Chip Foundation birthdays roll around roughly every couple of months between April and October so now it is Stephen's turn to have a special trip convened in his honour. Last year's equivalent outing had seen us happily hanging around in Hanley, and more Potteries platters are on the menu for this trip too...
- Tunstall Market -
It's Saturday 28th October 2023 (just two days before Stephen's big day) as we congregate aboard the 10:26 train from Wolverhampton bound for Stoke-on-Trent. A quick interchange in and out of Hanley involves the number 23 and 3A buses, the latter heading for the curiously-named Talke Pits wherever that may be. Our opening destination is Tunstall, the only one of the six amalgamated Potteries towns that I'd never previously had the pleasure of visiting. It's an interesting if somewhat deprived place, comprising a rudimentary rundown High Street with Tower Square as a more appealing focal point. Getting some initial bearings, we note Tunstall Market (which operates on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays) while The Boulevard hosts the remnants of the former Public Library and Swimming Pool facilities, both sadly disused.
- Spooky Stephen in the Oddfellows Arms -
The northernmost of the six towns, Tunstall is served by the A50 trunk road and has the A500 relatively close at hand too. The aforementioned Tower Square is where we find more prime landmarks including a clock tower (erected through public subscription and unveiled in 1893) which faces the Renaissance-styled municipal edifice of the Town Hall. There are a clutch of pubs in the vicinity, such as the Barrel, the Sneyd Arms and the Tavern but our choice is the Oddfellows Arms because of its connections to the Beartown Brewery. They're clearly getting into the Halloween spirit here, hence ghouls, spiders and pumpkins aplenty, while Stephen gamely grapples with some cobweb-covered grandfather clocks. Nick isn't quite convinced about the Beartown Bitter but we all appreciate the warm welcome from the regulars.
- October's offering from the Wedgwood Institute -
Backtracking along the 3/3A bus route, we take a short hop into Burslem which is recognised as being Stoke-on-Trent's 'Mother Town' due to its proud pottery production heritage. Josiah Wedgwood was born here in 1730 and the local Institute bears his name - we marvel at its fascinating terracotta frontage complete with various panels representing zodiac signs and the different months of the year. Directly across Queen Street is the Burslem School of Art, itself a fine building dating from 1905, while the architectural ensemble is further augmented by the George Hotel and Swan Square (location of the town's war memorial).
- Wedgwood Printing Works -
Evidence of Burslem's industrial pedigree is seemingly all around us, from factory facades to bottle kilns. Edward Challinor's Overhouse Manufactory catches my eye, as indeed does the 'Ceramic Transfers' lettering on what used to be the Wedgwood Printing Works. The Town Hall is topped by a golden angel that was referenced in the novels of Arnold Bennett, whereas the Royal Stafford company continues to produce pottery in the heart of Burslem today. Our visit has coincided with the Port Vale versus Cheltenham football fixture which means several of the pubs are operating a 'home fans only' admittance policy - can we get a drink somewhere?
- Tackling Titanic Tipples in the Bulls Head -
Two classic taverns on St John's Square will thankfully come to our aid, the first of which is the Duke William (looking out towards a vintage Ideal Homes shopfront). Vocation's Bread and Butter beer drinks very nicely as we enjoy more spooktacular accoutrements, Stephen nervously sitting below a giant hairy mock black spider. A diminutive barmaid makes us feel very much at home and the pub interior has a selection of nice rooms to explore. Further along the street is the Bull's Head, flagship outlet of the Titanic Brewery which is absolutely rammed at first glance but empties out closer to kick-off time. Plum Porter Grand Reserve at source is a rare treat and very powerful as befits its 6.5% abv; Ken takes his mind off the Blues score by reading Daily Mirror articles about the Titanic's fateful voyage.
- Wellers 'Skull-duggery'? -
Timing our exit so as to intercept the number 98 bus, we proceed to Newcastle-under-Lyme via Longport, Porthill Bank and Wolstanton. A late lunch is required, necessitating a pit stop in the Arnold Machin Wetherspoons (named after the chap who designed the Queen's portrait for use on British coins and postage stamps) - Stephen and I gobble down our 10oz gammons whereas Nick predictably comes over all fishy and Ken has a brunch. Suitably nourished, we check out Wellers on Pepper Street as a round-fronted microbar with a neat selection of cask ales. Yorkshire Blonde, Salopian Lemon Dream and Oakham's 3 Witches are all confirmed to be on good form while Mr B Junior has more skulls and spiders for company.
- The Holy Inadequate -
There's one essential final watering hole we wish to sample before this particular Potteries sojourn is over. The Holy Inadequate in Etruria is the establishment in question, and is highly regarded in CAMRA circles for regularly being in award contention as well as brewing its own on-site beers. With a helping hand from the 4A bus, we troop into the lovely L-shaped bar and gleefully partake of the Inadequate Citra Pale Ale, fresh and lively and full of hoppy goodness. Ken has a read of the Towpath Talk canal newspaper while Nick has never been so pleased to be inadequate in his entire life - there's superb quality out there if you know where to look! All that remains is a very tight Hanley connection but we catch the 25 with the aid of a sprint, and the 18:26 train home to Wolverhampton behaves itself. Cheers!
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