewhat breathlessly, I meet Mr B to retake our cricketing seats and watch Yorkshire reach 469 all out. Mr Bairstow makes a bullish 68 and is ably supported by lower order hitting from George Hill and Hasan Ali; as for the Warwickshire bowling attack, there were three wickets apiece for Barnard, Bamber and Manav Suthar, an Indian spinner parachuted in to cover this game and the match at Taunton.
- Breezy and Bracing -
The Warwickshire reply begins with Alex Davies and Dan Mousley both chopping onto their own stumps, things looking wobbly at 38/2. Rob Yates and Sam Hain help steady the ship a little until White Rose pace bowler Jack White busily extracts Hain and Webster in very quick succession: 92/4. Having basked in warm sunshine for most of Friday, suddenly Scarborough takes on a different nature as leaden grey skies and a biting wind match the attritional aspects to the Bears' batting - I'm glad I've got all of my layers on while some other members of the crowd resort to wearing gloves, yes, in the middle of June! Wickets seem to be tumbling in clusters of two today for Yates and Malik succumb to the wiles of Dom Bess's offspin for 65 and 0 respectively. Yates hasn't looked at his fluent best but still grinds out a valuable half century, a feat being matched by captain Barnard who is 60 not out come the close of play.
- North Riding Biscoff Stout -
225 for 7 means Warwickshire are very much in arrears and have it all to do to avoid defeat. Scavenging seagulls swoop in for leftover chips once the spectators drift off home, although a fair few of our fellow sporting enthusiasts have the same idea as us and drift off to the North Riding Brew Pub instead. It isn't quite as packed as it was on Friday night hence we give it a whirl, rewarded with a tasty slurp of Biscoff Stout which carries implied hints of caramelised biscuit brands. Some of the ales sold here are brewed on the premises whereas others are brought over from North Riding's main base in Snainton, you can't get much more local than that! It's too busy to fully appreciate the building's 1930s hotel flourishes but I am impressed, and the same applies when we track down the Alma, a superb backstreet boozer which is the sister establishment to the Frigate micropub. One peek inside and I'm hooked by 1970s style square furniture, full length Magnet Ales advertising panels, a bumpy old floor trodden over by countless shoes, and a cask ale range that excites me, resulting in a great glass of Maxim's Sansom Ale referencing a Vaux Sunderland mainstay. Top quaffing!
- South Cliff Gardens -
Sunday 14th June will be our last day at the cricket, our coach itinerary meaning we won't see the end of the game. My morning constitutional takes me by way of South Cliff Gardens and the elegance of Scarborough's Spa suite, a theatre and conferencing venue which had hosted the Trefoil Guild's annual meeting for former Girl Guides, some of whom have been staying in our hotel. Trooping back across to North Marine Road once more, Stephen is hopeful that the Bears can mount a rearguard action albeit Warwickshire are only able to add another 38 runs before being dismissed for 263. Ed Barnard held the second half of the innings together well, ending on an undefeated 83*, but Hasan Ali (3/50) and the accurate George Hill (2/47) were able to mop up the tail without too much bother.
- Mr Beardsmore surveys the outfield -
Despite engineering a first innings lead of 206 runs, Yorkshire prefer to bat again themselves rather than enforcing the follow on. Will Luxton certainly cashes in, making a flowing 69 to add to his earlier feastings, but there are bowling inroads too. At one stage the score is 115/5 after Oliver Hannon-Dalby finds his stump radar, only for Bairstow and Hill to combine with forceful strokeplay that cements the home side's ascendancy. A declaration at 246/6 sets a nominal target of 453 for Warwickshire to win but survival is really the object now; Yates and Davies are going steadily second time around until the former perishes, edging Hill to slip. The game is in the balance at 44/1 as we relocate to the Albert, keeping half an eye on the Germany v Curacao FIFA World Cup happenings. Our Monday journey home is uneventfully smooth, Mr B undertaking regular scorechecks as Warwickshire graft out the day to secure a hard-fought draw. This maintains mine and Stephen's record of never being beaten in Yorkshire. Cheers!
