Rail Rover Week 2024

Yes it's back! After a couple of false starts when the dates didn't quite work, my annual interrogation of the Heart of England railway network reclaims its rightful place on the WME exploration calendar. Three intense days of adventure await, covering far flung destinations in Derbyshire, Worcestershire and Cheshire...

- Gregory Tunnel (Cromford Canal) -

I've gone with the three-in-seven day Flexi Rover option this year, which at £109 is good value provided you get the mileage in. To that end, a trip along the Derwent Valley line sounds ideal so I meet Nick at Birmingham and we travel north to Derby (even allowing ourselves a cheeky morning tipple in the Brunswick, always one of HRH's favourites where a quick slurp of Black Sabbath really hits the spot). Our first full destination is Whatstandwell, a small village on the A6 which acts as our gateway to the Cromford Canal. Brightening skies encourage us along the towpath for discoveries such as Gregory Tunnel - roughly 73 metres long - and Wigwell Aqueduct, carrying the canal over the aforementioned railway line. 

- Cromford Mills -

Further treats await in the form of Aqueduct Cottage (guarding the short Nightingale Arm), Leawood Pump House (which originally started operating in 1849), and High Peak Junction where the canal historically would interchange goods with the railway towards Whaley Bridge. There's a lot of industrial heritage in this area, chiefly on account of Sir Richard Arkwright's endeavours in setting up Cromford Mills as the world's first water-powered cotton factory. We peruse their visitor centre before heading into Cromford Village itself for a refreshing stop at the Boat Inn; the pub is totally inundated with coachtrip diners but there's just enough space for us to partake of Draught Bass (or Olde Peculier should you be of that persuasion) while pondering posters detailing execution arrangements for the notorious felon Dick Turpin. 

- An Iceberg Encounter in Matlock -

Hitching a ride on the Little Sixes bus route as run by Trent Barton, we proceed into Matlock which is the Derwent Valley line's northern terminus. The town functions as an administrative base for Derbyshire County Council while the neighbouring settlement of Matlock Bath is a respected spa resort. A happy afternoon is spent accounting for three Dale Road hostelries all within a very short distance of each other, starting with bod as another outlet in the growing list of Titanic Brewery cafe bars. Having each survived our combined collision with an Iceberg, we make the acquaintance of a Remarkable Hare (supping Thornbridge's Importance of Being Pale Ale surrounded by pumpclips) and Twenty Ten, where Nick's regal leanings ensure the King George Bitter is readily selected. All three establishments are highly recommended.

- Belper, briefly -

Eager to extract every last drop out of the Derwent Valley area, we can't resist a Belper Bonus especially given that Nick had never visited the town before. Quite how much of an impression it can make in little under an hour is debatable, but the short and sweet nature of our sojourn will be fondly remembered for finding Arkwright's Real Ale Bar on Campbell Street. Anywhere serving North Riding's Chocolate and Fudge Porter (a.k.a. liquid cake) will instantly earn our affections forevermore, what a delicious beer that is! The Railway meanwhile managed not to get completely overshadowed, offering Lincoln Green hospitality that is handy for the station.

- Evesham Station -

If Monday was dedicated to Derbyshire, and Tuesday had me bidding a sad but very fond final farewell to Mr B Senior at his funeral, I'll now focus on Worcestershire Wednesday for which my eyes are fixated solely upon Evesham. Set on the banks of the River Avon, this delightful town is served by the Cotswold Line between Worcester, Oxford and London Paddington; the GWR carriages seem a step up in passenger comfort compared to what I usually experience in the West Midlands. Evesham Station first opened in 1840 and still retains much original architecture as well as having a community garden on the Oxford-bound platform. 

- Evesham Abbey Bell Tower -

No visit to Evesham is complete without having a look around the Abbey Gardens, which I'm pleased to see have been the subject of much restoration work in recent years. The Abbey itself was founded in the early 8th century and was of a Benedictine association prior to the dissolution during Tudor times. The fabulous Bell Tower was thankfully spared destruction and continues to dominate the Abbey precincts along with All Saints Church and the adjacent St Lawrence's - now there's a fetching trio of handsome places of worship if ever there was one!

- The Red Lion -

Along with my general Evesham sightseeing, I naturally make time to include a pub or two. The standout contenders include the Trumpet, a Hook Norton tied house situated slightly back off Merstow Green - it has to be Old Hooky here and the home-cooked meals look tempting too. My other must in terms of ale sampling is the Red Lion on the Market Place, all rustic low beams, dried hops and an agreeable sense of mellowness. North Cotswolds' Moreton Mild never fails to tickle my fancy and is perfectly served in a dimpled pint glass - heaven!

