Happy Black Country Day!

Happy Black Country day everyone! Yes, 14th July each year is when we celebrate the rich history and heritage of the Black Country area, albeit this year the weather is so miserable that I doubt I'll be venturing out much. Instead I'll report back on a recent visit to the Black Country Living Museum where they've just unveiled their new town focusing on stories from the 1940s to the 1960s...

Launching to much acclaim last Saturday (8th July 2023), the 'Forging Ahead' High Street features the following additions to the museum's attractions:

• Stanton's Music Shop, based on a business that was originally located in Dudley town centre. Set in 1959, you can listen to the hits of the day and explore musical equipment of the post-war period. 
• West Bromwich Building Society, inspired by the former Cape Hill branch. 
• Marsh & Baxter, a famous butchers name that had many West Midlands outlets although this recreation uses their Brierley Hill shop as its reference point.
• Laurie Thomas's Hairdressers from Tividale Road, documenting the changing hairstyles and salons of the mid 1950s
• E. Minett's Ladieswear, a shopfront as replicated from Walsall Street in Wednesbury.
• Burgin's Newsagents, a well-known Dudley family business that provided newspapers, comics and confectionery.

Here are a few selected pictures from my initial look around. As is often the case, it was the smaller details that caught my eye - the goods and packaging of yesteryear...

A general snapshot of the Marsh & Baxter's shopfront lettering, although you can see hints of mock meat joints hanging in the front window. It is possible to buy tasty pork treats from the shop, such as scratchings and other hot and cold items.

A selection of vintage annuals and comics on display in Burgin's Newsagents, including Girls' Crystal (1958), the Dandy Book and a Fans Star Library cover featuring Debbie Reynolds. The Beezer was also well represented!

The living quarters behind Burgin's newspaper shop were laid out to depict a breakfast scene, complete with toaster, boiled eggs, salt and pepper shakers and cigarette boxes.

Minett's Ladieswear isn't fully operational in terms of being able to go into the shop yet, but the frontage gives a tantalising indication of the changes in late 1950s fashions that came with a boom in disposable income

Part of the Stanton's shop frontage, which includes large traditional signwriting panels for Pianos, Radio and Television - this is the Pianos piece. 

Inside Stanton's there are shelves full of records to peruse, plus racks of sheet music literature such as 'When You're In Love' and 'River, Stay 'Way From My Door'. The charts of the day used to log sheet record sales as an indicator of a song or tune's overall popularity, and it was often common for many different artists to record their own versions.

The opening of the new High Street last weekend marks just the latest milestone for the ongoing 'Forging Ahead' project, and it is important to note that many more exciting arrivals are in the pipeline. Halesowen & Hasbury Co-op, Woodside Library, Spring Hill Post Office (from Wolverhampton's Penn Road), and an Army & Navy Stores are all taking shape too along with industrial exhibits and an NHS clinic. Projected completion dates range from Autumn 2023 through into 2024. Lots to look forward to there then!

Bognor Regis and Other South Coast Stories

The WME family holiday for 2023 is to be a summertime seaside escape to Sussex, with Bognor Regis on standby to host us for a few days. This is one part of the country I've never been to before - the closest I've got until now is Brighton and Hove - so it should make for an exciting break...

- Bognor Regis Seafront -

Four days of full-on fun begin with Monday 5th July and the long journey down from the West Midlands to the South Coast. An early start pays dividends for avoiding the worst of any traffic snarl-ups and we arrive in the West Sussex seaside resort of Bognor Regis just after midday. We can't check into our accommodation until 4pm so we can get leisurely acquainted with the town and its seafront attractions; Bognor was first developed by Sir Richard Hotham during the late C18th but the coming of the railways in the 1860s brought increased popularity with holidaymakers and daytrippers. Among the landmarks helping us to get our bearings are a Butlin's camp, the pier, and several references to Reynolds' family furniture business.

- Bognor Regis Station -

Indeed, the Reynolds name seems almost inescapable and they have one emporium directly opposite Bognor Regis railway station. The train terminus is currently encased in scaffolding so I can't fully appreciate its Edwardian elegance but the facility sits at the end of the short branch line down from Barnham. Over the road, the Picturedrome Cinema is undergoing its own renovation works but still seems to be showing movies despite the upheaval. Thoughts of refreshment have us seeking out the Hatters Inn, admittedly hardly the best Wetherspoons showcase we've ever come across - even the carpet isn't especially exciting and rivals the tables for general stickiness. Hopefully better ale experiences are to come this week...