Wednesday, June 10
A June Jumble
Are 'birthday weeks' even a thing now? If so, mine has been a very busy one. Besides deviating to Droitwich with the Chip Foundation as previously documented, there are National Trust nuggets, library-related museum musings and a beer festival over in Shakespeare Country to tell you all about...
- Bookworm Bygrave enjoys the Rose Border -
My birthday itself occurred on Monday 1st June and was spent in the company of Bookworm Bygrave at Dudmaston Hall, a National Trust property near Bridgnorth. The estate has been home to the same family for over 900 years, albeit the lineage hasn't always been especially direct over that time. We begin in the Kitchen Garden perusing species of potato, beetroot and quince, then enjoy a lakeside walk. Perhaps the most spectacular feature at this time of year is the Rose Border, comprising 38 different rose varieties layered up to give a gorgeous riot of colour and perfume. Some of the floral names are tributes to royalty or the great and good of high society - I don't know what he's done to deserve it but Thomas a Becket has two roses in his honour while Gertrude Jekyll and Abraham Darby are namechecked horticulturally too.
- Coquettish Fan Fun -
In echoes of last year's visit to Moseley Old Hall, Emily holds the edge when it comes to quoits by proving rather adept at hurling her hoops across the lawn - an unexpected talent perhaps?Licking my wounds (again), we see what secrets the big house is in the mood to reveal, and it is very much apparent that it remains an active family home. There's an informality to some of the current photographs dotted around that contrasts with the assembled historical portraiture, and we particularly enjoy mooching around the Library with its learned tomes on themes of nature, environmental conservation and country sports. The upper floor also hosts important modern art collections featuring pieces by Barbara Hepworth, Anthony Twentyman and Henry Moore. The 'Fanology: Objects of Beauty' exhibition allows my hitherto rarely-seen flirtatious streak to come out, although I perhaps haven't mastered all of the subtle gestures quite yet!
- Mitchells & Butlers Dray Lorry -
To Tuesday 2nd June and we're still fixing our eyes firmly upon yesteryear with a return to the Black Country Living Museum in Dudley. More of the 1940s to 1960s New Town has opened since I last came and a vehicular addition is a lovely 1949 M&B blue delivery truck loaded with Cape Hill barrels; this was transferred from the National Brewery Heritage Trust for ongoing preservation last year. Elsewhere, the showpiece Semi Detached Houses are more developed now hence veg patch gardens with runner bean poles and a salvaged shed containing hobby printing equipment. You can go upstairs for Liverpool and West Brom football squad photos, plus handbags and wardrobes - I love the reproduction packaging from brands such as Heinz and Cadburys. A 1968 FA Cup Final programme is tucked behind a mantelpiece carriage clock and the costumed character owner clutches a tobacco pipe as part of getting into his role.
- Those New-Fangled Paperbacks -
Today's star attraction (as far as Emily and I are concerned) is now operational having been painstakingly moved brick by brick from Holly Hall. Woodside Library is set in 1963 when mass market paperbacks were becoming a thing. Disclaimers inside books advise that items might offend modern sensibilities but it is important not to airbrush certain topics or authors out of history completely. Nearly 7,000 donations were received when stocking up the library which a) far exceeded expectations and b) means that there's a lot of work to be done cataloguing these on old-fashioned index cards. Highlights are Leisure Corner, green period table lamps and a dedicated children's room showcasing Sooty annuals. The museum's two pubs then earn themselves a visit each - Miss Bygrave being rather taken by sawdust sprinklings at the Bottle & Glass - before we get a glimpse into 1940s grocery habits courtesy of the Halesowen & Hasbury Co-op Store; this is based on a shop which once stood on Stourbridge Road and is pitched at a time when self-service was a retail innovation. Household brands such as Rinso, Horlicks or Kellogg's feel familiar and I’ve even spotted a plate of mock chocolate eclair cakes that look rather tempting - grab a basket and pick out ingredients for Granny's sponge recipe.