- Faith, Charity and Hope -

All of which brings us unerringly to Thursday 20th June for the third and sadly concluding leg of this year's rovering. Nick rejoins me to chip away at Cheshire, whereby mighty Macclesfield gets grappled with for the second year running; clearly it made such an excellent impact last year that it proves irresistible! Clambering up part of the 108 Steps - easier said than done but good for one's fitness - I'm keen to introduce Nick to St Michael's and All Angels Church. Not only do we receive a warm handshake from the vicar, we are then offered a fascinating guided tour covering the Savage Chapel, the Breeches Bible (so called because Adam and Eve decided to clothe themselves in the Garden of Eden) and the tomb of Sir John Savage and Katherine Stanley, the couple depicted holding hands which was unusual for the time.

- Bridge 40 (Macclesfield Canal) -

My investigations of the Macclesfield Canal proved a 2023 Rail Rover highlight (even with an overprotective goose to contend with) so we partially repeat the trick this time around, joining the towpath at Buxton Road for the short stretch to Windmill Street. Although only a taster by comparison, this does allow Nick to admire the Old Hovis Mill and marina complex, as well as getting bearings for potential future visits to the Wharf Inn on Brook Street. Alas that doesn't open until half past four but there's plenty of other pub prospects to go at...

- Shameless in RedWillow -

Talking of which, another check on the Castle is nigh on essential - I'm a sucker for a heritage interior so this ticks all of my boxes, especially when there's an Ossett Queen Rat Stout in the offing too. Elsewhere, we enjoy the no-nonsense approach of the Waters Green Tavern (our chosen lunch stop in preference to your standard Wetherspoons stuff), while the Queens is in pre-match footballing mode, serving up bargain Holts Bitter at £3 a pint, you can't beat that. Not that we leave out the modern craft contenders entirely, hence RedWillow on Park Green has us either Wreckless or Shameless, naming no names! Cheers!

Waterways Walks: Shugborough & Great Haywood

It's fair to say that the WME blog is usually more likely to concern itself with backstreet boozers as opposed to country piles but I'm not beyond including a stately home if the occasion presents itself. Take for example this Cannock Chase caper which offers a slice of Shugborough sightseeing along with a splash of waterways interest...

- Arrival at Milford Common -

I have many childhood memories of little jaunts out to Cannock Chase, perhaps visiting the Stepping Stones, spotting roaming deer or going for walks near the military cemetery. Milford Common was always a favourite location and I recall going there on school trips, playing with beanbags and hula hoops on the furrowed green opposite the Little Fawn Cafe. The Common serves us as the beginning and end point of this Friday 7th June stroll, hence Stephen and I venture across via Penkridge and Brocton before parking the Beardsmobile on the pay and display car park just off the A513.

- Shugborough Hall -

The outward leg of our route takes us through the parkland of Shugborough Hall, a sprawling estate which was owned by the Bishops of Lichfield prior to the dissolution of the monasteries. It was home to the Anson family for over 300 years before becoming a National Trust property in 1960; the mansion has a grand portico frontage while the wider grounds include a working model farm and several follies, most notably the Shepherd's Monument, Tower of the Winds and the Arch of Hadrian. We decline to explore the house's interior on this occasion but note that servants quarters, the State Rooms and Patrick Lichfield's private apartments would be part of any tour for future reference.

- Essex Bridge -

Following a track below the formal gardens, we exit onto Essex Bridge which is itself a very fine landmark, spanning the River Trent close to its confluence with the River Sow. Originally built as a packhorse bridge, it comprises 14 stone arches with recessed bays along its length that would have allowed pedestrians to step aside when giving the horses clear passage. For us the bridge acts as a handy link into the village of Great Haywood where Trent Lane passes beneath the railway to emerge beside the Clifford Arms. Somewhat surprisingly, I turn down the prospect of a pint here even though it's a pub I rate highly - other refreshment stops are planned further around our circuit so I haven't totally lost my marbles!

- Great Haywood Lock -

Inching back along Trent Lane, we join the towpath of the Trent & Mersey Canal at Great Haywood Lock (as accompanied by Bridge 73 complete with marker for the Shugborough Fishing Club). A passing narrowboat provides an able demonstration of the lock mechanisms in action while there are visitor mooring options further ahead on the approaches to Haywood Junction. Linking the Cheshire Plain at Preston Brook with the Trent at Shardlow, the canal covers 93 miles and played a major role in the development of The Potteries, hence why Josiah Wedgwood and other key industrialists were keen to promote its inception. 

