Aberystwyth: A Welsh Weekend

Apart from a few hours there en route to and from Fishguard in May/June 2018, my main memories of the Ceredigion coastal resort of Aberystwyth hark back to family camping trips in the early 1990s. I'm in need of getting to know the town much more, and who better to guide me than university alumnus and Aber superfan Jane over the course of a Welsh weekend...

- Marine Terrace -

This Cambrian saga commences on Friday 18th July with the journey across from the West Midlands, 'Puppy' the Woolfcar being deployed to excellent effect coping with the twists and turns of the A458 between Shrewsbury and Welshpool. Our opening stop is at Machynlleth to meet Kate, James and Alison, allowing Jane to start several days of reminiscences as we make introductions and catch up over a bite to eat. We make sure to pop into the bookshop where Kate works (the Literary Cat, quite a treasure trove) and peruse family artworks on display at the town's museum, a lovely few hours indeed. It's then onwards to Aberystwyth where we check into our Premier Inn accommodation and get some initial seafront bearings courtesy of a sun-blessed stroll along Marine Terrace.

- Kicking the Bar -

Aberystwyth has a long and varied history having hosted Iron Age settlers and been protected by a Norman castle. Nowadays it attracts West Wales holidaymakers during summer months as well as being a noted seat of learning due to the presence of the local university, formerly a constituent college of the federated University of Wales. Most of our itinerary for the weekend involves reliving some of Jane's formative student experiences, and there's one tradition she insists on almost immediately. Apparently it is custom to 'Kick the Bar' - touching the far railing at either end of the promenade - in order to guarantee good luck on your course and ward off evil spirits from the town's ghostly gallows. A more personal Jane ritual is to go for a paddle in the sea, although in this case the waves bite back by drenching the Woolf derriere.

- The Ship & Castle -

An amble through the castle grounds gives time to dry off slightly before we launch into Aber's Friday evening nightlife. We're saving the full student-centric crawl for Saturday so our aim is to cover a more discerning selection of pubs and hostelries in the hope of finding quality beers and ciders. To that end, the Ship & Castle gets us off the mark in great style, yielding Salopian Living the Dream Pale Ale and Sussex Seacider. The gaffer here has recently celebrated 20 years at the helm and we like the varnished seafaring galleon mural in the far snug. Keeping to those lofty standards will be difficult - as a brief Carling in the Vale of Rheidol can testify - but we also strike gold in the Bottle & Barrel, a microbar on Cambrian Place. Here the locally brewed Two Rivers Aur is one of my standout pints of the weekend, while Miss Woolf is just as enamoured by the Gwynt y Ddraig Perry Vale perry. The place is absolutely rammed due to a works reservation, and gets even fuller when students in golfing visors descend for added fun.

- Yr Hen Lew Du -

The Bottle & Barrel wasn't around during Jane's degree years but - believe it or not - there are some longserving establishments that she never set foot in despite being resident in the town for the best part of five years. One notable gap in her repertoire had been Yr Hen Lew Du (the Old Black Lion) so we correct that with a sampling of Old Crow cider, powerful stuff at 7.4%. A trio of further relative newbies round off the evening in leisurely contentment, hence we chat to the on-site brewers at Mashed over an informative half of stout, then catch some of the Real John Lewis's rockabilly performance at the Bank Vault (he's quite a character mixing Eddie Cochran covers with his own compositions like the 'Botox Boogie'). Saving arguably Jane's favourite for last, we pitch into Ty Seidr where the range of ciders on show is truly impressive. What would you have out of Pheasant Plucker, Lilley's Tropical, Bee Sting or Gladiator?

- View from the Consti -

Friday had been a lot of fun and yet we still have the main event to come, so I warm up for Saturday's endeavours by climbing Constitution Hill at the northern tip of the promenade. My liking for quieter morning strolls means I'm too early to hitch a lift on the Cliff Railway (778 feet long and operational since 1896, it has carriages named Lord Geraint and Lord Marks). The views are spectacular even on a relatively grey day, and there's a Camera Obscura on the top for added novelty value. The coastal path to Clarach and Borth also ascends the hill in a very serpentine fashion for those feeling especially energetic. As much as I like the idea of doing the five miles to Borth, there's the small matter of a Full English breakfast to attend to. 