- Comic Considerations in Southsea -

To Tuesday 6th July and I've got my heart set on visiting the historic naval city of Portsmouth, hence changing at Barnham and catching the train westwards into Hampshire via Chichester, Havant, Hilsea and Fratton. Portsmouth & Southsea Station serves the city centre as well as the neighbouring district of Southsea, an attractive place in its own right. My initial wanderings introduce me to Clarence Pier and the Isle of Wight hovercraft while Southsea Esplanade is dominated by the terracotta edifice of the Queens Hotel. Pubwise my star find is the Barley Mow on Castle Road, cheekily adorned with mock comic strips attesting to its fine real ale reputation. An unspoiled heritage interior with bar billiards tables and quirky puppets makes for a memorable setting in which to partake of Sherfield Brewery's Pioneer Stout. Lovely!

- Round Tower, Old Portsmouth -

The afternoon weather is mizzly and drizzly but that only adds to the atmosphere as I stroll along Portsmouth's historic waterfront, imagining bawdy days of yore when sailors would have frequented the old taverns in search of liquor and illicit company. Round Tower and the Long Curtain Battery (with its moat) are part of the defensive formations as I investigate features that might have been familiar to Vice Admiral Nelson and other seafaring heroes. Hoping not to be press-ganged myself, I reach Portsmouth Point which is otherwise referred to as 'Spice Island' because of the nefarious spicy activities that would have occurred here, the area being notorious as a place where prostitutes once plied their trade. 

- Ferry Spotting at Bath Square -

Steering clear of any such mischief, I concentrate on watching ferry manoeuvrings courtesy of the Brittany and Wightlink fleet, Bath Square commanding great views from the southeastern corner of Portsmouth Harbour. Two pubs are worthy of mention: the Still & West is a Fuller's operation where I can quietly sup Gales HSB when looking out across the waves towards Gosport, whereas the Spice Island Inn was formerly known as the Union Tavern and still carries fascinating tiled signage for Brickwoods Brilliant Ales and Stout. Greene King are currently overseeing proceedings here so a pint of Timothy Taylor's Landlord is in order, ensconced upstairs in the Smugglers Room keeping tabs on the Spinnaker Tower.

- River Arun at Littlehampton -

After those Hampshire happenings, the third day of the holiday focuses solely upon Sussex. The 700 bus is a long-distance route that in theory connects Portsmouth and Brighton, albeit via interchanges at Chichester and Littlehampton; we cover the relatively short stretch from Bognor to the latter via Flansham Park. Littlehampton is situated at the mouth of the River Arun and therefore boasts an inviting seafront as well as working riverside scenery - I'm particularly interested in the boatyards by the red footbridge near the Steam Packet pub. Sustenance in the form of a large traditional breakfast is obtained from the George Inn (a better JDW encounter than the Hatters, that's for sure) and I make time to include a little amble along Littlehampton Pier and the pebble-laden East Beach.

- Basketmakers Arms, Brighton -

Wednesday afternoon sees me venturing further eastwards to the seaside metropolis that is Brighton. It has been nearly eleven years since I last set foot in the city but the North Laine cultural quarter is as vibrant and welcoming as ever, awash with street art and bohemian discoveries around every corner. Top target as far as I'm concerned is the Basketmakers Arms, a traditional boozer nestled away on Gloucester Road. Dark Star Brewery's American Pale Ale slakes my thirst amongst a plethora of cigar tins, etched mirrors and enamel adverts while the pub is a hive of activity both inside and out. After snaffling a few more pictures - including some of the Heart & Hand on North Road - I catch my return train to Littlehampton along the West Coastway Line via Hove, Shoreham-by-Sea and Worthing. 

- Chichester Canal Basin -

Where has the week gone? All of a sudden it's Thursday 6th July and the last full day of our holiday sees us being charmed by Chichester. The number 700 bus is again on hand to form the necessary connection and we're soon surveying West Sussex's county town complete with Roman references and ancient architecture. Before I get to grips with the cathedral or other such delights, I seek out a section of the Chichester Canal as an inland waterway that provided important navigation links for the city's development. These days the canal basin is popular for school trips and pleasure cruises while the towpath forms a four mile-long ribbon of greenery out towards the marina at Birdham. I get as far as the Selsey Tramway Bridge before retracing my footsteps, saying hello to swans, moorhens and coots along the way.