- Haywood Junction -

Our flirtation with the Trent & Mersey is but a brief one, merely bringing us the short distance to Haywood Junction and the northernmost extremities of the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal. An Anglo Welsh utility compound offers pumping out facilities and basic provisions so we pause here for an ice cream just as the afternoon weather starts to brighten up a little. The Staffs & Worcs is a waterway I've been familiar with for my entire life, especially the sections down through Pendeford, Aldersley and Compton in Wolverhampton. I don't get to see the Great Haywood end all that often though so it's nice to reacquaint myself with Swivel Bridge and the River Trent Aqueduct as large cabbage-like leaves flank the towpath.

- Tixall Lock -

The increasing sunshine makes for a very pleasant stroll indeed with Stephen and I chatting about cricketing prospects for the T20 World Cup. Tixall Wide is an intriguing expanse where the canal effectively broadens into lake-like proportions, supposedly because the owners of nearby Tixall Hall demanded a scenic view when giving permission for the navigation to cross their land. The hall was demolished in the 1920s but its elaborate Elizabethan gatehouse has survived and can clearly be seen as we proceed via Old Hill Bridge to Tixall Lock. 

- Towpath at Tixall -

Gently bearing southeastwards in the general direction of Milford, we gradually reach Tixall Bridge which is our prompt to leave the towpath behind; had we continued, we would have encountered Walton and Baswich amongst the outskirts of Stafford. As it is, Holdiford Road  conveys us firstly over the Sow and then above the Trent Valley railway line whereby we just about catch glimpse of the turreted top to Shugborough Tunnel. The Green brings us full circle into the centre of Milford so that I can pounce for pictures of the Run & Ride bicycle shop and a lesser-spotted Wimpy Bar - these used to be everywhere when I was a kid but you seldom see them nowadays so Milford's example imparts a few pangs of personal nostalgia.

- The Barley Mow -

Our exertions are pretty much done and dusted except for the small matter of the pint we'd been promising ourselves. Cue the Barley Mow, a large Greene King establishment that aims to maximise its Cannock Chase location. Abbot Ale and GK IPA are joined by Old Speckled Hen and one other seasonal ale while the interior is tastefully furnished with hints of Scrabble tiles and brewing diagrams. We grab a secluded table and resume our sporting discussions before trundling back off to Heath Town to prepare for our evening quiz night engagement; alas Team Bears could not romp to victory at Tettenhall this time around but much fun was had answering questions on Timothys, the police and words ending in ...ist. Cheers!

Caunsall, Cookley and Kinver

Cask ales, canals and some rather special cobs are all on the menu when Nick and I delve into the underrated area where South Staffordshire meets Worcestershire - there is even a seriously sizeable serving of side salad!

- Stained Glass at St Thomas's -

It's Saturday 17th February 2024, mild but overcast as I board the number 16 bus opposite Penn Library. The journey to Stourbridge is one I used to make quite frequently back in the day, so the likes of Wombourne, Swindon, Wall Heath and Kingswinford form a roll call of familiar friends before Stourbridge Interchange hovers on the horizon at nearly 10 o'clock. Nick is already in attendance having utilised the 'Dodger' shuttle train down from Stourbridge Junction and we've a few spare minutes for a spot of Stourbridge sight-seeing, hence nosing around inside St Thomas's Parish Church. This Grade I-listed Georgian gem features many interesting details, not least of which are an elaborate barrel-vaulted ceiling and some very fine stained glass (the latter produced by Chance Brothers of Smethwick).

- Stourbridge Town Hall -

Stourbridge's architectural treats also include the Town Hall further along Market Street, a venue Nick and I know well from the times when it hosted the local beer festival. Red brick in appearance and constructed in a Renaissance style to designs by Thomas Robinson, it was built in 1887 and funded by public subscription in honour of Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. Our bus connection to Kinver is the 242 route, departing at 10:40 and currently operated by Select Bus Services of Penkridge. A trundle along Enville Street to Wollaston Junction is followed by a circuit of Hyperion Road (an ordinary Stourton housing estate), a glimpse of Stourbridge Rugby Club and a reminder of the Stewponey, a massive roadhouse pub which was demolished circa 2004 and replaced with apartment living. 

