The Chip Foundation's catalogue of archive adventures gains another entry as Walsall gracefully consents to hosting a special outing for Ken's birthday. Prepare yourselves for coronation crowns, hippopotamuses and the usual array of watering holes...
- Preparing for the big day -
The chronicle count has now reached episode 75 as Friday 21st April has the gang variously converging upon an unsuspecting Walsall. Stephen and I make use of the number 69 bus via Coppice Farm, New Invention and Beechdale, whereas Nick is on the train and birthday boy Ken comes courtesy of a different bus route (probably the 529). Once we're all gathered in unison, our first stop is the New Art Gallery which dominates one end of Walsall Town Wharf. The gallery first opened in early 2000 and acts as a showcase for the best in contemporary art; judging by the large crown on display in the community exhibition, they must have heard that Nick was due to pay them a visit - it isn't quite coronation time just yet!
- Artistic Ponderings -
The centrepiece of the galley's holdings is the Garman Ryan collection as donated to the town by Kathleen Garman and Sally Ryan in 1973. It forms a permanent first floor display featuring numerous Jacob Epstein sculptures along with paintings and sketches by the likes of Monet, Constable and Pissarro. The Jacob Epstein Archive is imaginatively presented with slogans such as 'If you make art what happens we you die'? We spend a thoroughly cultural hour or more browsing the exhibits, including the temporary fourth floor homage to local Art Schools from the wider West Midlands area.
- And the Pub of the Year is... -
Heavy early morning downpours are gradually giving way to brighter conditions but we still get a wriggle on to reach our first pub in case the rain returns. The Pretty Bricks on John Street is a backstreet Black Country Ales beauty which was recently declared to be Walsall CAMRA's 2023 Pub of the Year winner, thus making it a highly fitting establishment for marking Ken's birthday. Beowulf's Chocolate Porter goes down a storm as we admire a ceremonial cask lid trophy and photos from the branch's formative years - placards stating 'Ban Bubbly Beer' and 'It's a Swizz, It's Only Fizz' indicate what they were up against in trying to save real ale back in the 1970s. Cricket chat is also naturally on the agenda with those here present said to be rather content with Warwickshire's start to the County Championship season so far.
- Mr B meets the Walsall Hippo -
Afternoon sunshine is very promising indeed as we head back along Stafford Street into the town centre once more. The Red Lion on Park Street is certainly handsome with its Queen Anne-styled frontage topped with a terracotta lion; it's a Banks's boozer in the main and the Amber is frothily good on this occasion as we climb a narrow spiral staircase to sit on the upper mezzanine level. Posters about drag cabaret acts make the mind boggle so we're on safer ground discussing the changing plight of the stay-at-home housewife since the 1950s. The need for lunch then leads us to the St Matthew's Hall, now Walsall's only Wetherspoons after the demise of the Imperial, whereby a supposedly not-very-hungry Nick practically sprints to the bar when ordering his discounted Fishy Friday meal. What would a certain concrete hippopotamus make of such antics?!
- Cool for Katz? -
In fairness, the food at the St Matthew's Hall was good and arrived relatively quickly, nor could we quibble about the ale quality as regards the Burton Bridge Top Dog Stout either. Satisfied with that, we proceed via Intown Row to the Victoria on Lower Rushall Street. Affectionately better known as the Katz, this pub feels little changed by the ravages of time and we happily plonk ourselves in the front room next to the coal fire, all constantly watched over by Queen Victoria's stern portrait. Church End Gravedigger's Mild is always a beer Nick and I are very pleased to see and it more than meets our excitable expectations; Stephen meanwhile is caught out by a mischievous step but gracefully recovers his composure with aplomb.
- The Watering Trough -
There are no further pratfalls when we relocate to what I'd billed as my wildcard selection, not that the Watering Trough is especially unusual. I remember it being called the Rising Sun for a while (maybe when Highgate Brewery owned it?) and it had something of a heavy metal vibe. This time around we sense it is undergoing some kind of redecoration, and a lack of cask ale options mean we go rogue for some Old Mout Berry Cider - it makes a change for us all to be drinking purple peril! Whether the pub is quite to Nick's royal tastes is uncertain although Ken enthusiastically gives the place his seal of approval, impressed by the games provision and a very talkative barmaid.
- Hedgehog Happenings in the Black Country Arms -
Have we saved the best for last? The Black Country Arms is a firm Chip Foundation favourite which never lets us down, situated on High Street where the market stalls used to stretch past the front door and up towards the steps of St Matthew's Church. Lettering outside claims that this has been a licenced inn since 1627 while indoors we spot an old M&B sign from the days when it was called the Green Dragon. A whole host of handpulls requires much deliberation before we settle on Beartown's Polar Stout with traces of treacle and burnt toffee, lovely stuff! Our concluding conversations cover politics, football and train times, and there's even chance for Nick to hold a hedgehog before we go our separate ways. Happy Birthday Ken - cheers!
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