Sunday, October 9

D9 does... the Black Country Living Museum

I know the pandemic may have warped my sense of time a little, but I can barely believe it's been over six years since I last visited the Black Country Living Museum. I made extensive use of my annual 'Unchained' pass between 2015 and 2016 but after that the heritage attraction had fallen off my exploration radar - that is until the Hub Marketing Board decided to update ourselves as regards the 'Forging Ahead' project...

- West Bromwich Corporation Bus -
Major changes are afoot at the Museum whereby 'Forging Ahead' will see the installation of another 22 historic buildings and structures on-site, including the former Woodside Library and Stanton's Music Shop. One of the flagship additions has recently opened - more of which later - so Mr D9 and I have earmarked Friday 7th October 2022 as our day for seeing what's been happening. My journey across through Dudley enables me to witness Midland Metro works digging up most of Castle Hill before I check out the Museum's new visitor entrance by the Bradburn & Wedge Garage. The Chairman is on his way but I get started with a few initial pictures, concentrating on the vintage GEA 174 ex-West Brom Corporation Daimler bus. 

- Tinkling the ivories in the Bottle & Glass -
Standard adult admission is £19.95 which is good value considering it covers you for the next twelve months, and I certainly intend to make full use of my ticket. Anyway, Mr D9 does arrive and is escorted by Terry, an old driving colleague who volunteers on vehicle maintenance. We wander down into the main village, passing a construction area where the steel houses are being relocated. Cradley Heath's Workers Institute bears testament to Mary MacArthur and the women chainmakers' strike of 1910, then at the far end of Canal Street we pop into the Bottle & Glass Inn, a boozer that used to be based in Brockmoor. Armed with pints of Bostin' Mild, we position ourselves in the refined parlour quarters which were once the preserve of mine owners and nobility, prompting the Chairman to practice his piano-playing technique.

- Purveyor of Wretchedness and Misery? -
Resisting the urge to sing 'Show Me The Way To Go Home' upon exiting the pub - we're far too sober for that! - we check out the Castle Fields Boat Dock where working narrowboats such as President are moored. Anchor Forge and the Rolling Mill recall industrial practices and we narrowly avoid getting admonished by the Gospel Car, although the Chairman is accused of spreading wretchedness and immorality - all in a day's work he says! Veal's Bakery is busy producing edible treats before we inspect the back-to-back cottages, discovering outhouse bathtubs and vegetable patches. There's certainly a lot to see!

- The Elephant & Castle -
Our principal target has to be the Elephant & Castle, an iconic Wolverhampton watering hole that has been lovingly recreated to considerable acclaim and is the inspiration for our visit. The original pub stood on the junction of Stafford Street and Cannock Road for many years and was well-known for its elephant figurine and tiled frontage, prior to being shamefully demolished in 2001. The new version is an absolute masterpiece, set in the 1950s with admirable attention to detail. Downstairs is the Vaults main bar and a Smoke Room while upstairs you have the Dining suite and Club Room. Bottles of Mann's Brown Ale add to the sense of nostalgia as we tour the interior and dry out from a sharp shower. 

- Rivalling Mr B in the Chip Pose Takes -
We thoroughly enjoyed our Elephant & Castle pit-stop but if anything the rain is only getting heavier, and Mr D9 has neglected to bring a coat with him. One positive aspect of the foul weather is that there isn't a queue at Hobbs & Sons fish and chip shop, meaning we can get served straight away and indulge in bags of gorgeous potato goodness, fried in beef dripping and liberally sprinkled with batter bits. The shop used to be located at 41-42 Hall Street in Dudley town centre and is always one of the Museum's most popular exhibits. Ultimately the downpour defeats us and we decide to move on, catching the 74 Daimler bus back up to the entrance but I doubt it'll be too long before we next grace the museum grounds. 

- Coseley, New Inn -
Splashing our way into Dudley town centre, we seek shelter in the Fellows just below the zoo and castle. This was for some years a Holden's boozer but is now separately owned, though it still stocks Golden Glow as a regular ale. A shiny suit of armour adds novelty value alongside framed portraits of stags and tigers in military attire, plus there's an almost Napoleonic panda. Brightening skies convince us to proceed to Coseley where our first port of call is Secretary WME's perennial favourite the New Inn, tucked away just off the Birmingham New Road. Black Country Bitter goes down well here while we listen to poultry-related silly songs, Ray Steven's clucking 'In the Mood' being paired with Leroy Troy's 'Ghost Chickens in the Sky'.

- Coseley, Apple Tree -
Our Coseley conclusion involves three other esteemed establishments in and around the Roseville vicinity. The Apple Tree is a Marston's offering in a dip below the main roundabout; Banks's Amber shall suffice as we admire stencils of local landmarks. Next is the Royal on Castle Street, packed out with a whole ensemble of characters including old boys keenly watching the racing channel. Last but not least is the Old Chainyard opposite Coseley's branch library, another lively haunt with a nice collection of gnomes in its back garden. Oakham Citra is a quality tipple on which to end matters, cheers to a great day out!

2 comments:

  1. I've never been to the BCLM - one to check out now I know they've got two pubs!

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    1. There are not many museums that can boast two fully functioning pubs Beermat and there's plenty to do at BCLM besides having a pint. The Elephant & Castle is a real labour of love and I have every intention of going back again soon. Cheers, Paul

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