Few explorational rules are set firmer in stone than my autumnal visits to Coventry, whereby the Sky Blue city usually registers one October or November trip on an annual basis. Over the last ten years, these have been in the guise of a Hub Marketing blast but Mr D9's current spell of recuperation means I'm going solo this time...
West Midlands Exploration
Buses and beer, railways and recollections, pubs and photography, canals and cricket: The quest to discover and document the West Midlands and surrounding areas continues...
Wednesday, November 20
The Coventry Caper 2024
- Tile Hill Station Sign -
Alas there won't be any daft quiffs or Rock & Roll singalongs this year (sorry!) but I am still intending on good solid exploration with a pint or two thrown in. To that end, I make my way via Birmingham International to Tile Hill railway station as my nominated starting point; I first came here back in 2004 when the level crossing was still in situ instead of the current road overbridge. The little ticket office hasn't changed much, except maybe for a lack of Thomas the Tank Engine colouring sheets, while the housing enclave of Penruddock Drive and Alan Higgs Way is firmly bedded-in on the site of the former Midlands Sports Centre.
- Tanyard Farm Terminus -
The opening leg of my walk basically involves reacquainting myself with a couple of turning circle termini I remember fondly from documenting previous Coventry bus network reviews. Torrington Avenue corner retains its lay-by stop at the junction with Station Avenue (the 2/A and 18/A being the routes calling here nowadays), then on Goodman Way is where the 6/A lands up on the Tanyard Farm estate. Elsewhere, I note that the Bell pub is now calling itself the Auction House and boasting that it has the best beer garden in Coventry - quite a claim!
- Tile Hill Wood -
Emerging onto Banner Lane, I proceed towards Eastern Green by passing the light industry of Wickmans Drive. There has been a lot of activity in this area since I last visited, including the creation of a sprawling new housing estate; indeed, Wain Homes are currently putting the final touches to their Hillwood Gardens plots with showhomes trying to entice would-be purchasers. Tile Hill Wood meanwhile is declared a Local Nature Reserve covering circa 70 acres mainly composed of deciduous and coniferous woodland with spruce, larch and hazel species to the fore. It is one of four such preserved green spaces locally, the others being Pig Wood and Plants Hill Wood (both off Tile Hill Lane), plus Limbrick Wood (south off Jardine Crescent).
- The Penny Farthing -
Further along Banner Lane, I reach the heart of what has become known as Bannerbrook Park, that cluster of modern residential living arranged around Astoria Drive, Jefferson Way and Monticello Way. All of this land used to be part of the Massey Ferguson tractor works, which itself had started out as a shadow factory built during the Second World War for the manufacture of Bristol Hercules aircraft engines. The modern setting presents a shopping parade (Spar, Subway, pharmacy, chip shop) next to which is the Penny Farthing pub, a Marston's offering under their Generous George stable. A quick check inside confirms they serve a decent pint of Pedigree (£4.45) and have growing demand for Christmas bookings.
- Eastern Green Cottages -
The Penny Farthing might not be the most exciting pub in the world (or even in Coventry) but it seems to fit the brief of satisfying its target catchment well enough, so I hope the pensioners enjoy their festive lunches in due course. I progress along Broad Lane into Eastern Green, an area I always associate with Metrobus rides on the old 10 and 11 routes. The map suggests the suburb is split into Upper and Lower segments although I've tended to think of it as one combined place really. Anyway, the Unicorn falls under the 'Upper' bit and is a Greene King Hungry Horse establishment that keeps itself slightly detached from the adjacent lane. I can't see any cask ale at first glance so a Strongbow suffices whilst watching the ATP tennis finals.
- The Newlands -
Retracing my steps along Eastern Green Road with hints of Unicorn Lane cottages, I rejoin Broad Lane as it closes in on the centre of Coventry. Several of the streets around here have arboreal names including Beech Tree Avenue where many of the semi-detached properties have distinctive pebbledash-effect frontages. This is quintessential West Midlands suburbia now, gritty in appearance with blocks of shops that would not win many beauty contests. Up ahead, the Newlands (Hotel) is part of the Sizzling chain and seemingly rammed on a Friday afternoon even if part of the attraction is lost on me. Admittedly I can admire some 1930s architectural flourishes, especially the barley twist brickwork columns either side of the main entrance, and it has proper roadhouse credentials; it just didn't stand out as particularly organised and the Thornbridge Jaipur was on the insipid side so I'll reserve judgement.