- Snuggly Buggly on the Staffs & Worcs -

Dunsley Road wiggles its way towards Kinver and we hop off as soon as we see the Vine Inn so as to join the Staffs & Worcs Canal at Kinver Lock. Hyde Lock and Dunsley Tunnel would await were we to head north but on this occasion we're aiming south in the general direction of Caunsall and Cookley. Despite recent downpours, the towpath isn't overly muddy and there are cottage gardens on the far bank for us to admire (with chimpanzee and parrot ornaments). Narrowboats including 'Little Grebe' and 'Snuggly Buggly' are moored up as we take our time, leisurely reaching Whittington Horse Bridge with the River Stour for close company.

- Whittington Lock -

A little more strolling brings us next to Whittington Lock, accompanied by a creamy yellow keeper's house where the canal ducks below Windsor Holloway. You feel like you are getting away from it all here, a scene that won't have changed much over the centuries except maybe for the distant traffic churn of the A449. We're crossing into Worcestershire by this stage and the sight of Caunsall Bridge prompts us to exit the canal in favour of hamlet exploration. There isn't very much to Caunsall in truth, a cluster of houses and barns with an excitable barking Alsatian guarding one goose-focused smallholding. There is however one more item of note...

- Ludlow Gold in the Anchor -

Ah, that'll be the Anchor with its Mitchells & Butlers lamp over the front door. It's been over ten years since I last had the pleasure of coming here yet it hasn't altered one jot, from the snug with its horse racing illustrations to the main bar alive with that peculiar burr of Black Country accents mixed with a Worcestershire twang. It seems an anachronism in the modern age to say that a pub can survive merely by selling cobs but the ones on offer at the Anchor are the stuff of legend; we opt for the cheese variety, getting a solid slab of cheddar and a generous plateful of salad ingredients (onion, cucumber, lettuce, tomato, as fresh as you could want) - all for the princely sum of £3, goodness gracious! The drinks are equally exceptional with me savouring a Ludlow Gold while Nick is drawn towards the Barbourne scrumpy cider, perfect!

- Cookley Tunnel -

Conscious of tight timings because the last bus back from Kinver is ridiculously scheduled for quarter past three, we continue along the lane into nearby Cookley but do detour to the canal again briefly so as to see Cookley Tunnel. Otherwise referenced as Staffs & Worcs Bridge No. 23, the tunnel burrows 65 yards through a sandstone ridge with a row of houses on high. Up on the lane once more, we nip into the Bulls Head for your standard Marston's experience - cue a swift half of Banks's Amber sitting in a lounge furnished with baby toys and high chairs. The barmaid here is something of a character with a booming voice that would put many a foghorn to shame, making Nick want to adjust his hearing aids pronto!

- Kinver Constitutional Club -

Cookley Lane takes the strain for the return leg to Kinver, spotting St Peter's Church on the skyline to reassure us we're going the right way. Having been spoiled for cask quality at the Anchor earlier, we'd like to try somewhere with similar levels of ale excellence and the Kinver Constitutional Club will be that place. A longstanding entrant in the Good Beer Guide, the club is often in the running for CAMRA awards and can serve up to a dozen tempting beers mostly from local breweries. As a case in point, we plump for pints of Kinver Noble (a moreish 4.5% pale bitter) and sit in a plush bay window keeping half an eye on any High Street happenings. Clubs such as this offer that additional level of comfort compared to what you might get in a normal pub, so it's a relief when we're buzzed through and welcomed inside.

- Bathams Bitter in the Unicorn -

Catching that 15:13 242 as planned, we stop off in Wollaston where the ever-beguiling Unicorn has lost none of its Bathams beauty - Best Bitter, textured walls, carved pews and good conversation is all you can ask for really. The Kingsbridge has more of a coffee shop vibe by contrast but there's no disputing their Wye Valley Butty Bach is in good condition and news that Wolves are winning at Tottenham further embellishes my good mood. Acting on a recommendation from a bloke we'd chatted to on the bus, we finish up in Stourbridge courtesy of the Crafty Jar, a newish venture on Lower High Street which specialises in craft beer. Purity Bunny Hop scores highly here then it's a nightcap task of squeezing in at a busy Duke of William on Coventry Street to round things off over a Ludlow Black Knight. Cheers!

Waterways Walks: Wightwick to Wombourne

It's Saturday 3rd February 2024 and another round of train strikes mean I'm not inclined to be relying on public transport during my next spot of explorational exercise. The towpath of the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal seems more enticing instead, giving me chance to file my first Waterways Walk posting of the year...