- A Gorgeous Frog? -

Said breakfast is obtained at Jane's recommendation from the Home Cafe on Pier Street, one of the regular spots where the younger Woolf would meet her fellow would-be graduates. The combination of bacon, eggs, sausage, black pudding and pictures of paddling elephants is a definite winner, lining the stomach for the challenge ahead. Without delay, we duly make it to Yr Hen Orsaf Wetherspoons where the student crawl can begin in earnest over a solid Loddon Hullabaloo or a Black Dragon cider. So far so good but the next place fills me with trepidation; for weeks in advance I've been hearing about the Cambrian and their legendary cocktails, so lo and behold I find myself trying to fathom wall upon wall listing various concoctions in the form of rounded disc-like illustrations. The 'Squashed Frog' of the mid-2000s is alas no longer on the menu but a 'Gorgeous Frog' can achieve the same kind of result; it's drinkable enough with a highly dubious greeny-blue colour but we both live to tell the tale. 

- Woolf on the Pier -

Neither the Mill nor Rummers are trading at the moment - the latter being a harbourside haunt that is attempting to recover from storm damage - so the Angel gets bumped up the listing for a heavy metal-tinged half sitting below a cricketing poster. We arrive at the Royal Pier perhaps a little earlier than we'd anticipated but it's all good; we can sit out on the boardwalk section trying not to get dive-bombed by ravenous seagulls, as well as checking out the contrasting bars upstairs and downstairs. The first floor version has 8 ball pool tables and murals of Welsh sporting legends from Ray Reardon to Gareth Bale; our turn on the beize ends in stalemate, one frame each after I accidentally potted the black too early. Down below, the Inn on the Pier has stained glass detailing and cinematic tip-up seats, plus artistic ceiling patterns which reference the starling murmurations of Aberystwyth sunsets. 

- Coopers Arms Hotel -

One university activity we definitely won't be recreating is a visit to Pier Pressure, a nightclub facility which now plays host to a children's bouncy castle - I'm slightly relieved about that, and Jane gets nostalgic merely being in the room again. We take a break from the crawl to indulge in Pink Cow ice creams which we think are made in Aberdyfi; their flavours are very tempting from honeycomb to salted caramel to mint chocolate chip to rhubarb. After relaxing back at the hotel for a while, we're ready for a steady Saturday evening session ticking off more haunts. Cwps (or the Coopers Arms) makes an impression as a bit of a timewarp place closest to the Halls of Residence. Felinfoel's Double Dragon drinks very nicely here, sitting in the lower snug with Jane holding court from throne armchair corner. Much of the surrounding conversation is in Welsh so I might need to brush up on my understanding of the native language, which currently amounts to knowing that 'moron' = carrot!

- Aberystwyth Castle -

Saturday concludes at Ty Seidr again - so good we had to visit more than once - over a few games of Guess Who, my successes at deducing Jane's mystery characters making up for the earlier pool mishap which robbed me of a precious victory. Sunday morning then dawns bright and clear, just perfect for surveying the ruins of Aberystwyth Castle in more detail. Built during the reign of Edward I and having seen its fair share of Welsh uprisings, the concentric layout had towers, wards and a moat in an overall diamond-shaped plan. It's fun clambering over the rubble stones before heading down to the adjacent quayside, noting the Harbour Master's offices and eyeing up pictures of craft 'Look Lively' and 'Spoof II'. 

- Machynlleth Station -

With Jane's day being dedicated to churchy stuff and meeting up with more old friends, I treat myself to a ride on the Cambrian Coast railway line, something I've always wanted to do. The 10:29 departure for Shrewsbury therefore click-clacks its way via Bow Street and Borth before flanking the southern reaches of the River Dyfi estuary, such beautiful scenery. By the time I arrive in Machynlleth the weather has clouded over somewhat, although I nevertheless enjoy getting more to grips with the Ancient Capital of Wales. This notable claim to fame stems from Owain Glyndwr having held his Welsh Parliament in the town back in 1404 but my focus is mostly on getting pictures of the railway station and clock tower (built via public subscription to celebrate the 21st birthday of Charles Stewart Vane-Tempest, the Viscount Castlereagh). My pub pick meanwhile is the Wynnstay Arms coaching inn for Grey Trees' Black Road Stout.

