- A First Look at Looe -
Saturday 28th March: The journey down to Cornwall takes about four hours with a slog along the M5 followed by glimpses of Tavistock and Gunnislake. We arrive in Looe at about lunchtime to find our cottage on the steep Barbican Hill - it's going to be an energetic few days walking up and down the street. Looe is a town of two halves either side of the harbour and connected by a historic stone bridge. East Looe has the main shops and railway station while West Looe is a little quieter but both have a picturesque prettiness.
- Looe Station -
Sunday 29th March: A wet and windy day on the Cornish coast means it isn't really worth travelling too far so Sunday is spent locally getting to know Looe a little better. Although the weather is foul, you can still appreciate the rugged beauty of the area as the rainy gusts sweep in from the sea. Looe's collection of pubs offer some shelter and a chance to sample some Cornish ales including Proper Job in The Globe and Tribute in the Ship (later in the week we would also enjoy the Old Salutation with its shark-fishing gallery and the low beams of the Jolly Sailor). As the elements ease, I take my first look at Looe station where the single platform sits next to the river as the outer terminus of the Looe Valley line from Liskeard.
- Seal Sculpture Scene -
Monday 30th March: Conditions are altogether brighter on Monday as I enjoy an early morning stroll - it's fascinating seeing the town gradually coming to life with businesses getting ready for the day's visitors. Mid-morning involves a family walk from West Looe to Hannafore Point where the coastguard's hut looks out towards Looe Island. Another feature keeping watch over the tidal comings and goings is a statue commemorating 'Nelson', a much loved (and much missed) one-eyed seal who regularly appeared in Looe Harbour seeking a fishy lunch.
- Safe Harbour at Fowey -
Monday afternoon brings with it a ride out to Fowey (pronounced 'Foy'), a place I remember from childhood holidays mainly because of the steep walk from the main car park down to the harbour. That approach remains little changed but the exertion is worth it for the chance to explore the narrow cottagey streets where landmarks include the King of Prussia (a bright pink quayside inn) and the Parish Church (accompanied by daffodils). Back up the hill a little way is the Safe Harbour, a landmark pub that serves as the bus terminus for the 24 route linking Fowey, St Austell and Mevagissey. We round off the day in the Barbican, a friendly local estate pub at the top of the hill in East Looe where we attempt to play darts with Mom beating Dad in the grudge decider!!
- Liskeard Station -
Tuesday 31st March: a day to let the train (and the bus) take the strain, making use of the £5 Looe Valley Explorer day ticket to go to Liskeard and back via Polperro. The Looe Valley line is a gem of a branch railway, complete with riverside vistas and seemingly resident local characters to add extra personality. There are a handful of intriguing halts along the way (Sandplace, Causeland and St Keyne) although Coombe Junction is the most memorable as the driver changes ends to bring the train into Liskeard, where the line terminates at a detached bay platform. Liskeard itself is a historic stannary town with plenty for me to investigate including the Guildhall, the cattle market, Webb House and St Martin's Church.
- Polperro Harbour -
After a goulash lunch, we're off to Polperro courtesy of the 573 bus route which tackles many narrow winding lanes, hills and sharp bends. St Keyne village and Duloe feature, as does a reverse turn outside West Looe's fire station and a similar manouevre at the Camping Caradon caravan site. Alighting at the Crumplehorn we can then savour the delights of Polperro in the sunshine; I visited some captivating places over the course of the week but this was arguably my favourite with picture postcard views at every turn. Add in a pint of Sharp's Own in the Blue Peter Inn and it was altogether rather perfect.
- Newquay Train at Par -
Wednesday 1st April: There was no fooling about as Wednesday was my designated day for tackling the wider Cornwall rail network armed with the excellent value of a £10 Ride Cornwall day rover ticket. I retrace Tuesday's ride to Liskeard where I connect onto a main line service for Penzance. I alight however at Par (partly to escape the stench of a flooded toilet) where the station serves as the junction for the Newquay branch, cue for a bonus train photo or two. A steady stroll around the small centre reveals the Royal Inn, the Par Inn, a branch library and a scout hut although I don't venture quite as far as the beach and harbour.
- Falmouth -
From Par I continue on to Truro where I pick up the Maritime Line branch down to Falmouth Docks. This is another journey to savour, calling at Penryn (where there is a passing loop) and Penmere before the two Falmouth stations (Town followed by Docks). Falmouth is renowned as a deep-water harbour and the docks are currently managed by the A&P Group. I glimpse some of the cranes and an adjacent marina before wandering into the main town, seeking out shots of Custom House Quay, the Moor and the Prince of Wales Pier. I also found time for two pubs - the Front is a quayside bar where I supped some Skinner's Heligan Honey while the Seven Stars is an unmissable Cornish time capsule serving ale straight from the cask and with distinctive curiosities including a coffin hatch and a keyfob collection.
- Holy Trinity, St Austell -
Thursday 2nd April: the last full day of the holiday puts the focus firstly on St Austell, one of the largest towns in the county. We came here during a holiday back in 2004 and I could remember the joint railway/bus interchange but not that much about the town itself. I certainly added to my knowledge this time around, most notably attempting various angles depicting Holy Trinity Church while the White Hart, the Stag and the Hop & Vine were all pubs clustered close to the churchyard. As for the interchange, the tired bus stands I recall from 2004 have been replaced by a more modern stops positioned directly next to the railway booking hall, while the old lattice footbridge connecting the station's platforms is intact but no longer in public use.
- Mevagissey Harbour -
A short drive from St Austell is the fishing village of Mevagissey, cue for yet more quay and harbour roaming. It's a delightful place to explore on a bright spring afternoon but I imagine it would be altogether different in the bleakness of winter. I investigate the craggy lanes either side of the main quay, climbing up onto the coastal path for a higher vantage point - you don't get views like this in the West Midlands!
- A Study of Seagulls -
I was also keen to capture some of the closer detail on the quayside, from the buoys and netting to the creels and other assorted fishing equipment. A couple of beady-eyed seagulls seem to be intent on keeping me company, that is until they spot some nearby fish and chips and I'm soon left in peace! Besides the harbour, Mevagissey's attractions include a model railway and the Fountain pub.
- Banjo Pier -
Friday 3rd April: the Easter weekend is underway although Good Friday is also my day for saying goodbye to Cornwall. Before the homeward trek I squeeze in one final lingering look around Looe, pausing on the windswept Banjo Pier to breath in the sea air before the last climb up Barbican Hill. It's been a great holiday, getting to see part of the country I rarely visit and developing a taste for hake, proper Cornish pasties and traditional cream teas!
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