It's Saturday 3rd February 2024 and another round of train strikes mean I'm not inclined to be relying on public transport during my next spot of explorational exercise. The towpath of the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal seems more enticing instead, giving me chance to file my first Waterways Walk posting of the year...
- Near Castlecroft Bridge -
Much of what I'll be covering this trip is very familiar territory, although sometimes it's simply nice to get out of the house and put some miles into your legs. Picking my way along nature reserve paths through Smestow Valley, I join the Staffs & Worcs at Wightwick Mill Lock a little west of Compton. The playing fields of Smestow Academy hug the far bank as I proceed in turn past Wightwick Lock and Wightwick Bridge (Windmill Lane) to enter South Staffordshire countryside beyond the Mermaid moorings base. Faint wisps of blue sky gradually get edged out by cloud but it's pleasantly mild for the time of year, making for good walking weather as Castlecroft and Mops Farm Bridges are next for my attentions.
- Something Stumpish at Dimmingsdale -
Bidding good morning to the usual mix of dog walkers and cyclists, I arrive at Dimmingsdale where any lock happenings are studiously scrutinised by one of those stump characters you see dotted all along the towpath here. Dimmingsdale Bridge appears to be undergoing yet more repairs so I wonder if it has suffered from another traffic collision - it always seems so susceptible to having its brickwork part-demolished by careless drivers! Sankey's fishing pool and Ebstree Lock offer additional camera opportunities before I reacquaint myself with Awbridge Lock not far from Trysull - alas I won't be sampling The Bell today.
- Bratch Top Lock Cottage -
I am however intending on fully inspecting one of my favourite canal locations anywhere in the country, namely the staircase sequence that is Bratch Locks. Three conjoined chambers make for an ingenious example of James Brindley's engineering that has served as something of a tourist attraction visited by Black Country folk over the centuries. Top Lock has a charming cottage for company then Middle Lock is topped by a distinctive octagonal tollhouse complete with semi-circular arched windows. The canal first opened in 1772 while the tollhouse itself dates from about 1800, meaning you've easily got 200+ years of history at your disposal. Bratch Pumping Station is beguiling in its own right, built by the Bilston Corporation in a fairytale ornate Gothic fashion and currently owned (if not used) by Severn Trent Water.
- Bumblehole Lock -
Beyond The Bratch the canal hugs Wombourne's western extremities via Bumblehole Lock (with steep slanted parapet and well-worn whitewashed keeper's house) and Houndel Bridge (which stands beside the Round Oak pub). Giggetty Wharf is my prompt to exit the towpath in readiness for some village investigations although the Wom Brook is in the vicinity too for fans of watercourses in general. I reckon I've walked just shy of five miles so far, taking me two and a bit hours although you'd have to factor frequent photo stops into the timings there.
- The Church of the Venerable Bede -
I know Wombourne pretty well thanks to several previous forays but there are undiscovered aspects for me to get to grips with. The Church of the Venerable Bede is a good case in point, based on Giggetty Lane in a building that dates to 1957 (hence being much younger than its sister church St Benedict Biscop). A block of shops on Common Road corner include Bromley Butchers and a Boots Pharmacy, then Sytch Lane has a lawn cemetery and Blakeley Heath Primary School, neither of which I can remember ever noticing until now. Greenhill combines with Rookery Road as I home in on Battlefield Hill which may or may not be the site where the 910 AD Battle of Tettenhall took place - its exact location is subject to much conjecture!
- The Old Bush -
I'm in the market for a pint or two to ward off the risk of feeling thirsty, albeit my initial target (the Red Lion) isn't open yet. Not to worry, the Old Bush is only around the corner so I'll be able to assess what Black Country Ales have done with the place. At first glance it doesn't look too different from its years under Banks's stewardship, but I think they've opened it out more inside and the range of real ales stocked has increased significantly. I obtain a Little Eaton Old Mill Stout then struggle to find a spare table - it appears that the whole world and his wife have made this their Saturday lunchtime Wombourne watering hole of choice. A stool by a shelf comes to my rescue so I've somewhere to park my gigantic cob (cheese and onion with a healthy slathering of mustard), listen to Lonnie Donegan's 'Cumberland Gap' and polish off a second ale in the form of Beowulf's Chasewater Pale Bitter.
- Enville Excellence at the Red Lion -
Judging by the sheer amount of custom, the Old Bush is definitely a hit and come 2pm the Red Lion should have unbolted its doors - oh good, it has! Nestled almost unnoticed below the A449 dual carriageway, I've had a soft spot for this old inn ever since Nick and I dropped by years ago for a high class slurp of Enville Ginger. The homeliness makes it in my eyes, helped by a 60s Soul soundtrack and the prospect of Bostin' Scratchuns for a tasty treat - one of the Lion's regular canine visitors seems equally as enthused about the scratchings, cue much whimpering. Enville Ale (minus any gingery flavourings) is spot on this time around so I account for a couple of those prior to a number 16 bus ride home. Cheers!
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