Lichfield with Towpath Turpin

It's not for nothing that we occasionally refer to Nick as 'Towpath Turpin', because he's equally as enthusiastic about inland waterways as I am. One lost line His Royal Majesty has never explored however is the Lichfield Canal, a navigation I've developed quite a fascination about in recent years. Two previous springtime visits had given me an idea of its ongoing restoration and now it's time to see how things are progressing...

- Boley Park Shopping Centre -

Saturday 15th April 2023 brings with it good walking weather as we meet in readiness for the 10:36 Cross City service heading north to Lichfield. Arriving in the City of the Three Spires just after 11 o'clock, we initially ignore the main centre in favour of heading eastwards towards the Boley Park estate via Station Road and Sturgeons Hill (the latter does not offer any sightings of former SNP leader Nicola, much to Nick's relief). Boley Park was built during the late 1970s and early 1980s with its focal point being a shopping parade which contains a Co-op store plus a health and fitness gym, a chip shop and a pharmacy. 

- Towpath Turpin's Turnpike Tipple -

Also part of the precinct fabric is the Turnpike pub, established in 1984 and very much in the flatpack vein you'd expect from that time. The name presumably is a nod to the pub's Ryknild Street address and its Roman origins, although the modern A38 nearby takes the traffic strain these days. Marston's have worked hard to liven up what might otherwise have been quite a dull interior, hence there are Donald Duck references, news screens and brightly-upholstered dining booths. The cask ale choice boils down to Wainwright or Pedigree so we plump for the Pedi (we are in Staffordshire after all) by way of a 'turnpike tipple', although what exactly any historic highwaymen may have partaken of remains a matter of conjecture.

- Darnford Lift Bridge (from afar) -

Darnford Lane has been designated as our chosen access point for the Lichfield Canal this time around, although it turns out that the towpath is fenced off due to construction works. We therefore have to negotiate a brief section of the adjacent Darnford Moors Golf Club in order to gain our desired views of Darnford Lift Bridge, seemingly accompanied by an entourage of JCB diggers. The bridge was installed back in 1997 where the towpath is intended to switch banks; beyond this point the line continues to Cappers Lane - itself subject to transformation due to HS2 - and thence to Huddlesford Junction. 

- Horse & Jockey -

Retracing our footsteps to Darnford Lane once more, we seek out Heath Road past Lichfield's rugby union ground and the Friary Lawn Tennis Club. Our next spot of refreshment comes at the Horse and Jockey on the A51 Tamworth Road at Freeford. Half of the pub is dedicated to dining while the other half is given over to drinkers so we make our way into the public bar for respective halves of Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Draught Bass. Wallpaper possibly taken from antique zoological sketchbooks provides the backdrop to our canal-related ruminations, then added entertainment comes from two canine visitors tying their leads in knots before rapidly draining their water bowls dry - they must be even thirstier than we are!

- Borrowcop Locks -

From the very edges of Lichfield we weave our way into the city centre as Nick undertakes his first ever inspection of Borrowcop Locks. The combined obstacles of the A51 and A38 present a huge challenge in terms of one day fully linking the restored canal together; nevertheless it is heartening to see part of the locks returned to water while bricklaying volunteers attend to the retaining walls below a traditional BCN canal cottage (No. 265). Cricket Lane is another potential crossing site and Gallows Wharf at London Road looks increasingly complete with every fresh visit I make. Towpath Turpin naturally gets very nervous about any mention of the word 'gallows' so it seems appropriate to exit the canal at this point and join St John's Street. 

- BitterSuite -

With a railway bridge getting nearer on the horizon, we note the Greyhound Inn as a perished pub on the end of a long row of terraced houses. We can't stop for a drink there but luckily the BitterSuite isn't very much further, situated literally in the shadows of the railway opposite the former Lichfield Brewery buildings. Oakham's Fruit Crumble Porter really hits the mark with its biscuity treacly notes, all that's missing is a jug of custard! I first sampled BitterSuite not long after it initially started trading and it seems to be going from strength to strength, retaining table service for that extra personal touch and also boasting a wide range of fruit ciders. 

- The Mad Hatter Looks On -

Leaving ourselves plenty of time to check out more of Lichfield's finest watering holes, we call into the Acorn Wetherspoons for a leisurely lunch (chicken katsu curry with deceptively spicy chilli slithers) before savouring the refined surroundings of Beerbohm's upper floor lounge. It takes considerable reserves of willpower to resist the extensive Belgian offerings here but we do keep it cask with a Port Out porter as 'forged in Yorkshire' by the Half Moon Brewery, and it's excellent! Similarly superb beer can then be found at our second Horse & Jockey of the day, Sandford Street's specimen getting very much into Grand National mode; we're not so fussed about the big horse race but do rate Three Tuns's Solstice as worthy of the winners' enclosure. An Alice in Wonderland shopfront scene encourages us towards the station and we're sure the Mad Hatter himself would have approved of our antics - cheers!