The WME family holiday for 2023 is to be a summertime seaside escape to Sussex, with Bognor Regis on standby to host us for a few days. This is one part of the country I've never been to before - the closest I've got until now is Brighton and Hove - so it should make for an exciting break...
- Bognor Regis Seafront -
Four days of full-on fun begin with Monday 5th July and the long journey down from the West Midlands to the South Coast. An early start pays dividends for avoiding the worst of any traffic snarl-ups and we arrive in the West Sussex seaside resort of Bognor Regis just after midday. We can't check into our accommodation until 4pm so we can get leisurely acquainted with the town and its seafront attractions; Bognor was first developed by Sir Richard Hotham during the late C18th but the coming of the railways in the 1860s brought increased popularity with holidaymakers and daytrippers. Among the landmarks helping us to get our bearings are a Butlin's camp, the pier, and several references to Reynolds' family furniture business.
- Bognor Regis Station -
Indeed, the Reynolds name seems almost inescapable and they have one emporium directly opposite Bognor Regis railway station. The train terminus is currently encased in scaffolding so I can't fully appreciate its Edwardian elegance but the facility sits at the end of the short branch line down from Barnham. Over the road, the Picturedrome Cinema is undergoing its own renovation works but still seems to be showing movies despite the upheaval. Thoughts of refreshment have us seeking out the Hatters Inn, admittedly hardly the best Wetherspoons showcase we've ever come across - even the carpet isn't especially exciting and rivals the tables for general stickiness. Hopefully better ale experiences are to come this week...
- Comic Considerations in Southsea -
To Tuesday 6th July and I've got my heart set on visiting the historic naval city of Portsmouth, hence changing at Barnham and catching the train westwards into Hampshire via Chichester, Havant, Hilsea and Fratton. Portsmouth & Southsea Station serves the city centre as well as the neighbouring district of Southsea, an attractive place in its own right. My initial wanderings introduce me to Clarence Pier and the Isle of Wight hovercraft while Southsea Esplanade is dominated by the terracotta edifice of the Queens Hotel. Pubwise my star find is the Barley Mow on Castle Road, cheekily adorned with mock comic strips attesting to its fine real ale reputation. An unspoiled heritage interior with bar billiards tables and quirky puppets makes for a memorable setting in which to partake of Sherfield Brewery's Pioneer Stout. Lovely!
- Round Tower, Old Portsmouth -
The afternoon weather is mizzly and drizzly but that only adds to the atmosphere as I stroll along Portsmouth's historic waterfront, imagining bawdy days of yore when sailors would have frequented the old taverns in search of liquor and illicit company. Round Tower and the Long Curtain Battery (with its moat) are part of the defensive formations as I investigate features that might have been familiar to Vice Admiral Nelson and other seafaring heroes. Hoping not to be press-ganged myself, I reach Portsmouth Point which is otherwise referred to as 'Spice Island' because of the nefarious spicy activities that would have occurred here, the area being notorious as a place where prostitutes once plied their trade.
- Ferry Spotting at Bath Square -
Steering clear of any such mischief, I concentrate on watching ferry manoeuvrings courtesy of the Brittany and Wightlink fleet, Bath Square commanding great views from the southeastern corner of Portsmouth Harbour. Two pubs are worthy of mention: the Still & West is a Fuller's operation where I can quietly sup Gales HSB when looking out across the waves towards Gosport, whereas the Spice Island Inn was formerly known as the Union Tavern and still carries fascinating tiled signage for Brickwoods Brilliant Ales and Stout. Greene King are currently overseeing proceedings here so a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord is in order, ensconced upstairs in the Smugglers Room keeping tabs on the Spinnaker Tower.
- River Arun at Littlehampton -
After those Hampshire happenings, the third day of the holiday focuses solely upon Sussex. The 700 bus is a long-distance route that in theory connects Portsmouth and Brighton, albeit via interchanges at Chichester and Littlehampton; we cover the relatively short stretch from Bognor to the latter via Flansham Park. Littlehampton is situated at the mouth of the River Arun and therefore boasts an inviting seafront as well as working riverside scenery - I'm particularly interested in the boatyards by the red footbridge near the Steam Packet pub. Sustenance in the form of a large traditional breakfast is obtained from the George Inn (a better JDW encounter than the Hatters, that's for sure) and I make time to include a little amble along Littlehampton Pier and the pebble-laden East Beach.
- Basketmakers Arms, Brighton -
Wednesday afternoon sees me venturing further eastwards to the seaside metropolis that is Brighton. It has been nearly eleven years since I last set foot in the city but the North Laine cultural quarter is as vibrant and welcoming as ever, awash with street art and bohemian discoveries around every corner. Top target as far as I'm concerned is the Basketmakers Arms, a traditional boozer nestled away on Gloucester Road. Dark Star Brewery's American Pale Ale slakes my thirst amongst a plethora of cigar tins, etched mirrors and enamel adverts while the pub is a hive of activity both inside and out. After snaffling a few more pictures - including some of the Heart & Hand on North Road - I catch my return train to Littlehampton along the West Coastway Line via Hove, Shoreham-by-Sea and Worthing.
- Chichester Canal Basin -
Where has the week gone? All of a sudden it's Thursday 6th July and the last full day of our holiday sees us being charmed by Chichester. The number 700 bus is again on hand to form the necessary connection and we're soon surveying West Sussex's county town complete with Roman references and ancient architecture. Before I get to grips with the cathedral or other such delights, I seek out a section of the Chichester Canal as an inland waterway that provided important navigation links for the city's development. These days the canal basin is popular for school trips and pleasure cruises while the towpath forms a four mile-long ribbon of greenery out towards the marina at Birdham. I get as far as the Selsey Tramway Bridge before retracing my footsteps, saying hello to swans, moorhens and coots along the way.
- Chichester Cross -
Chichester's bus and railway stations are in close proximity and there's a Stagecoach depot to grab my attention too. The Pallants form a warren of townhouses at the heart of Chichester life for several centuries, but they get very much upstaged by the Grade I-listed magnificence of Chichester Cross which marks the intersection of the city's principal streets. Octagonal in design and constructed from Caen stone, the cross has acted as an important meeting point since medieval times (circa 1501 after being gifted by Bishop Story as a place where poorer people could sell their wares). Bright sunshine encourages me to photograph the structure from a variety of suitable angles - that's my muse for the morning sorted!
- Chichester Cathedral -
Another Wetherspoons feed - this time courtesy of the Dolphin & Anchor as based in part of a much larger former hotel building - prepares me for even more of a history fix, as firstly we call into the Novium Museum to learn about Chichester's rich Roman heritage (including seeing the remains of a ruined bath house). Chichester Cathedral then rightfully takes centre stage, assisted by its Bell Tower and the beautiful environs of the Bishop's Palace Gardens. The grounds are hosting an art illustrators event so it's interesting to see people going about their sketches and taking inspiration from such a timeless setting. A quick pint or two care of the Hole in the Wall (Big Smoke Brewery) and the Park Tavern (a deep and resinous glass of Gales HSB) precedes the bus ride back to Bognor, and on Friday 7th we came home.
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