- A Canley Station Conclusion -
Tile Hill Lane has me circumnavigating a busy retail park to intercept Herald Avenue, home to the Standard Triumph Recreation Club as an extra nod to the city's automotive pedigree. I spy Carlsberg branding and a Standard Bowls arrow but don't investigate further on this occasion; my train is imminent at nearby Canley railway station and I need to negotiate Dolomite Avenue and a wide-tentacled passenger footbridge to safely reach the Birmingham-bound platform. Thus ends my Coventry Caper for this year, hopefully Mr D9 will be back on duty in 2025!
Labels:
Coventry,
Eastern Green,
Tile Hill
Saturday, November 16
Four Do Four in Birmingham
It's been a quieter patch of late for the Chip Foundation with nothing much to report since the Beardsmore Senior Tribute outing in July. Something approaching normal service is however resumed when the four of us - Nick, Ken, Stephen and myself - sample four of Birmingham's finest hostelries on a mid-November Monday evening...
- Bass Lamp at The Woodman -
Our first port of call is the Woodman down by Millennium Point, a pub which has become a familiar friend to us over the years so we were delighted to hear it had recently reopened after a worrying spell of closure. Its close proximity to Millennium Point and the Birmingham City University campus should work in its favour but there has been a lot of disruption in Eastside due to HS2 and Midland Metro developments which had undoubtedly impacted passing trade. The good news is that the place appears to be as good as ever with all its heritage charms intact, including the Smoke Room tilework and frosted vestibule windows. I'm particularly pleased to see that Draught Bass is now permanently on sale here, with accompanying lanterns to match - an opening pint of that goes down very smoothly while we discuss Presidential happenings in America and Nick's recovery from a broken elbow.
- Polygon Publications at the Eagle & Ball -
The Woodman might be close to the BCU facilities but the Eagle & Ball is entirely engulfed by educational buildings, to the extent that it is physically attached to the main Curzon Library (a trend I'd be happy to see recreated at other institutions, every academic library should have its own on-site boozer). Our resident royal gets very nostalgic when reminded about his studying days back when BCU was known as Birmingham Polytechnic and based at Perry Barr; framed covers of Polygon, the in-house student magazine during the 1970s, line the walls and make for a fascinating snapshot of social history.
- Did someone mention free crisps? -
I first remember encountering the Eagle & Ball when it was an abandoned Banks's number called Moby Dicks, standing in splendid isolation whilst everything else around it had been cleared for redevelopment. The changes in the vicinity of Gopsal Street, Penn Street and Cardigan Street have been dramatic but the pub has survived to become an integral part of campus life, operated by the current BCU Students Union. We have a thorough snoop both upstairs and down before finding a table to continue our political ruminations, Ken pondering his initial impressions of the Labour Government since the General Election. One unexpected bonus is being presented with complimentary crisps, Beavertown having produced the 'Open Up' free snacks in conjunction with the Campaign Against Living Miserably as an initiative to help new students talk about their stresses. Stephen might not be miserable but the cheddar and jalapeno flavour isn't his favourite, hence several scrunched-up facial expressions.
- Woodcock Street Swimming Mural -
Two down, two to go and next up we'll be switching campuses to assess the evening offer over on the Aston University side of Jennens Road. Getting there involves a short walk via Woodcock Street, noting a classic roadworks typo about not continuing "beyond this pint - how appropriate!! - then passing the Sir Doug Ellis Sports Centre. This facility began life as Woodcock Street Baths, one of the oldest operating pools in Britain, and has been under Aston's stewardship since 1980. Alongside the swimming possibilities, there is sauna and steam room provision all housed in an impressive Edwardian edifice dating from 1902.
- The Sacks of Potatoes -
As for our third pub, the Sacks of Potatoes is twinkling on the Gosta Green horizon where it faces out across the landscaped piazza towards Aston Business School and the Reception buildings. Promoting itself as a traditional free house, I'm intrigued to see three Lilley's Ciders on draught whereby Nick and I both opt for the rum-tinged concoction - it's rather nice! A menu majoring on loaded fries is subjected to our usual brand of scrutiny, Ken unconvinced as to whether anything called 'Cheesus Christ' would be a delicacy or not. Leaded windows and a sepia gallery of archive scenes ensure that my heritage-seeking boxes are suitably ticked, and there's a steady murmuring of custom to give this place enough Monday atmosphere.
