Springing to Leek with Mr D9

Even after nearly twenty years of photographic activity, there are still parts of the wider Midlands region that I barely know. Take the Staffordshire Moorlands for example, an area I've neglected so much it forms a complete black hole in my archive. Leek in particular enjoys a glowing reputation as a prime pub destination so when Mr D9 suggested it for a Hub Marketing day out I literally jumped at the chance...

- Leek Bus Station -

I have to go way back to childhood Peak District rides to Buxton, Ashbourne and Dovedale for any previous encounters with Leek but even then any recollections are extremely hazy. The 11:14 train from Wolverhampton to Stoke gets us underway (complete with habitual D9 dash down Railway Drive past the tram extension works), before we wangle an instant Hanley link which brings the D&G number 16 route into play at midday. Availing ourselves of a £7 Knot ticket covering all of Staffordshire, we settle in for a sprightly jaunt via Bucknall, Ash Bank, Werrington and Cheddleton. Leek Bus Station turns out to be rather underwhelming, slapped on the side of a 1970s shopping precinct with minimal passenger facilities - even the closet is shut, much to the Chairman's considerable annoyance!

- The Nicholson War Memorial -

Time to get a few bearings as regards Leek Town Centre, proclaimed as the Queen of the Moorlands but living up to such a lofty title. Getting the grimness of the bus station out of our system, we admire the Nicholson War Memorial which was unveiled in 1925 and serves as the main town clock. Overlooking the same municipal square is the Talbot Hotel, which dates from 1878 and used to be a Banks's boozer prior to becoming a Premier Inn. The White Lion nearby is also no longer trading but we'll soon have active pubs in our sights, venturing along the A523 Ashbourne Road and passing the Well Street Gallery in a converted silk mill. 

- Masked Mischief in the Blue Mugge -

First up for our quaffing attention is the Fountain which we find tucked away next door to Leek Police Station. The cottagey feel is somewhat offset by a stern allover grey exterior but a Bass lamp offers a clue as to the delights awaiting within. Yes indeed, Secretary WME gets his wish for a prime pint of Draught Bass while the Chairman can savour his Burton Bridge Bitter and make the acquaintance of a bespectacled stuffed fox. If the Fountain had been a high class starter, we're blown away by the Blue Mugge on Osbourne Street. Nestled amongst a throng of traditional terraces, this is an unspoiled corner local par excellence with a hubbub of activity arranged around a central island bar. Her Majesty is so impressed she taste tests the Exmoor Ale although Mr WME is resolutely sticking with the Bass for the time being - superb!

- The Bald Spot lingers at Leek Library -

Those two tremendous taverns had taken us slightly out of town so we weave our way along Stockwell Street to undertake more sightseeing. A key discovery in this sense is Leek Library, based in the Nicholson Institute building with friezes depicting aspects of artistic endeavour. We pass the council offices as guarded by a reclining lion sculpture then ponder the quaint cobbled Market Square from afar, noting both the Red Lion and the Bird in Hand inns but not sampling their wares on this occasion. St Edward the Confessor's Church occupies a prime spot atop quite a hilly gradient, and the Green Dragon Wetherspoons is another watering hole that will go unvisited - there are so many to go at it's impossible to do everything. 

- The Church Street Closet -

One thing the Chairman is adamant we must investigate is the Church Street conveniences, an octagonally-shaped former toilet facility halfway down the hill - it isn't in active use anymore but the structure remains a distinctive feature at this end of town. From there we relocate to St Edward Street and the Wilkes Head, a Whim Ales outlet known for hosting live music festivals called 'Wilkestock' or 'Wilkestonbury'. We opt to make this our darting venue for the day albeit D9 Destroyer comes to regret that decision after suffering a 3-0 whitewash at the hands of WME Whirlwind; rumour has it the Secretary conjured up a genuine double 12 checkout with which to seal his victory. Respective pints of Hartington Bitter and IPA go down a treat as we enjoy the eclectic surroundings complete with Henry hoover, occasional cobwebs and a soundtrack that features Aneka's 'Japanese Boy'. 

- Cherry Porter in the Roebuck -

That number one hit from the summer of 1981 has a certain novelty value but is upstaged by our own silly song selections, whereby Mr D9's pick is Barbara Windsor (I'm Not That Kind Of Girl) while Mr WME unearths Binky Baker's Toe Knee Black Burn, a lyrical triumph containing just the same four words in varying combinations. Sheep Market and Derby Street lead us through the pedestrianised heart of Leek to find two more pubs that face each other across the pavements. The Cock Inn is run by Joule's and entices us in for a swift half of Slumbering Monk before we rustle up the Roebuck for some Titanic tipples; despite the Secretary's rather quizzical expression, I can confirm that the Cherry Porter was top notch!

- Benks, Stockwell Street -

As the clock ticks ever deeper into the afternoon, we retrace earlier footsteps to tick off a couple more places that weren't open at the first time of asking. Historically known as the Union Inn, Benks gets going from 3pm on Fridays and serves up yet more stunningly good Bass although the Secretary suffers a bout of vertigo when peering down into an old well, that'll teach him for being nosy! The Earl Grey also merits a mention back on Ashbourne Road, charming us with painted lettering and glimpses of ramshackle Amos garage gates. Leek has wowed us all day to be fair and topping things off is a classic old-fashioned chip shop on the junction of Fountain Street and Portland Street South; waiting outside as the chips finish frying feels like a communal event as eager folk join the teatime queue. 

- Hanley Handling with Woo Gary assistance -

All good things come to an end and sadly the time has come for us to leave Leek, although given the amount of stuff we weren't able to cover it's a surefire bet to suggest we'll return soon(ish). Our homeward steed is the number 18 bus operated by First Potteries, meaning we're getting good value from the aforementioned Knot tickets. After tracking the A53 through Longsdon, Endon and Baddeley Green, there's a bit of an estate wiggle come Sneyd Green to surface at the Sneyd Arms on the final run into Hanley. Once again we land an instant switch at Hanley Interchange, and the 25 is subjected to some reversing expertise as we trundle to Stoke Station and catch our Wolverhampton train. What a lovely day in Leek that was!