- Looking out over the River Leam -
Saturday 11th January and my Chiltern carriage awaits, conveying me from Moor Street towards Oxford; engineering works mean no through service to Marylebone this weekend. Nick intercepts the train at Warwick Parkway and plots our initial walk around Leamington, his chosen riverside route allowing for a photographic raid upon 'Clubland' (so called because the Irish Centre, Sea Cadet and Canoe Club facilities are all located together). The River Leam looks muddy and swollen after recent rainfall but hasn't yet reached a height where it would burst its banks - the colour of the water makes us wonder whether a swamp monster might suddenly emerge out of the primordial soup.
- Grand Union Canal, Bridge 44 -
Spared any encounters with a creature from the deep, we cross Princes Drive and follow a trackway to reach the Grand Union Canal. I've never covered this precise section before so I pay close attention as Bridge 44 carries Myton Road over the cut. A Lidl supermarket and the wharfish modern apartments of Aragon Drive then accompany us to Bridge 43 near the Leamington Shopping Park. There are two fairly corporate canalside pubs here although the Moorings is more upmarket than the Waterside Inn; our highwayman hero is not best impressed with a sour half of Hobgoblin but the Purity UBU is happily more to his liking.
- Cushioned characters in the Pig & Fiddle -
Recommencing canal coverage, our next stretch of Grand Union gallivanting brings us into Old Town where we exit the towpath at Clemens Street (Bridge 40). There are a number of proper boozers in the vicinity so we try a couple, namely the Hope Tavern and the Pig & Fiddle. The former is a no frills establishment showing racing from Fairyhouse whereas the latter boasts a secluded walled garden populated by porcine-themed cushions. We're pleased to report that both pubs serve local cask ales, hence we contentedly quaff halves of Purity Pure Gold followed by Slaughterhouse Saddleback Bitter.
- Mission Musings in Old Town -
The site of Leamington's original settlement, Old Town is positioned south of the river and has an earthier feel compared to the Georgian spa town expansion further north. There are still plenty of architectural gems to enjoy this side of the Leam, one such example being the former Mission on George Street. Now in use as a Seventh Day Adventist Church, the building really stands out with Ionic columns in Greek Revival style. Less striking but nonetheless noteworthy are the Town House (hosting a kiddies birthday party) and the Bowling Green, two more watering holes that might tickle our fancy.
- 'Mauled' by Candlelight -
As our sports correspondent Stephen checks in with news from Molineux (Wolves 1 Newcastle 1 final score), Nick's expert navigation has us bisecting the Jephson Gardens and pitching promptly along the Parade. The Cellar Club has caught his eye as a subterranean drinking den that showcases craft beer - you can even purchase a tab card and serve yourself should you wish. The vegan-friendly Dark Maule Oatmeal Stout really hits the spot while candlelight flickers around this new found lair - a perfect highwayman's hideaway!
- White Horse Hotel -
We now proceed to the only Good Beer Guide entrant we'll be doing today, the White Horse Hotel on Clarendon Avenue (Leamington does have other GBG haunts which we've sampled on previous occasions). As befits a historic coaching inn, this has an air of refinement to match the Little Critters Blonde Bear ale - Nick even finds a new steed on the courtyard although the quirky equine sculpture probably wouldn't be much use in a getaway situation.
- Purity personified in the Star & Garter -
We therefore have to continue on foot to our final raid of the day, Warwick Street supplying the Star & Garter to complete our haul of hostelries. Staking a claim to be one of Leamington's longest-running licensed premises, this gastropub is situated close to the brook which divides the town from the neighbouring community of Milverton. We partake of Purity's Bunny Hop by way of a very fresh closing tipple then commandeer our homeward Chiltern connection and disappear into the night. Such larks!
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