- Two Towers Mild in an M&B glass -
Our final landing point awaits in the Gun Quarter so we skirt around the edges of Lancaster Circus in the shadow of the former Central Fire Station. The Gunmakers Arms is a venue we know quite well, being the Two Towers Brewery tap and with something of an artistic streak. Hockley Gold, Complete Muppetry and a Mild are the three cask wares available this evening, the latter of those looking most appealing when dispensed into a vintage M&B Brew XI glass - it even has the word 'Secretary' on it in honour of my Hub Marketing status! We conclude our current affairs discussion with further Donald Trump-focused insights - there are interesting times ahead shall we say - but as long as we have good pubs and good company I would hope there will still be things to look forward to. Cheers!
Sunday, November 10
The Kidderminster Beer Festival 2024
The Beer Festival bandwagon has taken a while to get moving in 2024 but is steadily gaining momentum courtesy of visits to Hereford and Wolverhampton during the summer, followed by the trio of Tamworth, Shrewsbury and Codsall once autumn leaves started to fall. Next up is a repeat visit to the Kidderminster event held once again in the shadows of the Aggborough football stadium...
- Kidderminster Station Frontage -
Trip Log: Saturday 9th November 2024 and a persistent blanket of anticyclonic gloom (not a weather term I'd heard of until this last week) has camped across the West Midlands skies for what seems like an age. Things may be very grey but at least it's dry as I make my way over to Kidderminster via Smethwick Galton Bridge. I know I'll be struggling to get decent pictures because of the overcast conditions but that won't stop me trying a few snapshots of Kiddy's twin stations, i.e. the mainline stop and the adjacent Severn Valley Railway terminus.
- GWR Clock in the Severn Valley Booking Hall -
Talking of all things Severn Valley, they aren't running a timetable today but the concourse and museum are open to visitors so I can scout around in the booking hall looking for interesting artefacts. One GWR-era clock is a good start and some memorial wreaths have been laid out too, whilst three large bags of glittery tinsel suggest their Christmas decorations will be going up imminently. Period advertisements for Lloyd's News and Webb's Seeds (the latter being perfect for growing prized potatoes apparently) add to the bygone charm while volunteers in oily overalls cheerfully bid me good morning en route to their locomotive preserving activities.
- The East Terrace -
After a few years at the Town Hall, Kidderminster Beer Festival switched venues in 2023 to be hosted at the Kidderminster Harriers Social & Supporters Club; I was impressed with the set-up twelve months ago hence being keen to return today. Hoo Road soon has me homing in on Aggborough where preparations are underway for the match against Farsley Celtic later this afternoon (Harriers would win that 1-0 thanks to a goal from Ben Beresford). I'm here for the beer of course although a picture or two of the ground won't hurt, especially with the East Terrace having a rusty corrugated throwback appearance.
- The Festival Kit -
As was the case last year, the festival admission package costs £15 and the ale action is mainly focused upon the large function room once I've been assigned a green wristband. My opening half is of Green Duck's 'Sitting Duck', a quality golden ale from Stourbridge's finest. Some of the darker stouts and porters have already sold out - those are the perils of attending these things on the Saturday session - so I progress through RCH's 'East Street Cream' (a 5% premium bitter with chestnut tones) followed by Bewdley's 'Sunshine'. The last of those means I have now seen some sunshine today after all, and proves a nice 3.8% zingy session beer.
- Cob and Reading Material -
The stage is being set for a Morris dancing demonstration of some description as I shift my focus onto the cider offering. 21 tipples of an apple or pear persuasion are available which is plenty to be going at; I just try two of them, namely Heck's 'Slack-Ma-Girdle' and Barbourne's 'Major Jane'. Both of these are listed as dry ciders and they have a certain tartness that tests out my tongue's powers of resilience but I find myself growing to like them with every passing sip. A cheese and onion cob for lunch is accompanied by reading matter in the form of Pint Taken, the Worcestershire CAMRA newsletter which I always enjoy perusing.
- The Land Oak -
With five halves quaffed and all tokens spent, I do my usual trick of seeking out a previously unvisited local establishment to round off the afternoon. My choice this year is the Land Oak on Birmingham Road, a corporate Marston's roadhouse I must have passed countless times during caravan rides to Stourport or cricketing journeys towards Worcester. It's a longstanding landmark, built in the 1930s I believe when the Chester Road was widened, and is serving a fairly standard combination of Wainwright, Hobgoblin and Banks's Amber. Although done out inside, I quite like the zigzagging chimney breast and dedicated games area, plus it seems popular enough with local families. With that I hustle on back to Kidderminster Station, ears primed for Molineux goalflashes as Wolves secure their first Premier League victory of the season against Southampton. Three points, a pub tick and a fun festival = a great few hours!