- The Woolf meets a Black Dragon -
Did someone mention a Beer Festival? Ah yes, that would be the Stratford-upon-Avon one as held at the town's racecourse which saw Emily, Jane and I attending for some Shakespearean supping on Saturday 6th June. The ales actually take a back seat for me this time around in favour of joining Miss Woolf in her cider scrutineering, resulting in highly appealing halves of 'Ark' (hailing from the Fleece in Bretforton) and 'Malvern Gold', both of which are classed as medium dry. Two local Warwickshire ciders also require my considered analysis with Hogan's supplying the tannic punch of 'French Revelation' - I like this a lot - while Siblings 'Jiminee Dry' comes from a Snitterfield-based producer I'd not encountered previously. Miss Bygrave is our nominal designated driver, availing herself of Apple Tango, whereas Jane concentrates mostly on her personal favourites such as Gwynt y Ddraig's Black Dragon and Lilley's Bee Sting.
- The Dirty Duck -
After the festival fun, a steady Evesham Road stroll brings us into Stratford town centre where the local bookshops are on high alert for potential custom. Jane's delight at discovering a Star Trek Klingon phrasebook is very much evident while the Bookworm lives up to her nickname care of a Bygrave bargain buy - even I get in on the act by picking out an Alton Douglas title, 'Memories of Coventry'. The Fourteas brasserie on Sheep Street is a delightful place at which to partake of cake and listen to evocative sound of Glenn Miller, revelling in the 1940s theme. Two prime Stratford pubs with theatrical connections bring the metaphorical curtain down on the week: the Dirty Duck can be found on Waterside and has an Actor's Bar crammed with the portraits of RSC thespians, then the Garrick is reputedly the oldest watering hole in town. A pint in each - Brightside Pale Ale and North Cotswold Stretton Striker - seals the deal. Cheers!
Thursday, June 4
The Chip Foundation Does Droitwich
Sometimes the days that stick in your mind the most are the ones that don't quite go to plan but you enjoy them immensely regardless. The Chip Foundation's dance around Droitwich is one that could well linger long in the memory because of missing buses, morning downpours and unexpected pub closures, but we'll keep on smiling whatever the Exploration Gods might throw our way...
- An Artistic Welcome -
Trip Log: Wednesday 3rd June 2026 brings a Worcestershire outing that has been arranged to celebrate my latest birthday. As guest of honour and chief organiser it's imperative I attend but the number 10 bus is conspicuous by its absence and I'm going to be late for the train. Heavy Perton rain is the last thing I need when traipsing to Tettenhall Wood but the other chaps have at least assembled as instructed, collectively catching the 10:50 down from Birmingham. By a process of on-the-hoof recalibration, I progress via Kidderminster to belatedly reach Droitwich at 11:52, greeted by my patient Chip colleagues and an interesting railway station mural which adorns the Hall Brothers accident recovery garage on Union Lane. Kissing couples, lively deer and racing cars all feature as I apologise for being delayed. Let the trip proper commence!
- What remains of the Raven -
Droitwich is a spa town in the Wychavon district of Worcestershire and is a noted site of salt production, with rock salt and brine having been extracted since Roman times. We skip over onto Ombersley Street as our gateway into the town centre, spotting the police station and a selection of 'Hair by...' stylists along the way. There's a considerable promotional presence for the Rik Mayall Comedy Festival, now in its second year and a worthy tribute to the legendary performer of alternative comedy who was born and raised locally. Victoria Square ordinarily would be an attractive spot with the town's library close at hand, but the crumbling mass of what used to be the Raven Hotel is simply inescapable. A handsome timbered building that dated from the 16th century, it had been in a deteriorating condition for some years prior to suffering a devastating fire last August. The site is currently fully fenced off on safety grounds amidst hope of a community preservation project although restoration looks to be a huge task.
- Monarch's Way for His Majesty -
The Raven's sad status means part of St Andrew's Street is closed off so we nip through the adjacent shopping precinct to reach our first pub of the day. The Talbot is owned by Craddocks of Stourbridge and boasts an impressive townhouse frontage at the Old Town Hall end of High Street; internal signwriting suggests it used to be a Hanson's affair and the layout is pleasingly traditional with a front bar, rear restaurant and a curious slightly bulging central passageway. One glance at the ale range means Nick and I immediately home in on Monarch's Way - what else but that for our resident royal? - as a tasty smooth bitter. Scatter cushions featuring pet photographs are a novelty as we chat about cricketing prospects, forthcoming holidays and what our Mastermind specialist subjects would be. I'd probably opt for pop music of the 1950s and 1960s with Ken on FA Cup finals from the same era and Nick tackling the English Civil War, which just leaves Mr B... I'm not sure an encyclopedic knowledge of Warwickshire's recent batting collapses counts somehow!
