The Wonders of Warwick

Since the lifting of lockdown, Warwick has had to play second fiddle to neighbouring Leamington Spa whenever Nick and I have staged a Warwickshire outing. All that is about to change however when - tapping into Nick's local expertise - we endeavour to give the county town the attention it deserves... 

- Guys Cliffe House -

It's Saturday 29th October 2022 and the wonders of Warwick await as we rendezvous at Leamington Station and catch the number 1 bus heading up from South Farm. Our initial ride takes us along Greville Road to the edges of the Woodloes Park estate where we alight so as to investigate the hamlet of Guys Cliffe. Passing the Knights of Middle England and a Riding School, Nick regales me with tales of the legendary Guy of Warwick, a Romance hero said to have slain dragons, wild boars, giants and the Dun Cow before seeing out his days here as a hermit beside the River Avon. Guys Cliffe House is a ruined property that nevertheless looks very commanding perched high above the riverbank near the site of the supposed hermitage.

- St James the Great Church, Old Milverton -

Our first refreshment stop of the day is at the Saxon Mill, a historic water-powered mill which was converted into a pub/restaurant during the 1950s; you can still see the old water wheel and grindstones as a public footpath leads to a weir behind the main building. A solid half of Timothy Taylor's Landlord in refined dining surroundings sets us up well for the onward stroll to Old Milverton, crossing crop fields and homing in on St James the Great Church with its distinctive mid-Victorian tower. Elsewhere in the village, a 17th century barn carries a stern warning that there are 'man traps and spring guns on these premises'; we take care not to trigger any such devices and note that the nearby Parish Rooms hosts regular meetings. 

- Halloween Happenings in the Elephant & Castle -

From St James's churchyard, Nick plots a course that generally follows the Avon towards Rock Mill Lane and thence Warwick. We hadn't visited the Elephant & Castle on Emscote Road previously so a call there is deemed a necessity; the pub has certainly embraced the Halloween spirit with a gallery of zombie-like portraits plus an array of skulls, skeletons and spiders - they even have a talking Uncle Fester-like model offering to stable Nick's horses, it clearly knows how to recognise royalty. Wadworth 6X is our cask tipple here and goes down well as we join an identity parade line-up of ghoulish characters. 

- John Smith's? Surely not! -

Our intention is to mop up a selection of Warwick watering holes that had eluded us until now, which does mean sampling places that don't serve real ale. Another quick ride on the 1 - via Deansway, Cape Road and St Michael's Hospital - conveys us to Saltisford where we admire the octagonal towers of an early gasworks. The Black Horse has a panel paying homage to the highwayman Bendigo Mitchell (hanged in 1776) and his horse Skater, while inside comes the shock sight of Nick drinking John Smith's Smoothpour - don't let the Staropramen glass fool you, this really is His Majesty partaking of the Beardsmore bleach!!

- Warwick Racecourse -

Next on the agenda is a walk alongside Warwick Racecourse, an open expanse which has been hosting meetings since 1707; the town as a whole can trace its horse-racing history back to 1694 apparently. Spotting the intriguingly named Bread & Meat Close - which in turn provides access to Hill Close Gardens for Victorian garden plots restored to their former glory - we venture along Crompton Street. Here the sports-oriented Foresters Arms seems largely deserted and forms a contrast to the Fourpenny Shop Hotel, a favourite of ours from earlier outings which we're sacrificing today because of focusing on less familiar haunts. 

- Francophile Flourishes in the Castle Inn -

Talking of which, the Castle Inn needs to be done even though we recognise it from when it was known as the Vine. A startling makeover has created a mock-Parisian effect from opulent chaise lounges and corsetry to a pronounced liking for feathers; amidst all the Frenchness we're pleased to partake of local beer, namely Purity's Mad Goose, although Nick is enjoying the chance to recline extravagantly rather more than befits a man of his exalted status! Next door, the Tudor House Inn looks closed but does have a portrait of King Henry VIII to accompany its impressive medieval timbered frontage. 

- West Gate -

Indeed, West Street is a charming thoroughfare with much architectural interest in general, rising past the Old Post Office micropub (still boasting a multitude of mounted animal heads and a comedy boot sticking out of the ceiling) to reach West Gate and Lord Leycester's Hospital. Our tour of the town centre then takes us to the Blue Note Bar for Slaughterhouse Sorachi in jazzy surroundings, and to the Warwick Real Ale shop on Smith Street. The latter establishment has an enviable selection of cans and bottles to delight any beer aficionado, plus it serves a few craft lines for on-site consumption. It seems only right and proper that we stop by for a glass of Brew by Numbers Citra Mosaic, sitting in the front window with a backdrop of Beano comic wallpaper. 

- A Plethora of Ronnies -

Nick always likes to have an unexpected Warwickshire wildcard up his sleeve and this trip will be no different. I've got my doubts as to whether he can find anything quite as mesmerising as Apehanger's or the Cellar Club but I should have known better - cue Ronnie's Bar, a slice of London cocktail culture here in the Midlands. The rambling interior extends into a variety of memorable spaces with water features, a covered courtyard and a liberal smattering of fake cobwebs, not to mention references to many famous Ronnies including Messrs Biggs, Kray, Barker, Corbett and Wood. It really is a visual spectacle and the Angry Orchards Hard Cider hits the spot too - Nick has really come up trumps yet again! All that remains is a swift half in the Wild Boar for old time's sake and wondrous Warwick has been just grand. Cheers!