Towpath Turpin's Beer Garden Safari

For our first joint pubfaring outing of 2021, Nick and I intrepidly rove the wilds of Warwickshire for a day of locks (aplenty), stocks (of ale at last) and barrel-roofed cottages. Here comes the tale of the trip...

- JFK Memorial Mosaic -

Friday 23rd April 2021 is a sunkissed St George's Day blessed with cloudless blue skies. Having arranged to meet Nick just before noon, I have the morning free to dabble around Digbeth by stocking up on street art photography. The area around the Custard Factory is always a surefire bet for gathering graffiti, hence I duly encounter Inspector Gadget, Spongebob Squarepants and Pat Butcher (of EastEnders fame). Another key target is the John F Kennedy memorial mosaic as designed by Kenneth Budd; the artwork was originally located at St Chad's Circus but has latterly been recreated on the corner of Floodgate Street.

- HS2 Construction at Eastside -

Still having half hour spare before my train, I decide to catch up on HS2 progress over towards Curzon Street where the Woodman pub stands as an island amidst all the hoardings. Some local road closures are in force as construction gains momentum, with Park Street now permanently shut and part of Fazeley Street also affected. There are various gates for works access, including one at the top of Bordesley Street, and mounds of aggregate piled up where land is being prepared for the arrival of the high speed line. Eastside has already seen rapid change in recent years and is set to be transformed again as the project continues. 

- Towpath Turpin: Bridge Inspector -

Lapworth is today's designated meeting point and the 11:34 departure from Moor Street has me clocking in on schedule. In keeping with his billing as 'Towpath Turpin', Nick has plotted out a walk that will make extensive use of Warwickshire waterways and we immediately make tracks for the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal, joining at Bridge 34 (Mill Lane). We couldn't have asked for better weather and the conditions are just perfect for enjoying a leisurely stroll through a prolonged slice of lock heaven - the Lapworth flight is certainly extensive so my camera goes into overdrive recording each structure between Lock 15 and Lock 31. 

- Fleur de Lys, Lowsonford -

The architecture along this section of the Stratford Canal is particularly distinctive. Many of the lock bridges have central slits that historically allowed towropes to pass through unhindered, and we also spot several lovely examples of barrel-domed keepers' cottages - you don't tend to see this rounded roof design elsewhere very often. With the photo count soaring, we reach Bridge 41 for lunchtime in Lowsonford whereby the Fleur de Lys has a magnificent hay-lined marquee as well as a superb beer garden. A pint of Proper Job provides ideal refreshment for the opening stage of our 'Beer Garden Safari', making the most of outdoor drinking zones. 

- Lowsonford St Luke's -

The next leg of Nick's plan requires us to utilise country lanes towards Shrewley, and it seems no matter how far we walk we always seem to be six miles from Warwick - I guess distances are never an exact science in these parts! Coining the term 'flexible mileage' as a result, we try our best to ignore the distant drone of the M40 motorway. Narrow Lane introduces us to St Luke's, a quaint Victorian chapel (built in 1877 we believe) that acts as Lowsonford's principal place of worship. Despite the temptation of various public footpaths, we stick with the lane and emerge onto Shrewley Common, passing above a notable railway tunnel.

- Harry's Heifer at the Durham Ox -

It's turning into a relatively warm afternoon so we're delighted to see our second safari stop up ahead. The Durham Ox claims to have been established in 1764 and the main farmstead building certainly appears to have some age to it; more importantly for us today, there are plenty of outside beer tables not to mention an ornamental vintage Ferguson tractor. Towpath Turpin is very partial to a local ale so Harry's Heifer from the Church Farm Brewery gets a considered thumbs up, slaking our thirst in readiness for further canal coverage. 

- Surveying Shrewley Tunnel -

Besides the beer, Nick has promised me an engineering 'treat' and his star attraction is revealed to be Shrewley Tunnel as we join the Grand Union. I've explored a number of tunnels over the years but what makes this one memorable is that the towpath at the northern portal separates off into its own atmospheric passage - I imagine this would have been somewhat claustrophobic when frequented by horses! A combination of tree-lined cuttings and sweeping embankments then convey us into Rowington, noting the presence of a sizeable conifer plantation and admiring the cuteness of some newly-born lambs. 

- Rowington Church -

The sight of Bridge 62 prompts a detour into Rowington village, which remarkably maintains the theme of being six miles from Warwick. St Lawrence's Church looks delightful framed by carefully-tended topiary bushes, and a churchyard bench proves an appropriate setting for Nick to nibble on his customary mini Cheddars. Returning to the canal once more, we proceed to Bridge 63 at Turner's Green whereupon the Tom O' The Wood takes its turn in the beer garden safari spotlight. Church Farm's Pale Ale tickles our tastebuds here, shaded by a grey jumbrella as we discuss the relative merits of Englishness versus Britishness. 

- Weston Hall Bridge (No. 64) -

All good things come to an end they say and our safari swansong sees us back in Lapworth, hoping that the evening popularity of the Navigation won't preclude us from having a final pint. Time is tight in terms of the trains so my glass of Lapworth Gold disappears very quickly indeed; it's a good job it was nice and fresh so it slipped down rather easily, purely out of necessity of course! With that I bid Nick farewell and the safari is deemed a resounding success, no doubt helped by the faultless sunshine, and it really was wonderful to be able to meet up, cover a few miles and enjoy some ales again - cheers!