- Borth Seafront -

Passing through it in the morning, Borth was an itch I needed to scratch even if I only end up staying for a rain-affected hour. One long street hosts two pubs - the Victoria and the Railway - plus a bungalow post office and a sprinkling of guesthouses. At one point the properties back directly onto the pebble beach with little stile barriers before you can perambulate atop the glistening grey stones. Borth railway station faces out towards open fields and has a single platform so be mindful of the Direction of Travel sign; Wills Gold Flake advert enamels add a vintage feel alongside flowerbed running boards - there is also mention of a museum which preserves the station fabric but only opens a couple of afternoons each week. 

- Seagull Spotting -

With Jane having returned from her Llanbadarn Fawr lunching, we reconvene in Aberystwyth at half past four and plot out our final hours in Wales. The Glengower (or Glen for short) is a must, being a place she occasionally frequented with colleagues from the English or Celtic Studies courses; in fact, we sit in the selfsame window she remembers from years hence, looking out across Cardigan Bay as dusk begins to fall. Monday morning heralds an Athro Lounge natter with Alison over coffee, pondering the eclectic ex-schoolhouse's approach to nick-nacks amidst a litany of tasselled lampshades. Having debated a wide range of topics from student life to artificial intelligence to the primacy of original printed sources, we bid the Welsh coast farewell with one very last Pink Cow dairy treat and pose beside cheeky artworks of seagulls sporting daffodil headgear and clutching rugby balls. The West Midlands beckons again but that Welsh weekend in Ceredigion has been brilliant. Cheers!

A Wednesfield Workout

Where would the Hub Marketing Board have been this year without our occasional Evening Blasts? Full - or even half - day meetings have proven trickier to arrange, but much essential business can be conducted during a three hour speedy session as this full throttle tour of Ashmore Park and Wednesfield will testify...

- Feeling Thirsty? In a word... yes! -

Hasn't the weather been hot again recently? We seem to have been subjected to successive heatwaves with temperatures nudging 32 degrees at times; I enjoy the blue skies but suffer as soon as the heat starts to get too stifling. Heading into Wolverhampton, a 'Thirsty?' sign seems to have read my mind as regards needing refreshment, so thankfully I know there should be a few drinks to be had when the Hub Marketing Board is in session. Mr D9 has suggested a Wednesfield area remit to continue our recent focus on Wolverhampton outposts - game on!

- D9 drives the 59 -

The Wednesfield Road corridor through Heath Town and New Cross is particularly well served for bus routes, no doubt on account of making the local hospital as accessible as possible. We require the number 59 to Ashmore Park which operates a very regular frequency for much of the day, heading through Wednesfield Village and then along the A4124 Lichfield Road as far as Peacock Avenue. The Chairman reminisces about driving duties on the 559 (back in the days when most Wolverhampton routes had that extra '5' prefix) and encountering gaggles of grannies outside the bingo, but this time around he concentrates on hi vis-skirted steering. We join Griffiths Drive to the strains of 'The Lonely Goatherd', the Ronnie Ronalde version of the song featuring some very enthusiastic yodelling segments.

- Griffiths Drive Baldness -

Still with that classic from The Sound of Music ringing in our ears, we alight for the Rogers Close stop at the top end of the Ashmore Park estate and beat an urgent path straight to the True Briton on Snape Road. This is a box boozer straight out of the Banks's mould with the building said to date from the mid-1970s. Most of the regulars are huddled together watching the nail-biting conclusion to the Lords test match, England eventually taking the last Indian wicket to seal a 22 run victory but it was mighty close. The pub is unapologetically a haunt for locals but has a nice community atmosphere to go with a vintage bin that catches the D9 eye. Perhaps the Chairman could have used it to protect his exposed bald spot from sun rays?

