- A Terrific Teapot -
Trip Log: Sunday 16th November and we're all set for an afternoon in sleepy Shropshire. One of eight operational sites currently overseen by the Ironbridge Gorge Museums Trust (although stewardship is due to transfer to the National Trust in March 2026), Coalport China Museum is housed in a former factory that was originally established by John Rose way back in 1795. We begin our tour in the gift shop and reception area, immediately spotting a huge teapot which I could easily imagine keeping the Bygrave family freshly supplied with their favourite beverage.
- Vivacious Vases -
The Coalport name is known around the world as an exemplar in bone china and ceramics, so it is fitting that the museum showcases many examples of what would have been produced in the area. From highly elaborate vases to commemorative plates for royal occasions, there is such a lot to see and admire. One upstairs gallery is dedicated to the Caughley Collection, featuring soft-paste porcelain made near Broseley, while a Study Room has a selection of seminal textbooks and catalogues for those undertaking detailed pottery research.
- Workshop Aprons -
Having perused the exhibitions and carefully-presented cabinets, we proceed across cobbles into the Long Workshop where we can get a flavour of the manufacturing process. A recent arrival is a hefty red stirring machine transferred up from a company in Gloucestershire - it's a serious bit of kit, throughly splattered with years worth of dried droplets, and was used to mix slip or liquefied clay. The River Severn is rising high just beyond the workshop's back door so a few precious items have been repositioned in case of flooding; Emily and I are interested to hear about the different moulds and designs that are still crafted here but the unexpected star of the show is an adorable Staffordshire bull terrier who seems to like me more than Miss B.
- A Very Fetching Bonnet! -
Had Emily taken umbrage at this display of canine favouritism, she soon has reason to feel much happier when the Social History section has us reliving the lives of ceramics workers in centuries gone by through the medium of headwear. As you can see, my dubious choice of bonnet isn't quite the look a self-respecting Paul usually goes for but Miss Bygrave insists it suited me very well. One curious-sounding job title would have been the Saggar Makers' Bottom Knocker, with saggars being sturdy protective cases in which precious porcelain objects would be placed ready for firing in the kiln.
- Bottle Kiln Aglow -
Talking of the kiln, one of the surviving bottle-shaped structures is a key part of the attraction, evocatively representing the sights and sounds of this key stage of manufacturing. Saggars would be piled high in bungs or columns, with the kiln operators carrying them on their heads whilst using their hands to climb up tall ladders. It is said that it could take two whole days to fill the kiln prior to it being lit, and it's very atmospheric when lighting effects have it glowing bright red as we make our way around. Preserving the kilns is a considerable task hence the Trust rely on traditional techniques such as lime mortaring to help manage the old bricks.
- Coalport Bridge -
Having gained a deeper appreciation for all things pottery, Miss Bookworm and I explore a little more of the wider Coalport setting. Part of the former industrial complex has become a Youth Hostel complete with coffee shop from which we can obtain takeaway hot choclates, then a riverside stroll brings us to Coalport Bridge as erected circa 1818. The Woodbridge beckons for Brunning & Price high quality hospitality, both in terms of the beer options - Titanic's Cappuccino Stout, Three Tuns Solstice - and the food. Faultless roast pork with additional cauliflower cheese and pigs in blankets is indulgence par excellence, and for pudding the sticky toffee is to die for. I have a feeling we'll be back for more - cheers!
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