- Aberystwyth Castle -
Monday 28th May: it had been absolutely ages since I last set foot in Wales but the Bank Holiday soon changed all that, journeying down via the A458 from Shrewsbury via Welshpool. Our lunchtime stop is Aberystwyth, admiring the ruined castle and getting some photos of the linked railway stations - the mainline terminus building is partly a Wetherspoons pub (Yr Hen Orsaf) with a walkway connecting to the Vale of Rheidol station for the heritage line to Devil's Bridge.
- Fishguard Town Hall -
Monday afternoon heralds our arrival in Fishguard where we settle into our caravan before getting our bearings. The town is effectively in two halves, the main town centre on top of the cliffs and then the pretty harbour area down below. Landmarks include the Town Hall (in a fetching shade of mint green), the Abergwaun Hotel (currently closed) and the Fishguard Arms, a rustic tavern which serves Bass straight from the barrel and provides a memorable singalong setting when we gatecrash the tail end of the local Folk Festival.
- Castle Square, Haverfordwest -
Tuesday 29th May: onto Tuesday then and a visit to Pembrokeshire's county town, Haverfordwest. Besides being an administrative centre, there is a castle (dating from circa 1110) and the River Cleddau (with two interesting bridges) to investigate. A quick call at the railway station and a bite to eat at Guymer's Cafe completes a productive morning, plus I get pictures of the war memorial and a couple of imposing churches (St Mary's on the High Street, then St Martin of Tours).
- St David's Cathedral -
Tuesday afternoon offers the chance to savour the United Kingdom's smallest city and the ecclesiastical capital of Wales, namely St David's. The ancient cathedral combines with the majestic ruins of Bishops Palace to provide a serious history fix, an impromptu gospel choir performance adding extra layers of wonder. The compact city centre has its charms too - most notably a centuries old Celtic Cross - although things do seem a tad more commercialised than I remember from childhood.
- Fishguard Harbour Station -
Wednesday 30th May: Fishguard takes the spotlight for a morning stroll covering both of the town's stations plus the ferry port village of Goodwick (spotting the Rose & Crown pub and a brass band hut). Of the railway locations, Fishguard Harbour is perhaps the most intriguing as it is part of the Stena Line terminal from where passengers can connect onto boats for Ireland (Rosslare). Goodwick's Parrog then presents a stretch of seafront promenade albeit with some industrial surroundings.
- Tenby Harbour -
Wednesday is also our day for a ride out to Tenby, a popular South Pembrokeshire seaside resort set within 13th century town walls. The harbour here is particularly enchanting with different pastel shades on display, and apparently Mr SBI is in the area although I don't actually see him. In fairness I was distracted by the prospect of the Buccaneer, a 2018 Good Beer Guide pub that serves as the taphouse for the Harbwr Tenby Brewery - my chosen ale RFA Sir Galahad is named after the town's former lifeboat.
- Mosaic on Goodwick Parrog -
Thursday 31st May: more action from Goodwick to begin with as I study the trio of mosaics located along the Parrog. One of the designs focuses on the events of February 1797 when Fishguard was subject to a military invasion by French forces (the most recent hostile landing on mainland Britain). An element of folklore has developed around what actually took place but it seems the Royal Oak inn on Fishguard Square played a role in receiving news of the French surrender.
- Cardigan Bridge -
Thursday's afternoon destination is Cardigan, perched on the banks of the River Teifi in Ceredigion. A Norman castle overlooks the river crossing with an otter sculpture keeping a close eye on comings and goings across the old bridge. The adjacent Prince Charles Quay is a scenic spot at which to sit, relax and contemplate the words of 'Y Cei', a poem by Ceri Wynn Jones which considers the contrasting emotions of arrivals and departures. I must admit I took a liking to Cardigan and not just because of my background working in libraries!
- Draught Bass awaits! -
Our return route from Cardigan takes in a Pontfaen detour to track down the Dyffryn Arms, a time capsule of a pub tucked away in the Gwaun Valley. Affectionately known as Bessie's in reference to the longserving landlady, this is a complete throwback to a type of hostelry that has all but disappeared. It takes a bit of finding down the narrow country lanes but the Bass is worth it, served from the jug through a hatch in the front parlour. I simply love old-fashioned boozers, especially ones this rare, and sitting outside on a battered bench in the sunshine is pretty much pub heaven!
- Royal Pier, Aberystwyth -
Friday 1st June: alas the time has come to bid Fishguard farewell, our final day in Wales proving somewhat damp and drab as we see Lower Town harbour through the morning mists. Before heading home to the West Midlands, we squeeze in another stop at Aberystwyth for a glimpse of the Royal Pier, one last lingering seaside sighter and then Wolverhampton beckons once more. What a week in Wales that was!
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