Sunday, November 3
A Scarborough Story
The bracing breezes of the North Yorkshire coast are murmuring to us as Stephen and I spend a few days in Scarborough. Mr Beardsmore will be celebrating a big birthday over the coming days so we've booked a coach holiday getaway in order to celebrate...
- Scarborough Cricket Club -
Our story begins on Monday 28th October 2024 with the journey north, being picked up from Wolverhampton's Faulkland Street coach station at half past ten. Daish's Coaches are our company of choice for this particular holiday and their Yorkshire offering is the Esplanade Hotel in Scarborough's South Cliff district, perched high on the headland overlooking the seafront gardens and the town centre. After a steady journey up via the M18 and A614, we arrive circa half past four with time to spare before our evening meal. One Scarborough location we're keen to see above all others is the local cricket club on North Marine Road; Warwickshire were due to play there in 2020 but the Covid pandemic put paid to that, so we hope that the fixture list will give us another festival billing here before too long.
- St Mary's at Dusk -
Evidence of Scarborough's rich and varied history is very much apparent, from the craggy ruins of its medieval castle to its importance as a fishing port and subsequent growth as a Victorian seaside resort. Although darkness is setting in rapidly now that the clocks have been put back, we navigate our way around North Bay to find St Mary's Church and then inspect the quayside, a curious mixture of penny arcades, hot dog models and moored up trawlers. Mealtime at the Esplanade allows us to make the acquaintance of our fellow guests before we pick out a couple of evening drinking options courtesy of the Lord Rosebery (Scarborough's Wetherspoons as named after a former Prime Minister and serving £1.99 discount ales on a Monday) followed by the Cask Inn (a community pub and jazz venue under threat of closure).
- Blands Cliff Mural -
To Tuesday 29th October 2024 and our first full day of North Yorkshire investigations. I'm up bright and early to see more of Scarborough's seafront attractions, chief among which is the cast iron elegance of the Cliff Bridge as erected in 1827. Its duck egg blue railings lead neatly on towards the Grand Hotel and an intriguing Victorian tramway operation which comes in handy given the amount of steps one would otherwise need to climb. I then spy an artistic treat on Blands Cliff in the form of an extended set of murals all along the length of a steep cobbled slope. Apparently these were painted by various groups of local creatives between 2001 and 2004 as part of a regeneration initiative.
- Class 170 train at Bridlington -
Mr B and I have nominated Bridlington as our preferred Tuesday destination hence - after a decent Daish's breakfast - we make use of Northern Rail's 'Duo' deal which gives discounted tickets for two people travelling together. The train ride to Brid passes through Seamer, Filey and Hunmanby, taking just shy of forty minutes. I'd not been to Bridlington for the best part of thirty years but it remains a perennial East Riding favourite for holiday-goers and daytrippers. The railway station retains buffet signage and chiselled booking office lettering, while there are sprawling beaches either side of the main harbour.
- Meeting a Bridlington Puffin -
Our seafront stroll takes us firstly out by the local leisure centre and then back along the pier, finding the 'Gansey Girl' sculpture paying tribute to the local knitting tradition undertaken by families of fishermen who would craft thick sweaters to keep their men warm out at sea. Two contrasting drinking establishments are next for our attention, although sadly my preferred pick - the Three B's micropub, in the running for CAMRA's National Pub of the Year award - doesn't open on Tuesdays. The Moon steps into the breach instead, serving up a liquorice tinged nice pint of Aitcheson's Endike Black before we test out the Bridbrewer & Taproom bar which brews all of its own ales on the premises - I can vouch for the Trick or Treacle porter!
- The Cobbler's Arms -
An ongoing police incident has decimated the afternoon timetable on the Scarborough to Sheffield branch line although we do drop reasonably lucky (given the wider disruption) in catching a train back to Filey. Knowing that I once spent a family holiday at the Crows Nest caravan park, I had anticipated forgotten Filey memories suddenly flooding my mind but in truth not much seemed familiar apart from Cargate Hill as the main approach route to the beach. Stephen is pleased to get acquainted with an 8ft tall trawlerman whilst I'm equally as excited to track down the Cobbler's Arms, a dog-friendly micropub based in a former shoe shop on Union Street. Here I get sniffed out by a docile whippet when partaking of Wantsum Imperium, a solid Best Bitter brewed using Kentish hops.
