A Portion of Penkridge

I didn't realise it at the time but last Wednesday's 'Lost Pubs Part 15' posting was actually a milestone moment, marking my 800th such submission since the West Midlands Exploration blog began. Post 801 arrives with equally as little fanfare to tell us of a trip where Stephen and I popped across to Penkridge...

- The Monckton Centre -

Friday 11th September 2020 necessitates a Wolverhampton rendezvous so that Mr Beardsmore and I can catch the 10:22 Lime Street train. The journey to Penkridge takes all of eight minutes, not even enough time for my glasses to stop steaming up with facemask fumes, and upon arrival we investigate what treats may lie in wait beyond Penkridge Station's overflow car park. Both the Hatherton Hotel and the Monckton Recreation Centre have an edge-of-village location off Pinfold Lane, with the latter facility acting as a base for the local rugby club. 

- VJ Day Wreath at Penkridge Memorial -

Further amenities on Pinfold Lane include a busy medical centre and one of the entrances into Penkridge Market (for which the main trading days are Wednesday and Saturday). The Peace Memorial Hall dates from 1926 and serves as a popular meeting venue whereas St Michael's & All Angels is altogether older, the present church having commenced construction in the early 13th century. Church Road is where we find the village war memorial complete with poppy wreaths commemorating the 75th anniversaries of VE Day and VJ Day.

- Poised above the River Penk -

After circumnavigating the churchyard (a location that can provide truly timeless views when seen from the platforms above), we ponder the glum main frontage to Penkridge Station - the old stationmaster's house stands shuttered up and devoid of purpose even though it has been given a new lick of paint. Stephen tries his best to get entangled in some holly bushes on St Michael's Road but extricates himself in time for pictures of the Littleton Arms and the White Hart, two of Penkridge's most distinctive coaching inns. We can then pause to admire the River Penk with the familiar arches of the 1837 railway viaduct as a backdrop. 

- The Star says "Stay Safe" -

The shopping heart of Penkridge is to be found on Crown Bridge and along Market Street, with a selection of traditional independent stores such as Dickens of a Tea Shoppe and Jasper's Bakery. Market Street itself is bookended by pubs, the Horse & Jockey being at the bottom of the road with the Star at the top (next to St Michael's C of E First School in fact). We confirm that the old gaol-turned-heritage centre is closed for the time being due to Covid, meaning Stephen narrowly avoids incarceration and is free to study the Star's rather striking mask-themed mural encouraging residents to stay safe - amen to that!

- Draught Bass (in a Hobgoblin glass) -

As tempting as the Star is, another watering hole waits in line to be our refreshment stop today. Getting there involves a combination of Francis Green Lane and Princefield Bridge before the towpath of the Staffs & Worcs ushers us neatly to the Cross Keys, a boozer which is about as unspoiled as a canalside pub can get. Vintage red M&B block lettering sets the scene as a quaint beer garden looks out over Filance Bridge, then inside I'm delighted to spot a certain red triangle lurking among the pumpclips. The Draught Bass did not disappoint one iota - even allowing for the Hobgoblin glassware - and a bit of Beardsmore cricket chat made for a perfect pub experience, complete with Rosie and Sam painted barge buckets. 

- Lyne Hill Bridge -

Our analysis of Warwickshire CCC and Wolverhampton Wanderers prospects continues when we rejoin the towpath, bearing south-eastwards to encounter Cross Keys Bridge (Wolgarston Way) with Lyne Hill Bridge thereafter. Estate surroundings gradually give way to field vistas with horse paddocks and a sleepy marina, making this a pleasant stretch to wander along despite the best efforts of the M6 to elicit a distant traffic hum. The sun somewhat grudgingly has decided to put in a brief appearance and it almost feels like summer again.

- Otherton Lock -

Our canal exploration ends at Otherton where a team of strimmers are busy getting to grips with some overly long grass. Otherton Lock seems as nice a place as any to stop awhile for lunch - cue Jasper's sausage rolls getting the Stephen seal of approval - prior to Otherton Lane Bridge prompting Beardsmore recollections of frozen-off fishing contests several years ago. The lane offers a gentle route back into Penkridge, passing Willows Farm and scattered hamlet cottages to emerge on Boscomoor Lane below the community fire station. It's then just a simple case of catching the 14:16 train home and our portion of Penkridge has been polished off in style - cheers!