- Checking out the Ashmore Park Hub -

Topping up our tans, we proceed along Acorn Road and Ashmore Avenue where it is Mr D9's turn to declare his daft ditty of the day. Cue much 1970s campness courtesy of Larry Grayson and 'Shut That Door', a composition inspired by the comedian's notorious catchphrase. It only takes a few minutes for us to resurface on Griffiths Drive near the possibly disused Corpus Christi Social Club (with hints of Banks's branding through the overgrown bushes). A photocall outside The Hub at Ashmore Park is a must; this important amenity acts as a library, sports hall and community centre all rolled into one although the Secretary can very fondly recall working at the previous branch library closer to the shopping precinct.

- The Lancaster (formerly the Albion) -

The Ashmore pub is next on the agenda, its car park having partially been sacrificed to allow the creation of a Co-op store a few years ago but at least it is still going. Considering Mondays are usually a quiet day for the trade, this place seems very popular and we enjoy joining in with some pool table banter as two old chums merrily exchange insults. Apparently the Sticky Bingo (whatever that entails!) is due to start imminently so we - probably wisely - relocate via Linthouse Lane to the Lancaster on Lichfield Road. The Secretary always knew this as the Albion when he was growing up but the change of name references a wartime plane accident when a bomber crashed nearby in May 1945, sadly claiming the lives of seven crew members. Theakstons Tarmac meets Carling here as we briefly repose by a barrel table. 

- An Angelic Finale? -

The turn-up-and-go credentials of the 59 bus are fully tested as we breeze back into the heart of Wednesfield and avail ourselves of more thirst-quenching hospitality. The Dog & Partridge stands at the Neachells Lane end of the High Street and boasts historic beams plus a huge blackened fireplace that looks like it ought to belong in a museum. Ringwood Fortyniner here precedes a Monday Club cheap pint at the Royal Tiger Wetherspoons - you can't argue with Byatt's Cosmic Jungle at 5.9% for £1.76 can you! - then we round off at the Angel, possibly more against our better judgement but friendly enough to offset our worst dive fears. Cheers!

Lost Pubs from the WME Archives #40

Life begins at 40 or so the saying goes but when you're dealing with the Lost Pubs Series, reaching my fortieth posting doesn't feel like anything to celebrate. Sadly for these five bygone boozers, any life was sucked out of them when their final closures were confirmed, so no new beginnings just archive reflections I'm afraid - let's see which ones get an airing this time around...

- The Craven (Arms) -

The wheel of watering hole fortune has spun us two from Coventry and three from Telford on this occasion, so let's commence with the Coventry duo. Woodway Lane over in Walsgrave was the setting for the Craven Arms, which appeared to have dropped its Arms suffix at the time of my picture. I never went in it but it always had the air of a presentable backstreet number whenever I happened past on the Potters Green bus, which admittedly wasn't especially often. The site is now occupied by apartments. 

- The Black Horse -

My other Coventry contender was something of a Spon End mainstay with heritage charm, so - with apologies to the Craven - I'm even more disappointed I never sampled a drink here. The Black Horse was a plain but homely three-storey affair that potentially traced its history back over 200 years, maybe even before that; I'm told it had a particularly lovely Victorian lounge that had been stripped out by a developer when the place permanently shut down. Alas, a road widening scheme to ease congestion in the area meant it was demolished in January 2023 and there's no coming back from that!

- Cross Keys Inn -

To Telford then, where we'll firstly pay homage to a much-lamented Hadley hostelry. The Cross Keys Inn could be found on Haybridge Road, not far from the local shopping parade or the sprawl of brown concrete footbridges which always seem to define the district in my own mind. I missed out on this one too (including when it was latterly renamed as the Queen Vic for no obvious reason) but my Dad might have been in a few times during his GKN Sankey days. Now it functions as a Polish and Eastern European shop with a car wash on the side.

- The White Lion -

If the Cross Keys is at least still standing albeit with that change of use, the same fate sadly doesn't apply to the White Lion at Ketley. A Banks's boozer with a long whitewashed frontage, it stood on Holyhead Road virtually opposite the community centre with which it formed an excellent pair of landmarks. I can't vouch for the veracity of this, but it is said that the pub might have dated back to 1661, and the Sainsbury's store which subsequently replaced it includes a panel referencing that year as a nod to this lost heritage. 

- The Alexandra -

And so to the only pub of these five that I have actually frequented, whereby the Alexandra in Oakengates appealed to me as a traditional homely mid-terraced number on Slaney Street - in short, my kind of place given its focus on cask ale and conversation. Unfortunately those fine credentials couldn't prevent it from shutting forever in 2018, with the result that the premises has since been converted into a private house. Such a shame!

