We've reached that time of year when I attempt to plug any holes in my annual trip compendium by targeting areas as yet unvisited. One of 2024's most glaring gaps is The Potteries so I've got my eyes firmly fixed on Stoke, the city that always delivers special adventures. Will the day be able to match the high standards set by Penkhull, Hartshill, Burslem et al?
- Glebe Street Bridge -
Stoke on Trent railway station is my starting point, noting that the road outside is being dug up amidst a mass of one-way restrictions while the North Stafford Hotel opposite is in the process of being renovated. Picking my way past the ongoing Goods Yard development - a Capital & Centric scheme which uses Levelling Up funding - I scurry down the steps onto the canalside to commence my Trent & Mersey mission. Bridge 113 seems familiar on the side of Grindeys Solicitors (within shouting distance of Stoke Civic Centre) but anything beyond that counts as completely fresh towpath territory...
- Trent & Mersey Scenery -
An immediate discovery is Jones & Shufflebottom's plumbing and bathroom works in all their corrugated glory; the firm is known as Jones & Shuffs for short and they have neighbouring plants both boasting white block lettering. There is then a ramshackle moorings base near Whieldon Road as I flirt with the fringes of Fenton - 'Rock and Roll Lady' is one of the boats residing here. The bridges descend numerically and there are hints of street art, some of the tags and characters being recognisable from Wolverhampton. Bridge 109 is a blue-railinged tunnel beside a huge waste incinerator plant with its beige concrete chimney towering above. Just a short distance further and I'm in prime position to exit for the footballing feature I've been promising myself, Bridge 108a leading directly onto Stoke City FC’s hinterlands.
- The Bet365 Stadium -
Given that I'd previously been to Vale Park with Mr D9 back in 2015, this visit ensures I've achieved Stoke sporting parity by checking out the home of The Potters. It's an impressive arena, purpose built in a self contained site near Trentham Lakes that's probably a far cry from the old Victoria Ground. Some of the access gates are only in use on matchdays but I can use the main driveway off the A50 to eye up the stands, ticket office and club shop. I recall this being known as the Britannia Stadium when it originally opened in the 1990s but the Coates family association ensures the links to betting sponsorship nowadays.
- Gordon Banks Statue -
A general wander along nearby approach roads reveals a tribute to Gordon Banks with 1966 trophy aloft and goalkeeping gloves in hand; as resemblances go this is a very good likeness, focusing on his proud England achievements rather than anything at club level (he served Stoke with distinction between 1967 and 1973). Had I done my research properly, I would also have sought out the Stanley Matthews Memorial Statue further around the stadium perimeter but I'll have to save that for a future treat. I do however manage to get pictures of the adjacent Trentham Lakes Harvester restaurant by way of consolation.
- A Michelin Marker -
Delighted with that stadium recce, I retrace my steps back over the Trent & Mersey Canal and continue on towards Stoke Town. Signs for Sideway accompany me across the busy arterial roads and around Michelin Roundabout, where mini Michelin Man figurines are a telltale clue that I'm outside the global tyre company's main UK headquarters. The River Trent is similarly present and correct with its own associated footpath so I make a mental note to investigate that for its future walking potential.
- The Plough Motel, Boothen -
Campbell Road is my route into Boothen, one of those Stoke suburbs that resonates with footballing history. The Plough Motel is still standing but apparently disused - a nice 1920s building with an ornamental name cartouche - while the Home Cooking chip shop opposite would've been right up my street were I not eating later. The Plough might have expired but there is a hostelry close at hand with plenty of life to it, the Gardeners Retreat being a bikers oasis with lots of leathers among the bearded clientele. This is a Marston's boozer of the best kind - friendly, local and utterly unpretentious - with quality Pedigree too. Further excellent hospitality is provided by the Wellington on London Road, an authentic corner local serving Draught Bass and where everyone is called 'duck'.
- Spode Art -
Talking of authenticity, how's about an unscripted ferret around the old Spode Works for a classic interlude? I'd done some of it with Mr D9 a few years ago but this is on a different level, having free rein to roam the industrial remains to my heart's content. The arch entry has been done out to resemble the famous Willow pattern plates with blue and white porcelain finery painted across the tarmac while a three-sided plinth adds extra lustre via depictions of bottle kilns, narrowboats and skilled illustrators. Beyond that I'm let loose among the outbuildings, capturing disused fire exits and safety notices aplenty. Partial regeneration appears to be underway here with boutique workshops and the British Ceramics Biennial exhibition.
- A Glebe Conclusion -
I need a classy finale and they don't come much more prestigious than the Glebe, an elegant taphouse which effectively abuts the aforementioned Civic Centre. Mr D9 and I splashed and dashed this once upon a time so it's nice to linger slightly longer; Joules are midway through a refurb (hence the external scaffolding) but that doesn't detract from a beguiling interior of dark wood and heraldic crests, truly befitting an establishment slap bang next to the seat of local government. This councillors' bolthole is more than acceptable for me, spotting stained glass and a carved Stoke coat of arms. A pint of Pale drinks nicely sitting below a Six Towns etched barrel and effect woodwork promoting draught ale - it's just a shame I need to get a move on to catch my train home. Stoke you've been stellar yet again, cheers!
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