- Chichester Cross -

Chichester's bus and railway stations are in close proximity and there's a Stagecoach depot to grab my attention too. The Pallants form a warren of townhouses at the heart of Chichester life for several centuries, but they get very much upstaged by the Grade I-listed magnificence of Chichester Cross which marks the intersection of the city's principal streets. Octagonal in design and constructed from Caen stone, the cross has acted as an important meeting point since medieval times (circa 1501 after being gifted by Bishop Story as a place where poorer people could sell their wares). Bright sunshine encourages me to photograph the structure from a variety of suitable angles - that's my muse for the morning sorted!

- Chichester Cathedral -

Another Wetherspoons feed - this time courtesy of the Dolphin & Anchor as based in part of a much larger former hotel building - prepares me for even more of a history fix, as firstly we call into the Novium Museum to learn about Chichester's rich Roman heritage (including seeing the remains of a ruined bath house). Chichester Cathedral then rightfully takes centre stage, assisted by its Bell Tower and the beautiful environs of the Bishop's Palace Gardens. The grounds are hosting an art illustrators event so it's interesting to see people going about their sketches and taking inspiration from such a timeless setting. A quick pint or two care of the Hole in the Wall (Big Smoke Brewery) and the Park Tavern (a deep and resinous glass of Gales HSB) precedes the bus ride back to Bognor, and on Friday 7th we came home. 

The Stratford-upon-Avon Beer Festival

Apart from attending the Great British Beer Festival (Winter) at Burton Town Hall back in February, I've been slacking somewhat as regards going to CAMRA events this year. This means the Stratford Beer Festival is only the second ale extravaganza to make it into my 2023 diary, and our very own Nick will be joining me in Shakespeare country...

- Shakespeare by the Station -

It's Friday 30th June 2023 and the festival gods have conspired that Bromsgrove, Stratford and Stafford's celebrations of cask have all been arranged over the same weekend. We can only squeeze in one of them so the Warwickshire option is our preference on this occasion, hence I catch the 9:36 train at Smethwick Galton Bridge which His Majesty joins in Dorridge. Arriving at Stratford circa 10:46, we quickly reacquaint ourselves with the terminus station's heritage charms, not least a handsome footbridge dating from 1891. The pavement along Station Approach is punctuated with mosaic circles detailing swans, theatres and canals.

- Stratford Racecourse -

Nick has devised our opening walk and purposefully leads us along Rother Street where the Mason's Court cottage looks every inch a medieval Wealden hall. One mysterious front room seems to have become someone's personal shrine to Stratford's railway heritage, and when we join The Greenway we're effectively strolling along what used to be the Honeybourne Line towards Cheltenham. We pass Bobby's, a popular tearoom housed in a converted carriage, then enjoy fine views looking out over the nearby racecourse where sprinklers are ensuring the turf is kept fresh ready for the next round of jump races. 

- Staking out Stannell's Bridge -

We've actually investigated some of The Greenway previously (back in 2015 when we were also en route to the beer festival) but didn't get as far as Stannell's Bridge and its distinctive rusty girders that day. The bridge spans the verdant River Avon and reminds me of a similar if smaller structure on the Staffs & Worcs Canal near Tettenhall. Nick poses patiently amidst the metallic surroundings before we descend below to briefly flank the riverbank, looking out for a gap into an adjacent field. Sure enough, we find the access we seek and hug the pasture's boundary edge to reach a kissing gate onto the racecourse's main footpath. 

- The festival awaits -

As well as being a well-liked venue for National Hunt racing, Stratford-upon-Avon Racecourse has long served as the host location for the town's annual beer festival. Negotiating the clunky antique turnstiles, we take care of admission matters and settle ourselves in on the top floor of the Pravha Bar, an excellent spectators gallery from where we can admire the grandstand and winning post. Ales rather than horses are our primary concern though so we get stuck straight into halves of Titanic 'Cappuccino Stout' and Fuzzy Duck's 'Ruby Duck', taking advantage of the extra token bestowed upon CAMRA members. 

