Saturday, September 4

Bears on Tour: Manchester 2021

Ah the thwack of leather on willow, how we have missed that ageless sound! Cricket has been played during these Covid-afflicted times but there's nothing quite like actually being at the ground as the drama unfolds. I have been back to Edgbaston since pandemic restrictions were eased, and now I can happily report on an away fixture as Warwickshire take on Lancashire at Old Trafford...

- First drink of the holiday -
Sunday 29th August 2021 sees Stephen, Mr B Senior and I journeying up to Manchester in advance of the game. The market town of Altrincham will be our base for the next few days, so with the Beardsmobile safely parked outside our Premier Inn accommodation, we set about exploring a locality that was historically within Cheshire but is nowadays one of the largest settlements in Trafford Metropolitan Borough. Licking our wounds after Wolves controversially lost to Manchester United at Molineux, we grab a pint in the Unicorn Wetherspoon's where a John Smith's shortage nearly causes serious grumpiness. Our favourite pub of the day has to be the Malt Shovels, a traditional Sam Smith's boozer near the railway station - the Old Brewery Bitter is definitely on form as we look forward to the contest ahead.

- Typical Manchester skies? -
Monday 30th August heralds the start of the all-important sporting action as we catch the Manchester Metrolink across to Old Trafford. Leaden grey skies shroud the scene as the Bears elect to bat and make respectable progress, compiling 259/3 thanks to centuries from Sam Hain and Chris Benjamin (the latter making his red ball debut for the club). Warwickshire have actually been doing well in four-day cricket this year and are in the mix to be County Champions having qualified for the top division as the season nears its climax. It was a less productive day for beleaguered Dom Sibley, dismissed for 3 as part of a new ball burst by home bowler Tom Bailey, but on the whole we are pleased with how things are going.

- The Navigation -
Monday's evening exertions involve a stop off at Sale, the town where Stephen and I stayed during our previous Manchester getaway in 2016. We didn't sample the Railway five years ago so it merits a look tonight as a Robinson's tied house just behind the Sale Waterside complex; Oasis tunes on a heavily-worked jukebox make for a very lively atmosphere here. A few stops further along the tram line is Navigation Road, the station also being served by Northern trains between Manchester Piccadilly and Chester. A dusky stroll along the street of the same name brings us to the Navigation pub so that Mr B Senior can indulge in his craving for John Smith's whilst watching a gruelling Warrington vs St Helen's rugby league fixture. 

- Linotype Works -
The navigation that both the pub and the thoroughfare refer to is the Bridgewater Canal, first opened in July 1761 before going on to link Leigh with Runcorn via Manchester city centre. Tuesday morning gives me chance to investigate the towpath between Seamons Moss and Altrincham Bridge, spotting evidence of the 1897 Linotype Works en route - this landmark Broadheath factory made typesetting equipment for the national newspaper industry although sadly one of the former buildings has been declared unsafe. Over at Old Trafford, the Bears batsmen seem unable to get out of first gear and it's a real struggle to get the scoreboard moving. Hain departs early for 118 with Burgess and Lamb subsequently dropping anchor.

- Bobby Charlton, Best and Law -
The lunch interval therefore comes as a blessed relief as we relocate to the 'other' Old Trafford, Manchester United's so-called Theatre of Dreams. Even though I haven't forgiven United for robbing Wolves on Sunday, it's a thrill to see one of the famous homes of English football. We undertake a loop around the Stretford End, say hello to the statue of Bobby Charlton, George Best and Dennis Law, and even note Lou Macari's chip shop on the main road near the stadium. The afternoon cricket is thankfully less attritional, Saqib Mahmood taking 4/77 as Warwickshire are dismissed for 371. The host's reply reaches 100/1 at the close as Luke Wells and Josh Bohannon build a painstaking partnership.

- Mr B Senior grapples his Guinness -
The bright lights of Manchester itself beckon on Tuesday evening whereby we can savour a trio of classic pub experiences. The Circus Tavern claims to have the smallest bar in Europe (the servery is little more than a shelf in the entrance hallway) and we share the back snug with some slightly eccentric theatrical luvvies. The Lass O'Gowrie has the kind of superb tiled frontage I'm always a sucker for, not to mention a crisp pint of Mobberley's Bunji 3.8% pale ale. As nice as that was, it gets upstaged by a cracking Titanic Plum Porter in the City Arms where we bump into a bunch of fellow Bears supporters and exchange observations on the match thus far. Stephen is happy enough with the situation on the field while John gazes lovingly at his glass of Guinness. 

- Sibley scores some runs -
Wednesday 1st September is all set to be a decisive day at the cricket - could either side seize the initiative? In short, no, because the teams are effectively cancelling each other out and a tame draw looks the likely result. For the record, Lancashire amassed 341 in their first innings with standout contributions from Bohannon (an excellent knock of 170) and Liam Norwell (by far Warwickshire's most penetrative bowler, claiming an impressive 6 for 57). The Bears are poised on 52/1 second time around as opener Sibley gets some much-needed runs but the consensus is that - barring a monumental collapse - there will be early handshakes sometime after tea tomorrow afternoon.

- Tatton Blonde in the Old Packet House -
The end of third day's play prompts us into a Brooklands breather, popping into the Brook (a JW Lees establishment adjacent to the Altrincham-bound platform). Sale Sharks rugby regalia is apparent here alongside the anticipated Man City/Man Utd representation, and for once it isn't Stephen creating a spillage when my knees are caught out by an unexpected table leg. Navigation Road is then called into action again for a chippy tea - steak and kidney puddings really do need to be added to West Midlands fish bar menus - and a couple more Broadheath boozers. The Railway beguiles us with Irish leanings, glorious Guinness and the T20 ladies match vs New Zealand, setting us up perfectly for an Old Packet House nightcap courtesy of a terrific Tatton Blonde very much befitting a place that's received Good Beer Guide recognition.

- Moss Lane Turnstiles -
Thursday 2nd September starts with a non-league nugget as I track down the Moss Lane base of Altrincham FC, founded in 1891 and currently plying their trade in the top tier of the National League. Cricketing concerns see the expected stalemate materialising very much as predicted, the Bears batsmen seeing out the day in relative comfort. This was despite the erstwhile efforts of spinner Matt Parkinson who bowled unchanged from the Brian Statham End and was rewarded with 4/94 and no doubt a very sore arm. The Warwickshire resistance was led by Sibley (57), Hain (48) and 36 not out for Matthew Lamb although it did feel farcical playing out the overs when the end result had long become inevitable. 

- The Bricklayers Arms -
All of which leaves us with the small matter of our final evening in Altrincham as punctuated by a few more pubs. Pi is a craft beer bar situated on Shaw's Road opposite the bustling Market Hall; we partake of Stubborn Mule's Absolute Banker here and feel right at the heart of the local nightlife. A nearby establishment to attract our custom is Kennedy's, a dedicated Irish pub that apparently has only been trading for a few months. Guinness is naturally our drink of choice as we witness some of the England goals going in against Hungary in the World Cup qualifying tie. Last but not least is the Bricklayers Arms for a pint of Wainwrights that just about beats the call for last orders, and we raise our glasses to a memorable five days. Cheers!

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