- Near Castlecroft Bridge -

Much of what I'll be covering this trip is very familiar territory, although sometimes it's simply nice to get out of the house and put some miles into your legs. Picking my way along nature reserve paths through Smestow Valley, I join the Staffs & Worcs at Wightwick Mill Lock a little west of Compton. The playing fields of Smestow Academy hug the far bank as I proceed in turn past Wightwick Lock and Wightwick Bridge (Windmill Lane) to enter South Staffordshire countryside beyond the Mermaid moorings base. Faint wisps of blue sky gradually get edged out by cloud but it's pleasantly mild for the time of year, making for good walking weather as Castlecroft and Mops Farm Bridges are next for my attentions. 

- Something Stumpish at Dimmingsdale -

Bidding good morning to the usual mix of dog walkers and cyclists, I arrive at Dimmingsdale where any lock happenings are studiously scrutinised by one of those stump characters you see dotted all along the towpath here. Dimmingsdale Bridge appears to be undergoing yet more repairs so I wonder if it has suffered from another traffic collision - it always seems so susceptible to having its brickwork part-demolished by careless drivers! Sankey's fishing pool and Ebstree Lock offer additional camera opportunities before I reacquaint myself with Awbridge Lock not far from Trysull - alas I won't be sampling The Bell today.

- Bratch Top Lock Cottage -

I am however intending on fully inspecting one of my favourite canal locations anywhere in the country, namely the staircase sequence that is Bratch Locks. Three conjoined chambers make for an ingenious example of James Brindley's engineering that has served as something of a tourist attraction visited by Black Country folk over the centuries. Top Lock has a charming cottage for company then Middle Lock is topped by a distinctive octagonal tollhouse complete with semi-circular arched windows. The canal first opened in 1772 while the tollhouse itself dates from about 1800, meaning you've easily got 200+ years of history at your disposal. Bratch Pumping Station is beguiling in its own right, built by the Bilston Corporation in a fairytale ornate Gothic fashion and currently owned (if not used) by Severn Trent Water. 

- Bumblehole Lock -

Beyond The Bratch the canal hugs Wombourne's western extremities via Bumblehole Lock (with steep slanted parapet and well-worn whitewashed keeper's house) and Houndel Bridge (which stands beside the Round Oak pub). Giggetty Wharf is my prompt to exit the towpath in readiness for some village investigations although the Wom Brook is in the vicinity too for fans of watercourses in general. I reckon I've walked just shy of five miles so far, taking me two and a bit hours although you'd have to factor frequent photo stops into the timings there.

- The Church of the Venerable Bede -

I know Wombourne pretty well thanks to several previous forays but there are undiscovered aspects for me to get to grips with. The Church of the Venerable Bede is a good case in point, based on Giggetty Lane in a building that dates to 1957 (hence being much younger than its sister church St Benedict Biscop). A block of shops on Common Road corner include Bromley Butchers and a Boots Pharmacy, then Sytch Lane has a lawn cemetery and Blakeley Heath Primary School, neither of which I can remember ever noticing until now. Greenhill combines with Rookery Road as I home in on Battlefield Hill which may or may not be the site where the 910 AD Battle of Tettenhall took place - its exact location is subject to much conjecture!

- The Old Bush -

I'm in the market for a pint or two to ward off the risk of feeling thirsty, albeit my initial target (the Red Lion) isn't open yet. Not to worry, the Old Bush is only around the corner so I'll be able to assess what Black Country Ales have done with the place. At first glance it doesn't look too different from its years under Banks's stewardship, but I think they've opened it out more inside and the range of real ales stocked has increased significantly. I obtain a Little Eaton Old Mill Stout then struggle to find a spare table - it appears that the whole world and his wife have made this their Saturday lunchtime Wombourne watering hole of choice. A stool by a shelf comes to my rescue so I've somewhere to park my gigantic cob (cheese and onion with a healthy slathering of mustard), listen to Lonnie Donegan's 'Cumberland Gap' and polish off a second ale in the form of Beowulf's Chasewater Pale Bitter. 

- Enville Excellence at the Red Lion -

Judging by the sheer amount of custom, the Old Bush is definitely a hit and come 2pm the Red Lion should have unbolted its doors - oh good, it has! Nestled almost unnoticed below the A449 dual carriageway, I've had a soft spot for this old inn ever since Nick and I dropped by years ago for a high class slurp of Enville Ginger. The homeliness makes it in my eyes, helped by a 60s Soul soundtrack and the prospect of Bostin' Scratchuns for a tasty treat - one of the Lion's regular canine visitors seems equally as enthused about the scratchings, cue much whimpering. Enville Ale (minus any gingery flavourings) is spot on this time around so I account for a couple of those prior to a number 16 bus ride home. Cheers!