Bears on Tour: HOVE

Warwickshire's 2025 cricketing season so far can be summed up as being solid without pulling up any trees, so while the Bears remain in contention on all fronts it would take something remarkable to win any honours. County Championship duties now resume after a T20 Blast hiatus and the next stop for Mr B and myself will be Sussex for some South Coast sunshine...

- Worthing Station -

The match will be played at Hove - a ground we haven't visited for thirteen years - but we're actually staying eleven miles away along the coast at Worthing, a refined seaside resort with a residential air about it. The journey down is something of an ordeal with our initial train having to be diverted via Stafford due to an incident near Coventry, and our onward connection from London Victoria being disrupted by a lineside fire. We make it to Worthing Railway Station eventually though and get our local bearings en route to checking in at our Travelodge accommodation on Marine Parade.

- Worthing Pier -

Luggage dropped off at Room 202 and a bit of necessary freshening up performed, we head out to see the sights of Worthing. The beach is all pebbles with little in the way of sand but the promenade is nevertheless an inviting place to be, a gentle breeze offering some relief from the very warm temperatures - and things are set to get hotter! Worthing Pier first opened in April 1862 and is made out of iron with traditional wooden planking; there is an amusements arcade halfway along and an elegant domed bar room at the far end. The Pavilion Theatre is equally as eyecatching as part of the same stretch of seafront, then we branch off to find the main shopping thoroughfare (Montague Street, with a variety of your standard High Street chain stores) whilst Warwick Street is populated by various bars.

- Hare & Hounds -

Our initial pick of the pubs involves the Three Fishes for food (this local Wetherspoons being named for the trio of fish that appear on Worthing's corporate coat of arms), followed by the Corner House on High Street, a place which claims to have the best beer garden in town and we're not inclined to disagree. After being treated to a dancing spectacle and some 90s rave tunes, we finish our first day in Sussex at the excellent Hare & Hounds. Tucked away along Portland Street, this is a 2025 Good Beer Guide entrant where the Harveys Sussex Best is every bit as good as I'd hoped for. A warm welcome encourages us to stop and watch the England U21s beating Germany in the European Championship finals. A cracking night!

- Lunchtime, Day One -

And so to the actual cricket, commencing at 11am sharp on Sunday 29th June. Hove is only a twenty minute train ride from Worthing so we're soon at the ground, as indeed are many other people taking advantage of the free admission. The resultant impressive attendance creates a lovely family atmosphere as Warwickshire win the toss and elect to bat first. Rob Yates and Alex Davies make a very solid start until the latter holes out for 37, but at 113/1 at lunch Mr Beardsmore is a reasonably happy bunny. The only downside to his demeanour was a slight collision with an unexpected speedbump whilst I was distracted eyeing up an ice cream van!

- The Essential Ice Cream Van -

Said Mr Whippy is doing a brisk trade with the thermometer readings climbing sharply for the rest of the day. Cones with flakes are critical sustenance as we watch the Bears innings unfold with Yates and Sam Hain the chief run-getters (93 for the opener and 87 for our middle order mainstay). 372/7 at the close of play is healthy enough although the suspicion is that the pitch is very good for batting and we might not quite have cashed in. Sunday night back in Worthing is then spent sampling the Rose & Crown - a friendly Craft Union boozer on Montague Street - and JB's Bar, where we endure a mixed bag of karaoke performances. One guy belts out 'An American Trilogy' with great gusto (we didn't mind him at all) but the less said about the rendition of 'Little Willy' the better. Our eardrums are still traumatised!

- West Worthing Station -

Me being me, I like to squeeze in aspects of exploration around the cricket and pubs. As such, Monday morning has me venturing along Marine Parade and Grand Avenue into the suburb of West Worthing which has its own railway station - and an impressive one at that, dating from 1889 with an Italianate main frontage (I note that a corresponding station at East Worthing is very much an unstaffed halt with basic platform shelters and little in the way of architecture). Tarring Road has a Co-op, a sequence of other shops, the Conservative Party constituency offices and tempting cafes, plus the Foresters micropub so it's a distinct community for sure. 

