If you're getting a sense of deja vu then yes, the Chip Foundation did indeed visit Royal Leamington Spa this time last year so our 2023 curtain-raising escapade is a repeat of sorts. Hoping for better Warwickshire weather this time around, our eminent tour guide Mr Nick Esq is awaiting our attendance for a day of drums, dogs and drinks...
- Regency Architecture on Regent Street -
Episode 73 of the Chip Foundation Chronicles falls on Friday 24th February 2023 as I meet the Beardsmore contingent at Wolverhampton railway station. Both Stephen and John are on fine form while the 10:39 Bournemouth-bound train behaves itself, getting us to Leamington where our regal host is lurking patiently by the ticket barriers. Pleasantries exchanged, Nick leads us across the Pump Room Gardens (pointing out a wooden throne that apparently has not been erected in his honour) and along Portland Place East past the art deco Vue Cinema. The word of the morning is 'juxtaposition' whereby we compare contrasting architectural styles although the fancy Georgian elevations along Regent Street are hard to beat.
- The Woodland Tavern Mural -
Nick has picked out one of his personal favourites to provide our opening tipple of the day, the Woodland Tavern being a traditional corner local that retains hints of Ansell's insignia. Nestled on the corner of Regent Street and New Brook Street, it has a notable external mural featuring drayhorses and a depiction of the landlady. The resident pub dog 'Woody' is a very friendly creature (once Nick gets over the initial shock of being barked at), and we make ourselves at home with halves of Cheddar Valley Stan's Cider plus Guinness for the elder Beardsmore. Chart trivia knowledge about Frankie Laine hit records mingles with discussions about T20 cricket and Stephen's chainsaw-wielding antics in his Heath Town back garden. A fine start!
- Drumming up custom in the Star & Garter -
After a brief rain shower has subsided, our princely plotter navigates our way to stopping point number two. The Star & Garter claims to be one of Leamington's oldest hostelries and is just within the historic town boundary as marked by the Milverton Brook (or so our guide tells me); anyway, we troop inside to partake of either Purity Gold or Church Farm Harry's Heifer and sit astride a repurposed large drum that seemingly belonged to the Brailes Brass Band. Swivel stools take some getting used to but once I get my balance back the setting makes for quite a novelty, aided by scatter cushions and a bagatelle scoreboard. The half term holidays mean the rest of the pub is busy with family diners mainly chomping on chunky chips.
- Clarendon Square -
We'll be having food later so for now it's on with the sightseeing. Nick points out The Dell as a sunken park before contemplating the well-heeled charms of Clarendon Square, used as a filming location for the 2010s reboot of the 'Upstairs Downstairs' television series. A nearby property was at one time frequented by future French Emperor Napoleon III; alas Murphy's Bar can't claim quite such prestigious patronage but we enjoy it all the same, quaffing either Guinness or Slaughterhouse's Saddleback Bitter (a good pint of the latter in my case). This place used to be adorned with superhero figurines until the local council insisted they were taken down, although there are still quirky sharks and mermaid models to see inside.
- A Hophead in the Fox & Vivian -
Meal matters are taken care of by the Benjamin Satchwell Wetherspoons which supplies Fish Friday deals and varying degrees of gammon portions, not to mention some unwanted garden peas. Stephen is keeping a close eye on the England Womens T20 semi-final scorecard from South Africa but the ladies fall to an agonising defeat. We therefore pitch into the Fox & Vivian so as to perk ourselves up again - this is a rather upmarket bar in truth with plastic potplants and a liking for 1930s-styled newsprint wallpaper. Many of the tables are reserved for evening assignations but we're fine to linger for respective slurps of Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Dark Star's Hophead, a golden floral brew loaded with Cascade hoppiness.
- Not so jolly in the Holly Bush? -
One Leamington watering hole that has always eluded us over the course of several visits is the Holly Bush, a 1970s estate affair on the eastern edges of the town centre. Refurbs and other more prolonged closures have scuppered our attempts to claim it previously so we're pleased to see it open on this occasion, even if the resulting experience isn't much to write home about. Superchilled Guinness has Mr B Senior bordering on grumbly mode while pub games fans have a dartboard and a pool table to keep themselves occupied. Our revelries end here and Nick is tasked with getting us back to the station by 18:16 for our homeward connections. This he achieves with aplomb and the day is declared a true success - cheers!
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