Tuesday, August 13

Alveston, Wellesbourne and Warwick

Looking back over my 2024 exploration diary, one glaring gap particularly stands out: strangely enough, I haven't set foot in Warwickshire all year. This situation may have been unintentional but is in urgent need of correcting - luckily I know just the chap to assist me in seeing a little more of Shakespeare's home county...

- Nick aboard his Stagecoach steed -
It's Friday 9th August 2024 and my tour guide for the day will be none other than the Hampton Magna Highwayman himself, our good friend Nick Turpin. A police incident affecting access to London Marylebone means Chiltern Train services are being disrupted, not that this impacts us getting to Warwick as such. The usual sighters of East Gate, the Market Square and Lord Leycester's Hospital come as standard before we await the tardy arrival of the number 15 bus, held up by surprisingly heavy traffic along Bowling Green Street. Once a Stagecoach double decker has graced us with its presence, we enjoy top deck views of Chase Meadow, Barford and Charlecote not to mention several lengthy loops of Wellesbourne's outlying estates.

- St James Church, Alveston -
Having already seen more of Wellesbourne Sainsbury's than is strictly desirable, we alight for the village of Alveston just before the route reaches Stratford-upon-Avon's district edges. Our top target here is the Ferry Inn, recalling bygone days when there used to be a hand-pulled craft crossing the River Avon. Alas the pub has recently closed, operators Stonegate having placed a notice on the window advising that they are seeking new tenants with no reopening date in mind. This is admittedly disappointing news but we console ourselves with a wander around the wider village, speculating as to how Kissing Tree Lane got its name and noting the presence of two interesting places of worship. The original St James's Chapel (now known as the Old Church) can be found along Mill Lane while its Victorian replacement is very imposing.

- Stratford Youth Hostel -
Having missed out on our intended Ferry tipple, we're open to wildcard refreshment options. Cue Stratford-upon-Avon Youth Hostel, based within the Georgian splendour of the Grade II listed Hemmingford House which has been under Youth Hostel Association ownership since 1947. Their licensed bar means we won't leave Alveston empty-handed drinkswise after all, hence a lovely half of Appleshed Premium Cider can be sipped whilst we explore the lawns and a Pod Village enclave of hobbit-like chalets. Although unexpected, our visit is allowing Nick to wallow in a bit of personal nostalgia after he once stayed here in the mid-1970s not long after completing his A Levels. No communal singing in the trees today mind!

- The Stags Head -
The route 15 bus timetable is creaking a little in terms of punctuality but we are able to catch our next ride back into Wellesbourne, hopping off at Chestnut Square where a Festive Forage favourite awaits. The Stags Head may have made an excellent impression in December 2015 but looks even more enchanting in the summer sunshine, its thatched roof chocolate box look having stood the test of time. It's perhaps not quite as rustic inside (even if the outhouse loos are an experience) but nevertheless a very agreeable setting for a Westons Rosie's Pig cider and a chat about which Olympic sports might suit us. Something tells me Nick wouldn't make a good wrestler but I could imagine him fencing, or maybe even hurling a javelin?

- Wellesbourne Quaintness -
Tapping into His Majesty's local knowledge, we take a sedate stroll along Church Walk which reveals more of Wellesbourne's cottagey charms. Chedham's Yard sounds most intriguing as a restored blacksmiths workshop; being as it mainly opens on Saturdays we have to content ourselves with peering through the gate. A meadow path leads us over the River Dene and on through the churchyard of St Peter's, the tower of which enjoys some dappled leafy shade. By and by we reach the back door of the Kings Head, our second Wellesbourne hostelry, which duly supplies handy halves of Aspalls Cider to be consumed within green throne armchairs. This pub has much more of a restaurant focus than the Stags Head but is pleasant enough to keep us out of mischief for the best part of an hour. 

- A rather large lampshade -
Flagging down another number 15 bus, we backtrack to Chase Meadow which has - along with the adjacent Tournament Fields Business Park - largely sprung up over the last twenty to thirty years. The estate centres around a landscaped pool and has numerous amenities such as a community centre, Tesco Extra shopping parade and two possible pub pickings. We've time to do them both, starting with the Unicorn which falls under the auspices of Marston's 'Generous George' concept with a firm emphasis on family dining. A half of Wainwright Gold each ensures we stay lubricated although Nick nearly gets entangled in a huge lampshade.

- Approaching the home straight -
Our other Chase Meadow calling point is the Ale Hub, occupying one of the aforementioned shopping units very close to the Unicorn. I've done a number of these identikit micropubs now (Dickens Heath, Mere Green, Kingswinford, Perton) and always find them very agreeable with a commitment to quality cask ales. Wadworth Amarillo Gold is certainly up to spec here with gins, cocktails and cider also available if you're that way inclined. This particular Ale Hub even hosts a Thursday evening Running Club whereby regular participants can earn themselves a t-shirt, although its far too warm for anything so energetic from us. Instead we'll flank the Gog Brook and enjoy fine vistas across Warwick Racecourse, homing in on the grandstand. 

- 'Putting' a pint away at Warwick Golf Centre -
If you had told me when we started out this morning that I'd be quaffing beverages in both a youth hostel and a golf club I wouldn't have believed you, but that cunning Nick has a further surprise up his sleeve. Warwick Golf Centre is effectively situated inside the expanses of the racecourse, comprising nine holes and a driving range squeezed onto the field inside the rails. The clubhouse bar is open to the public so we stop by for a steady slurp of Theakston's keg bitter, noting a liking for lilac-toned furniture. With His Highness happy to have satisfied that regal curiosity, we finish off at the refurbished Railway over Timothy Taylor's Golden Best when watching the conclusion to the Olympic heptathlon competition. Buoyed by Katarina Johnson-Thompson's silver success, we head up to the platform and catch our trains home safe in the knowledge that Warwickshire has joined my 2024 exploration party. Cheers!

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