- Sussex Building Steadily -

Resuming our watching brief at the County Ground - only this time from the Sharks Stand as opposed to the Cromwell Road End - we can witness the end of the Warwickshire first dig on 415, a cameo of 24 from Ethan Bamber being enough to bag an extra batting bonus point. The hosts' reply is all about laying firm foundations without too many flourishes, so there are relatively few wicket-taking opportunities for the Bears bowlers. Australian off spinner Corey Rocchiccioli looks the most dangerous by a distance and claims the three scalps to fall, as well as bemusing everybody about how we should pronounce his surname. Sussex opener Daniel Hughes had ploughed his way to 151 before being pinned lbw with the day's last ball.

- Railway Hotel Refreshment -

Stephen declares himself to be fairly content at the match position and you can never moan too much about the joys of watching cricket in the sunshine. Monday evening's entertainments entail pubs at either end of our train ride; the Station is literally next door to Hove's awning and taxi rank, and apparently used to be called the Cliftonville Hotel. I partake of their own-badged Station Pale Ale (refreshing enough on a hot day) before we switch to Worthing and try out the Railway Hotel straight outside the station's main entrance. I was seriously impressed by this one, mostly on account of its Victorian heritage appeal but that's not to downplay the quality of more Harveys beer. It still operates as a functioning hotel business too, 35 rooms bookable.

- Rocchiccioli Spins His Web -

Day three at Hove sees Sussex piling on a sizeable total, albeit not with any huge urgency. Their overnight 278/3 is converted into 533 all out, James Coles joining Hughes in getting to 150 to press home the advantage. The Warwickshire bowlers really toiled in the heat, with the luckless Hannon-Dalby sending down 30 overs for no reward. There were a couple of strikes for Bamber who bowled one miserly spell, but the biggest threat again came from Rocchiccioli who deserved his 6/173 through sheer persistence across a mammoth 54.4 overs, I know I'd be absolutely shattered! The Bears are 118 runs in arrears and have knocked off 88 of those for the loss of Yates as the game drifts towards a seemingly inevitable draw.

- The Watchmakers Arms -

Tuesday's liquid libations mostly come courtesy of two very enticing micropubs. Goldstone Villas, just down the road slightly from Hove Station, is home to the Watchmakers Arms which is Brighton & South Downs CAMRA's 2025 Pub of the Year. It's easy to see why: they brew their own ales on the premises, including my choice of Elderflower, and also try to cater for a range of tastes with stouts, milds and ciders available. As for Anchored in Worthing, they pride themselves on supporting Sussex producers hence the presence of Silly Moo Cider from the Trenchmore Farm of Cowfold near Horsham - gorgeous stuff! A 'Bring Your Own Vinyl' night is underway so we enjoy the husky strains of Tom Waits followed by Northern Soul; the pub is on Montague Place, literally in the shadows of the Giant Wheel attraction on Worthing Seafront.

- Hain Holds Firm -

There is technically still some jeopardy on the game as Wednesday 2nd July heralds the last day of the Hove fixture. Sussex could theoretically push for victory if they manage to grab any early wickets, but Alex Davies and particularly Tom Latham look resolute either side of a rain delay and it's soon apparent that the draw is the likeliest outcome. When both are dismissed (for 58 and 69 respectively), Sam Hain takes it upon himself to nullify the home attack when amassing an unbeaten 53* without stroking a single boundary. Honours even then and hardly the most thrilling of finales in truth; even the ice cream van didn't bother turning up!!

- Harveys in the Hare & Hounds -

A meandering draw keeps both sides firmly mid-table in County Championship Division One and we've had a superb time irrespective of the outcome. Our concluding night in Worthing yields one more pub discovery in the form of the Egremont (or the 'Eggie') on Brighton Road, once owned by the Kemptown Brewery with Wine Office and Dolphin Ales. Quirky fixtures and fittings include a light montage fashioned from brass instruments and a French advert for foie gras. They're preparing for a quiz night but we've already committed ourselves to attending the Hare & Hounds equivalent, whereby Bears On Tour finish a respectable third despite our limited recognition of excerpts from the musicals. Cheers, and Come On You Bears!