- Titanic Chocolate & Vanilla Stout -

That Fuzzy Duck was a nice start for me but soon gets upstaged by Coach House's 'Banoffee Bitter' which does exactly what it says on the tin (it helps that I like the flavours of toffee and banana of course). Nick for his part is seriously impressed by Brew York's 'Tonkoko' with its promise of hand-roasted coconuts and Madagascan vanilla pods, even if he makes sure to include the lovely Titanic 'Chocolate & Vanilla Stout' too. In between times, I get embroiled with 'Daddy's Little Warlord' (Fosse Way Brewery) which at 7% abv is not something to be trifled with. Thankfully I survive to tell the tale, and we round off on the novelty of 'Vienna Lager' - yet another Titanic tipple - and very refreshing it is too! Friday afternoon's session takes a while to get busy but the punters begin to congregate eventually, perhaps tempted along by biltong stalls or the £2.10-a-half pricing on all ciders and perries. 

- The Keys, Ely Street -

Thanking the festival volunteers for their sterling efforts as always, we take our leave and roam another stretch of lost railway back through to Seven Meadows Road. Ely Street is Nick's next target for not one but two intriguing boozers that are far enough away from the tourist hotspots to feel like proper community haunts. The Keys offers a decent drop of Bull Pale (Wye Valley) amidst lacy lighting and trench green woodwork as we find time to discuss genealogical topics regarding Nick's family provenance. Switching just up the road to the Queens Head, we hope in vain for an Australian batting collapse whilst catching up on the Ashes action from Lords. Timothy Taylor's Landlord goes down nicely here. 

- Meeting the main man in Ya Bard! -

For our final calling point, Nick suggests we try out Ya Bard as a craft tasting room and bottle shop on the aforementioned Rother Street. The pun in the bar's title already earns it brownie points and my esteem for the place only increases once we get to grips with the Glasshouse Marigold IPA resembling tropical citrus juice and tasting very zingy. Shakespeare caricatures add to the fun so we decide to stop for a Black Iris Little Dipper (murkily opaque but again highly drinkable). Apparently there's a vintage emporium upstairs too but we call it quits and return to the station for our homeward trains. Barred at Ya Bard? Not us!

WME Flickr Focus - June 2023

In amongst watching Ashes cricket and celebrating a certain landmark birthday, I have found time in June to populate the West Midlands Exploration photostream with another forty or so new arrivals - indeed, the number 40 has seemingly been following me around all month!! Let's see which pictures have made the set list this time around...

If this were a festival of photography, there's clearly been only one headliner in town and that's the mighty WME Birmingham. A powerhouse performance has drummed up a storm thanks to the delights of Digbeth, a place that consistently delivers strong supplies of street signs and graffiti. Meriden Street murals featuring the faces of Brum's future take pride of place alongside Little Ann Street and Moore's Row, then we have the not insignificant matter of Edgbaston with its cricketing kiosks bearing bat, ball and poppy motifs.

Among the support acts, WME Staffordshire and WME Dudley earned themselves rave reviews by showcasing selections from their greatest hits repertoires. Staffordshire gets literally stumped in Dimmingsdale - more of those funny faces that appear along the Staffs & Worcs towpath - whilst also endearing us to Ebstree Lock. As for Dudley, it belts out snapshots of Top Church and the Britannia pub with great gusto.

It's very rare to see WME Coventry upstaging the omnipresent WME Wolverhampton but that's exactly what has transpired. Coventry leaps up the bill courtesy of Fargo Village's arty eyeballs and curious characters (a robot with a coffee habit) plus a dartboard distraction from the Festival pub over in Fenside. Wolverhampton can't compete with such extravagances but does summon some pretty Finchfield blossoms - I suspect we'll be seeing even more of those in July.

Like its neighbour Coventry, WME Solihull can be prone to bouts of stagefright but nervously coaxes out a Dorridge double (a street sign specimen apiece for Forest Road and Dorridge Croft). WME Worcestershire meanwhile avoids getting marooned in a muddy campsite by squelching on over to Diglis Basin for lock views and the marina office. Negotiations are already underway to see which performers will make the cut for July's playlist so keep your eyes peeled over the coming days and weeks...