Arctic chills aren't to be unexpected in January and the temperatures are certainly on the cool side as I stage my first Friday Foray of 2025. I've picked out the Potteries again with the intention of discovering a pub or two whilst adding to my Waterways Walks repertoire - what can the Caldon Canal tempt me with?
- Stoke Locks Sign -
It's Friday 10th January 2025 and a sharp frost in Wolverhampton is nothing compared to the compacted snow that awaits me when I arrive in an otherwise sunny Stoke-on-Trent. I'm well wrapped up for temperatures predicted to get no higher than minus five, and the towpath of the Trent & Mersey Canal has a hushed vibe as I commence my walk from Osborn Bridge (No. 113B). Stoke Locks will be my first point of interest as I reacquaint myself with numbers 36 up to 40, each one carrying a crisp covering of icy white stuff. Toadstool mooring pegs and a Unity mural bemoaning the perils of plastic pollution are other points of note.
- Etruria Canal Warehouse -
Etruria Junction is where I can join the Caldon Canal, a navigation that runs for roughly 18 miles via Stockton Brook and Cheddleton to reach Froghall Basin; a branch to Leek has been partially retained while historically there was a connection on to Uttoxeter too. There is initial drama when I almost come a cropper with an alarming skid by the Etruria Wharf Warehouse. Luckily I manage to catch hold of the railings and prevent a disaster, latterly recovering some poise with pictures of Etruria Forge lettering and a glimpse of the 'Lady Fiona' narrowboat; the adjacent Industrial Museum meanwhile is watched over by a statue of canal engineer James Brindley. The split between the two waterways is marked by arrow indicators and the wharf compound is part of the wider attraction along with the Etruscan Bone Mill.
- Bedford Street Staircase Locks -
Onwards up the Caldon I go with a revisit to Bedford Street Staircase Locks, one side of which is an absolute ice rink. Two conjoined chambers make for a neat feat of engineering although I advance with tentative trepidation given my near-tumble earlier. Keeping my wits about me, I encounter Bedford Street Bridge (No. 2) where Harry Ramjams is detected as an abandoned boozer which has had its water supply switched off. Planet Lock then awaits in the vicinity of Norfolk Street, offering faint flashbacks to another backstreet pub I recall getting photos of years ago but the Norfolk Inn now appears to be a pharmacy.
- Hanley Park Scenery -
Next up, I gingerly reach Hanley Park where the historic bandstand and pavilion look most delightful as framed by the terracotta brickwork of the terraced gardens. The canal slices a swathe right through the heart of the park, passing below Bridges 5 (College Road), 5A, 5B and 6 (Ridgway Road) in quick succession. Covering around sixty acres, the park is a late Victorian masterpiece having first opened to the public back in June 1897 - more recently it attracted community funding to support heritage restoration work in 2015.
- Bridgewater Pottery possibilities -
The section beyond Ridgway Road is completely new to me so I ready myself for discoveries aplenty. Flanked by the assorted remnants of old industry, I'm utterly fascinated by Hanley's hinterlands. Lichfield Street soon presents the Emma Bridgewater Pottery factory complete with flaking painted signage, not far at all from Oggy's Sports Bar where a yellow mounted Reliant Robin hints at Only Fools and Horses fandom. I'm similarly delighted to discover the Johnson Brothers (Hanley) Sanitary Works as erected in 1896; it keeps a primary academy school company these days but the edifice is still a very imposing Eastwood Road landmark.
- Ivy House Lift Bridge -
That item of earthenware extraction can be found just down the street from Bridge No. 9, after which I ponder the Norville Drive modern development of box houses and retained bottle kiln features. Bridge 10 has grand blue railings at Botteslow Street then No. 11 is the electrically-operated Ivy House Lift Bridge on the side of the Goodwin International castings factory. Stern STOP instructions appear on the bridge barriers in a setup reminiscent of Shirley Drawbridge. Atmospherically derelict hovels might have had a ceramic production pedigree but are mainly the preserve of pigeons and magpies nowadays; zooms of ramshackle window frames prove very satisfying in the sunshine.
- Botany Bay Bridge -
Bridge 12 passes beneath the Bucknall Road dual carriageway (with references to the J and G Meakin Cricket Club), preceding No. 13 for Cromer Road as paired with a council licensing depot. I continue as far as Botany Bay Bridge (No. 14), a lovely traditional stone humpback, but I daren't make use of the top path because it is so slippery. Instead I backtrack to Cromer Road for safety and tiptoe my way into Northwood, a distinct district of Hanley with much to note of photographic interest. The parish hall for example hosts weekly 'Lighthouse' Christian worship sessions while a traditional corner fryer emanates tempting chip shop smells, not forgetting Rose Street with the promise of an 1872 Wesleyan Chapel.
- The Cat Inn, Northwood -
Northwood boasts its fair share of boozers and I'm going to try two of them, the Wheatsheaf Stores and Cat Inn being within spitting distance of each other on Keelings Road. The first of these is a lovely little local that provides welcome respite from the cold; several cask ales are what I like to see but it has to be Draught Bass, an impeccable pint when supped in dartboard corner admiring Players Please tobacco boxes and 1930s period glass lamps. The Sheaf is followed ably by the Cat for Italian football highlights and a bout of Beardsmore Bleach over by the pool table. It seems quieter in here but it's a good solid boozer nevertheless.
- Bring on the Bass! -
In less challenging underfoot conditions, I'd likely have sought out the Northwood Inn and/or the Cross Guns to complete my Northwood set but I'll be sensible and keep to the properly gritted main pavements. I won't be missing out on good beer that's for sure, not with two Hanley classics on the agenda. The Golden Cup on Old Town Road has been lavishly and lovingly resurrected with heavily patterned wallpaper and Bass Only tiling to the fore; I could literally spend all day in here, it's such a spectacular setting, but the lure of the Coachmakers down by the bus station is too much to resist. More perfect Bass beckons, this time sitting in the timeless front snug chatting to the landlord about the demise of Banks's Brewery. Cheers!
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