- Stephen meets Spa Man -
One of Droitwich's most charming aspects is its so-called 'Wonky High Street' where buildings lean at strange angles, the effect of subsidence caused by salt mining. We admire some of the crooked doorways before proceeding at Ken's request to nearby Lido Park, home to an open air saltwater swimming pool which first opened in 1935. The water is heated to a pleasant 23 degrees (positively Mediterranean!) and is fed by natural brine, although we aren't tempted to go for a dip ourselves. Instead we investigate the wider park, meaning Stephen can make the acquaintance of the 'Spa Man' diving sculpture. The park has a fine bandstand (which is being used for some comedy festival performances) and offers fishing provision at Herriott's Pool; Droitwich's cricket and tennis clubs are also in the vicinity, a proper sporting enclave.
- Canalside Chips -
Lunch is in order although my preferred option of the Gardeners Arms on Vines Lane doesn't appear to be open. The Queens Fish Bar can ably step into the breach for our assorted orders involving roe, pies, battered sausage and even a lesser-seen fishcake. We munch these spoils at Vines Park beside the restored Droitwich Canal, albeit our chosen bench gets subjected to galeforce gusts and I have to scamper sharply to retrieve sheets of blown-away chip paper. A statue of St Richard - a 13th century Bishop of Chichester - takes pride of place along with a mosaic documenting Roman salt extraction activities. The tesserae spell out the inscription "Sal Sapit Omnia - Salt Flavours All" with Stephen agreeing that it augments his chips nicely.
- The Railway Inn -
A gentle stroll along the water's edge allows glimpses of Bridges 17, 18 and 19, all of which are short swingbridges carrying footpaths that link to the Saltway main road (although we note that No. 18 is locked out of use and not in the best of condition). Netherwich Basin is a pretty marina mooring base with narrowboats shimmering in the sunshine; the canal effectively runs parallel to the River Salwarpe at this point whereby they both cut a swathe across Vines Park. Emerging onto Kidderminster Road, we make the Railway Inn our second drinking port of call, enticed by the locomotive illustration adorning the pub's exterior. Alas we get a sense of things going through the motions here - we're the only customers and any real ale they did have has run out, resulting in halves of Guinness, Worthingtons and full fat Coca Cola. Daytime telly can't quite compensate for the underlying lack of atmosphere, as much as our entertaining perusals of the Rik Mayall festival programme make a valiant attempt to enliven matters.
- Mr May after a makeover? -
Onwards we trot via a Hampton Road underpass which connects directly onto Friar Street. Two prime watering holes await us within yards of each other, both of them ripe for revisiting after Nick and I first sampled them way back in May 2014. First up is the Hop Pole, a Good Beer Guide mainstay where I'm delighted to see Bathams is a permanent fixture, not just the Best Bitter but their Mild too. I'm feeling in a Mildish mood actually and the resultant pint is an object lesson in how to serve ale perfectly. Where the Railway suffered for lack of patronage, there are no such qualms here; nearly all of the tables are already taken so we squeeze into a raised section watched over by a large cuddly gorilla and another soft toy shrouded in a mass of comedic curly hair - is it a sloth, is it a meerkat, is it Ken in disguise? Who can tell!
- The Old Cock Inn -
When you haven't set foot inside an establishment for twelve years, it's tricky to gauge how much you expect to remember but the Old Cock Inn does evoke a nice sense of familiarity. My archive notes make mention of an ecclesiastical-styled main window and that is evidently still intact (and came from St Nicholas's Church apparently) while the ale range has branched out beyond the Marston's stable to include more guest brewers. Hobsons' Champion Mild is my pick, doing my bit to keep the traditional style alive, and we gather in a cockerel-themed front snug trying to outdo each other in the innuendo stakes. There are at least four different zones within the overall layout, all really nicely decorated, with a boardgame selection available for any dice-rolling enthusiasts. Having first been licensed in 1712, this is a beguiling hostelry in one of the oldest parts of Droitwich so together with the Hop Pole we are most impressed.
