Ludlow and Tenbury Wells

Rising in mid Wales a little to the south of Newtown, the River Teme flows eastwards through Powys, Shropshire and eventually into Worcestershire where it meets the River Severn below Worcester. Two of the towns it visits along the way form the focus of a February getaway with Bookworm Bygrave, so here are selected highlights from our investigations of Ludlow and Tenbury Wells...

- Ludlow Castle Looms Above -

Let's start in Shropshire and lovely Ludlow which always rewards the intrepid traveller with its fascinating array of historic buildings combining to create an enchanting mixture of medieval and Georgian architecture. The town's castle originally commenced construction circa 1085/86 and its ruins contain features from the Norman and Tudor periods; to this day it dominates the area, standing boldly on its crest above the riverbank and commanding views across both the Welsh Marches and the immediate Salopian countryside. We briefly have a nose inside the gift shop (with Emily nervously making the acquaintance of a gleaming suit of armour) before strolling below the towers on a perimeter path that offers fine vistas over Linney and Dinham.

- Bookworm Bygrave beside the Teme -

Dinham - with its 25% downhill gradient in places - is our route to the water's edge, noting that Millennium Green has benches where you can sit and enjoy the scenery. An adjacent building (now partially housing a coffee shop) was formerly a water-powered corn mill while Dinham Bridge itself dates from the 19th century and boasts four stone arches spanning the Teme in sturdy fashion. Alongside our general sightseeing, there is scope for Bookworm Bygrave to live up to her nickname by perusing the shelves of Oxfam and the Castle Bookshop, striking lucky in the second of those for a Sylvia Plath purchase. Price's Bakery meanwhile serves up luxurious hot chocolate and gorgeous traybake cakes, whereby we can attest to the quality of their flapjacks and millionaire's shortbread. Artisan sourdough loaves seem popular here.

- The Dog Hangs Well -

Time for a pubby paragraph and it's not an exaggeration to say Ludlow has so many tempting taverns it's a struggle to pick which ones to try. Top of the WME wishlist are two classic parlour pubs that are rightly recognised for the quality of their conversion from other uses: the Blood Bay used to be a retail premises that has been lovingly restored to give a sense of authentic Victorian escapism, while the Dog Hangs Well on Corve Street is a hidden gem operating restricted opening hours - if the lantern is lit outside that's your clue it is open. Mobile phone use is banned in both establishments because they seek to conjure a sense of a bygone age, while the ale is excellent as Titanic Plum Porter meets Night Owl's Moonbather Stout. Further quality - this time of the gastronomic variety - is on offer at the Blue Boar, a coaching inn near the castle which kindly squeezes us in for a cracking meal, then a Black Country Ales nightcap in the Unicorn has us fussing the resident dogs before braving an unexpected blizzard!

- Teme Bridge, Tenbury Wells -

Thankfully we've thawed out in time for our tickle around Tenbury Wells, although the sight of my frozen hair getting encrusted with white snowflakes will be the source of ongoing Bygrave amusement I suspect. It must be around thirty years since I last came to Tenbury - my Nan and Grandad used to have a caravan in Stourport which provided a base for a few family adventures so it'll be interesting to see how much I remember. The answer is not a fat lot, although one instantly recognisable feature is the Teme Bridge as rebuilt in 1908. The river effectively forms the county boundary here, with the Burford side coming under Shropshire whereas the town centre is firmly within Worcestershire. We park up by the swimming baths and stage an initial recce, noting Tenbury Wells Library and some independent local shops. Banfield & Son's ironmongers has an interesting old frontage bearing stickers for Silent Refrigerators whilst proudly declaring 'We Stock Wolf'.

- Tenbury Round Market -

Two Tenbury heritage landmarks I am particularly keen to track down and photograph are the Round Market and the Pump Rooms. The first of these is a small but elaborate oval building which offers stallholders an undercover space from which to sell their produce; having first opened in 1858, it continues to trade five days a week. The Pump Rooms meanwhile share the same designer (James Cranston) as the market hall and were commissioned in order to develop Tenbury's spa town status. Built in 1862, the rooms form a highly distinctive ensemble in the Chinese Gothic style and nowadays serve as the Town Clerk's office and a meeting space that can host civil ceremonies. 

- Bullseye Bygrave wins again! -

After a most enjoyable brunch in Mr Thom's Cafe and Grill (a late breakfast for yours truly and a gooey bacon, brie and cranberry ciabatta for Miss B respectively), we have the difficult task of choosing which Tenbury pubs to sample. The Pembroke House gets the nod on account of its general wonkiness, black and white beams with a welcoming sense of cosiness. Robinsons Flagon Cider is produced nearby in Little Hereford - their orchards go back generations - so a pint of that is a must, and we take refuge in the far games room as the heavens open. Emily proves masterful on the darts (well she won, put it that way) whereas I display better prowess on the pool table. Once the weather improves, we decamp to the Market Tavern for another dose of Black Country Ales hospitality, earwigging on the Wales v France Six Nations rugby over a devilishly dark glass of Beowulf Finns Hall Porter. Two terrific towns on the Teme!