- X93 to Whitby -
With the train service still heavily impacted by delays, we end up catching the bus back to our hotel and the same mode of transport also comes up trumps for our Whitby Wednesday. The 30th October is Stephen's actual birthday so it seems highly appropriate to go all gothic for the occasion, although we do resist any instruction to wear black clothing. The X93 route is a long distance service linking Scarborough with Middlesbrough via Robin Hood's Bay, Whitby and Guisborough; operators Arriva are applying the capped £2 single fares so we settle on the top deck for a scenic journey which contains more than its fair share of hilly bits with tight twists and turns. We can see Whitby Abbey on the horizon as we near the town's bus station.
- The view from Whitby's West Pier -
Given Whitby's literary links to Dracula and its longstanding support for goth culture, the town really comes into its own at this time of year. The lead up to Halloween and the town's Goth Weekend in early November mean there is an extra spookiness in the air, which explains the plethora of spiders, witches and pumpkins at almost every turn. We nip our way along East Terrace to see Captain Cook's Memorial Statue (unceremoniously topped with a very brazen seagull) then promenade along the West Pier in all its planked glory. We've been enjoying a fine week weather wise but the overcast conditions only add to the effect here, ensuring we are seeing Whitby's unique rugged charm without the sugarcoating sunshine can bring.
- St Mary's, Whitby -
No visit to Whitby is ever complete with a look around the eastern half of the town where the harbour is equally as beguiling on the far side of the River Esk estuary. One particular act of pilgrimage we must make is to ascend the famous 199 Steps up to St Mary's Church and the mournful remains of Whitby Abbey, even if we're far from being the only ones making the notorious climb. My long legs cope with the exertion reasonably easily but Stephen doesn't enjoy the return walk down the cobbled lane much at all - he is getting older though so I must show some sympathy!!! On the pubs front we're spoiled for choice really but I'm more than happy to try out the Plough (a Samuel Smith's oasis of calm on Baxtergate wherein I sample the 3.4% Dark Mild) and the Waiting Room, a compact bar housed within the railway station.
- Scarborough Spa -
The week is whizzing by at a rate of knots and Thursday 31st October is now upon us with the promise of Pickering. The morning light across Scarborough Bay is utterly gorgeous so I'm out early with my camera again trying to do the place justice, focusing on The Spa conferencing and entertainment venue as designed by the architect Sir Joseph Paxton. I can well imagine how it would have been highly fashionable to drink the spa waters here; apparently the Prince of Wales would have been a frequent guest during its Victorian heyday. The accompanying South Cliff Gardens zigzag their way across the piece and I enjoy getting zooms of the multicoloured beach huts further out towards White Nab.
- Pickering, St Peter & St Paul -
And so to Pickering we proceed, making use of the number 128 bus service as run by East Yorkshire. The full route continues to Helmsley but the hour-long bit we get to savour is an all time classic ride taking in several stunning villages such as Snainton and Hutton Buscel. On his part, Stephen gets excited about Thornton-le-Dale because Mathewson's car auctions is based here (as seen on the Bangers and Cash television series). Alighting on Eastgate, our initial Pickering perambulations cover Smiddy Head, the Market Place and the Parish Church of St Peter & St Paul. I have fond memories of staying in the town twenty years ago and it hasn't changed all that much, a nice skip down family holiday memory lane.
- Departure time at Pickering -
Pickering serves as the inland eastern terminus of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, a preserved heritage line which gained added popularity due to appearing on 'Heartbeat' for many years. Originally opening in 1836, the railway became a victim of the Beeching Cuts in the mid 1960s before commencing its current charitable status in the 1970s; more recently it has been possible to extend services beyond Grosmont to terminate once again at Whitby. I loved Pickering Station in 2004 and it's equally as enchanting now with the scent of coal smoke on the breeze and a guard's whistle pre-empting the next locomotive's departure.
- Anne Bronte's Grave -
Two Pickering watering holes take our fancy whilst we're here, namely the White Swan (a food-focused coaching inn serving Black Sheep Bitter) and the Bay Horse (a bulge-fronted Market Place mainstay where I try the Bradfield Farmer's Blonde). The 128 shows up early for our return ride to Scarborough, meaning we're well placed to track down Anne Bronte's Grave within St Mary's Churchyard - the youngest member of the Bronte family, Anne died aged 29 but her legacy lives on in the novels Agnes Grey and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall. Our final Scarborough evening allows time for a couple more pints, one at the Frigate micropub as it nears its second birthday - only the twelve(!) Lilley's ciders available here - and the other at the Leeds Arms tucked away in the Old Town with its gallery of fishing memorabilia. Come Friday 1st November we're homeward bound for the West Midlands once more but it has been a lovely few days away with many happy returns to Mr Beardsmore. Cheers!
Labels:
Bridlington,
Pickering,
Scarborough,
Whitby
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