- A Rifleman's Finale -
Maintaining such standards will be a tough ask but I'm optimistic that the Arch Rivals micropub could get close, only to discover it isn't open yet. A vinyl records theme is detectable if peering through the windows but there are no signs of life and I'll just have to save it for a future jaunt. Deflated but not totally downhearted, we know the Riflemans Arms back by the railway station is an option having toyed with it as a meeting point earlier - it claims to start trading at 11am but it was closer to midday in this particular instance. Anyway, it's a typical sidestreet Banks's number with a plain bar side and slightly more comfortable lounge, a few sepia photos of the Royal Brine Baths and a handy train departures screen - I've been in better, I've also been in much worse. My closing tipple is a toss-up between Amber and Wainwright Gold with the former just about edging it, albeit sadly not brewed in Wolverhampton anymore. The 17:56 train is ideal in that it takes HRH direct to Warwick Parkway while the rest of us hop off at Smethwick Galton Bridge for our Wolverhampton connections. A testing day but good fun!
Tuesday, June 2
Lost Pubs from the WME Archives #44
There are myriad factors influencing why a pub may close its doors for good. Changing societal drinking habits, local demographic shifts, greedy developers wanting land or property for other uses, the cost of living crisis, nearby competition, retirement of long-term tenants, the list could go on and on. Some of these reasons - and probably more besides - might apply to this quintet of bygone boozers, all of which in relatively recent memory used to call Birmingham their home...
- King Edward VII -
One possible cause I didn't mention in the preamble there is road widening, for that's what ultimately precipitated the demise of the King Edward VII in Aston. Perched on the corner of Lichfield Road and Aston Hall Road, this was a highly distinctive local landmark so the fact it was sacrificed to make space for a wider carriageway and boring industrial units is a bone of contention. Mr D9 and I called by in February 2013 having heard that demolition was on the cards, and by 2015 the pub was lamentably gone forever.
- The Bromford -
By contrast, I never had the pleasure (or should I say experience) of drinking in the Bromford, a tavern that would have been a familiar sight for regular passengers on the Outer Circle bus route between Washwood Heath and Hodge Hill. A building of some architectural merit, it nevertheless was consigned to history and a fire in September 2014 wouldn't have helped. Following demolition in 2015, the site has become a base for the Heart of Birmingham Vocational College complete with a Community Hub facility.
- The Gunmakers Arms -
Not to be confused with its namesake in the Gun Quarter (which at time of writing is happily still trading), the Gunmakers Arms in Lozells is our third Brummie victim for this post. Small but inviting, it carried some Banks's branding at the time of this wintry 2013 picture, and I've fond memories of a Hub Marketing visit in October 2015 when it had a throwback vibe that likely hadn't changed much since the 1970s. It was up for sale at that juncture and the premises would subsequently lie empty and boarded up for several years - such a shame!
- The Midland Tavern -
And now for a Duddeston diversion. Erskine Street was the highly unpromising setting for the Midland Tavern, nestled close to a railway line and seemingly surrounded by small workshops and pallet storage yards. It looked in a bad way - especially the roof - in my picture although remarkably was repaired to become a Shisha Lounge for a period. HS2 developments have now claimed much of this end of the street, all part of the march of progress.
- The Stonehouse -
Let's conclude matters over in California shall we? No not that one - the WME budget doesn't stretch to daytrips in Los Angeles or San Francisco - but rather that little pocket of Brum which lingers between Weoley Castle and Woodgate Valley. The district was actually named after a pub, the California Inn which stood in the vicinity of Barnes Hill and Alwold Road, but this post is more concerned with the Stonehouse (formerly of Stonehouse Lane). An impressively large roadhouse, it was demolished circa 2014 with housing now occupying the site.
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