The half term holidays combined with the Platinum Jubilee celebrations provided an ideal opportunity for a WME family getaway. It was therefore Destination Dumfries and Galloway as we spent a relaxing few days in the south of Scotland...
- Southerness Lighthouse -
Just as the motorway gods had been kind during the recent Bears on Tour visit to Headingley, so they consent to a smooth M6 passage during the long drive up from the West Midlands. Our base for the week is the small coastal resort of Southerness, situated just over 16 miles south of Dumfries. The village is home to some sprawling caravan parks but is mainly noted for its historic lighthouse which used to guide trading boats safely along the Solway Firth. Although the facility is no longer operational - it was decommissioned in 1936 - the lighthouse remains an impressively rugged landmark and becomes my photographic muse for the week.
- The 19th Hole -
Monday 30th May is predominantly a day for getting our bearings, whereby Southerness offers seashore walks towards either Carsethorn or Mersehead (the latter being an RSPB reserve). The beach mingles rockpools and mudflats with sandy stretches which together prove popular with inquisitive holidaymakers, as indeed do the local drinking establishments. The 19th Hole is part pub part cafe and shows live sports as well as holding regular karaoke sessions whereas the Paul Jones is a restaurant bar named after the founder of the American Navy. We draw a blank finding any cask ale so Belhaven Best will be our adopted tipple here.
- Castle Douglas Cattle Market -
Come Tuesday 31st May we've settled into our accommodation and are ready to explore the wider area. Our first stop is Castle Douglas, designated as Scotland's 'Food Town' because of its commitment to local produce. An immediate discovery is Wallets Marts Ltd who operate the cattle market and are seemingly in the process of selling some sheep; livestock auctions have taken place weekly on this site since 1888. Various coaching inns catch my camera's gaze including the Imperial, the Crown and the Kings Arms although I won't be partaking of any pints at this point. I also spot the Sulwath Brewery HQ before pausing for pictures at Carlingwark Loch, a beauty spot that boasts a wide variety of birdlife.
- Mytilus at Kirkcudbright -
From Castle Douglas a short drive via the A711 brings us to Kirkcudbright, a name confusingly pronounced kir-coo-bree as if to catch out uninitiated Wulfrunians! Parking by the Stewartry Museum, I'm keen to see the harbour area down beside the River Dee estuary - two of the boats moored up are Mytilus and Arcturus from Belfast and Ballantrae respectively. A Royal Burgh since 1455, the town has a reputation for attracting creative artists and there are many sculptures to be investigated outside the visitor information centre or back at the museum.
- Kirkcudbright War Memorial -
Another of Kirkcudbright's principal features has to be MacLellan's Castle, a fortified tower house that was designed with domestic comfort rather than dramatic battles in mind. Sadly the castle is currently out of bounds due to ongoing masonry inspections so I have to admire it from afar, simultaneously offering a nod to the town's war memorial complete with depiction of a sword-wielding warrior. In other news I'm pleased to report better luck on the real ale front, the Kirkcudbright Bay Hotel coming up trumps when serving Five Kingdoms Rebus, a limited edition session pale that makes for quality quaffing in the back snug.
- Devorgilla Bridge, Dumfries -
As May gives way to June, Wednesday 1st sees me dabbling with Dumfries and I can hardly think of a finer place in which to spend my birthday. A two-hourly bus link from Southerness is available (the 372 route as operated by Houston's Coaches) but we stick with the car, pulling up by the six sandstone arches of Devorgilla Bridge. Dumfries stands on the River Nith and is a county town of considerable importance - it's colloquial name 'Queen of the South' will be recognisable to anybody familiar with the Scottish football results.
- Burns' House -
Dumfries has proud links to two of Scotland's national heroes, namely Robert the Bruce and Robert Burns. The former was responsible for the killing of the Red Comyn at Greyfriars Kirk and would go on to become King of Scots, defeating the English at Bannockburn; the latter is a famed poet and cultural icon who was living in the town at the time of his death in 1796. Indeed, Burns's former residence is now preserved as a museum and his mausoleum can be visited in St Michael's Churchyard. I enjoy surveying some of this rich history as well as taking a stroll along the High Street, passing Burns's statue and the Midsteeple.
- The New Bazaar -
Aside from the sightseeing, Dumfries proves productive in terms of pub contemplations. The aforementioned Robert the Bruce lends his name to the local Wetherspoons (surely there can be no greater tribute?) wherein we partake of a Scottish breakfast, the best bits of which were the crispy black pudding and a square potato scone. As enjoyable as that undoubtedly was, it gets upstaged in my affections by the New Bazaar on Whitesands overlooking the river. The building is Victorian in origin and the small public bar is alive with conversation as I collect a top notch pint of Theakston's XB. The place is up for sale so I hope it survives intact.
- Southerness Lighthouse -
Thursday 2nd June is our last full day in Scotland and we decide to soak up a little more of the Southerness jubilee atmosphere. Many of the caravans are decked out in Union flag bunting and the Queen herself (in cardboard cutout form) puts in numerous appearances too. Bright holiday skies are ideal for getting even more pictures of my favourite lighthouse and we're otherwise content strolling the beach trying not to get tripped up by slippery seaweed. The afternoon has us watching test match cricket in the 19th Hole and the homeward drive then awaits us on the morning of Friday 3rd. The holiday was over all too quickly but that quiet little corner of southwest Scotland has certainly left a lasting impression - cheers!
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