Stratford-upon-Avon

The beer festivals are coming thick and fast as attention now switches to Stratford-upon-Avon's offering being held at the town's racecourse. Towpath Turpin has transmogrified into the Bard of Beer as we seek out tracks, tramways and traces of Shakespeare...

- Train at Stratford -

Dorridge is our rendezvous on this occasion, meeting aboard the London Midland train from Birmingham to Stratford via Solihull. This connection is a relatively recent addition to the timetable, supplementing the existing link via Shirley and Henley-in-Arden, and was instigated in 2013 to serve the recently opened Stratford-upon-Avon Parkway at Bishopton. I therefore get my first ever glimpse of the new station, and a couple of minutes later our Class 172 arrives into Stratford's main station where I always enjoy admiring the period GWR features.

- Railway Remains -

Stratford-upon-Avon is a terminus stop these days but for many years was a main line through station on the GWR from Birmingham Snow Hill to Cheltenham. Our first mission today is to explore some remains of the lost line, hence Navigator Nick takes us on a wander via back passages, Summerton Way cycle routes and ultimately The Greenway. Here the old route is retained as a linear walkway towards Milcote and Long Marston. Besides the GWR, Stratford was also formerly served by the Stratford-upon-Avon and Midland Junction Railway and we investigate a little of this courtesy of a path running eastwards towards the River Avon. 

- Shakespeare's Resting Place -

The Old Town district of Stratford is next on our agenda, the area being home to Holy Trinity Church where the revered playwright William Shakespeare is buried alongside members of his family. The church can be a tourist hotspot so we were lucky to call in at a quieter time in order to visit the great man's grave - there were some wonderful stained glass windows and carved wooden misericords to admire too. Old Town is also where we find the New Bulls Head, a welcoming backstreet pub that also incorporates a community shop. Here Nick continues his recent predilection for blondes by way of Cameron's Galactico, an ale I was happy to join him in sampling.

- Stratford Racecourse -

More nifty navigation via Old Town Mews then brings us neatly to Stratford Racecourse, our festival venue for the afternoon. A public right of way stretches across the racetrack although you do have to limbo under some of the white plastic rails that mark out the route taken by the horses. There are views of the grandstand and some neighbouring flats as we make our way to the turnstiles and enter the festival. £10 gets you programme, glass and tokens as we find a perch in an upstairs room where there are boxes upon boxes of pumpclips to peruse. 

- Dazed and Confused -

As you might expect, there are plenty of interesting ales to pick from. I personally begin with a Paddington (hints of honey and marmalade) before proceeding via Fuller's 1845 (festive hints of nutmeg and fruit) to a Lancaster Black and a Leyden's Crowning Glory. Nick's dalliance with the blondes appears to be over however as his ale selections here confirm a return to the dark side. He embraces the chance of being Comfortably Stout, battles through a Bramble Stout and ends up totally Dazed and Confused!

- A Costume Change at the RSC -

With our tokens all spent it is time for more Stratford sightseeing with a riverside walk leading us to the renowned theatre of the Royal Shakespeare Company. A browse inside reveals costume displays and an exhibition of banknote boats, not to mention a regal suit of armour. Nearby we have further transport heritage to explore too, crossing the former tramway bridge where a horse-drawn service once operated to Moreton-in-Marsh. The Bear at the Swans Nest is a respected real ale free house where the Bear Bitter does nicely for a half in the hotel lobby catching up with the cricket scores.

- A Falstaff Finish -

The old tramway lend its name to one of the other local pubs as we pass a butterfly farm and pause for some Cumberland Ale. Back on the town side of the Avon, we make the acquaintance of Falstaff at Bancroft Basin Gardens then include a Henley Street homage to Shakespeare's birthplace (from grave to cradle in a few short hours). Last but definitely not least is the Stratford Alehouse, a micropub on Greenhill Street that keeps things simple with great beer and fine conversation as our closing port of call before the 19:05 train home. Cheers!