Rail Rover Week 2024

Yes it's back! After a couple of false starts when the dates didn't quite work, my annual interrogation of the Heart of England railway network reclaims its rightful place on the WME exploration calendar. Three intense days of adventure await, covering far flung destinations in Derbyshire, Worcestershire and Cheshire...

- Gregory Tunnel (Cromford Canal) -

I've gone with the three-in-seven day Flexi Rover option this year, which at £109 is good value provided you get the mileage in. To that end, a trip along the Derwent Valley line sounds ideal so I meet Nick at Birmingham and we travel north to Derby (even allowing ourselves a cheeky morning tipple in the Brunswick, always one of HRH's favourites where a quick slurp of Black Sabbath really hits the spot). Our first full destination is Whatstandwell, a small village on the A6 which acts as our gateway to the Cromford Canal. Brightening skies encourage us along the towpath for discoveries such as Gregory Tunnel - roughly 73 metres long - and Wigwell Aqueduct, carrying the canal over the aforementioned railway line. 

- Cromford Mills -

Further treats await in the form of Aqueduct Cottage (guarding the short Nightingale Arm), Leawood Pump House (which originally started operating in 1849), and High Peak Junction where the canal historically would interchange goods with the railway towards Whaley Bridge. There's a lot of industrial heritage in this area, chiefly on account of Sir Richard Arkwright's endeavours in setting up Cromford Mills as the world's first water-powered cotton factory. We peruse their visitor centre before heading into Cromford Village itself for a refreshing stop at the Boat Inn; the pub is totally inundated with coachtrip diners but there's just enough space for us to partake of Draught Bass (or Olde Peculier should you be of that persuasion) while pondering posters detailing execution arrangements for the notorious felon Dick Turpin. 

- An Iceberg Encounter in Matlock -

Hitching a ride on the Little Sixes bus route as run by Trent Barton, we proceed into Matlock which is the Derwent Valley line's northern terminus. The town functions as an administrative base for Derbyshire County Council while the neighbouring settlement of Matlock Bath is a respected spa resort. A happy afternoon is spent accounting for three Dale Road hostelries all within a very short distance of each other, starting with bod as another outlet in the growing list of Titanic Brewery cafe bars. Having each survived our combined collision with an Iceberg, we make the acquaintance of a Remarkable Hare (supping Thornbridge's Importance of Being Pale Ale surrounded by pumpclips) and Twenty Ten, where Nick's regal leanings ensure the King George Bitter is readily selected. All three establishments are highly recommended.

- Belper, briefly -

Eager to extract every last drop out of the Derwent Valley area, we can't resist a Belper Bonus especially given that Nick had never visited the town before. Quite how much of an impression it can make in little under an hour is debatable, but the short and sweet nature of our sojourn will be fondly remembered for finding Arkwright's Real Ale Bar on Campbell Street. Anywhere serving North Riding's Chocolate and Fudge Porter (a.k.a. liquid cake) will instantly earn our affections forevermore, what a delicious beer that is! The Railway meanwhile managed not to get completely overshadowed, offering Lincoln Green hospitality that is handy for the station.

- Evesham Station -

If Monday was dedicated to Derbyshire, and Tuesday had me bidding a sad but very fond final farewell to Mr B Senior at his funeral, I'll now focus on Worcestershire Wednesday for which my eyes are fixated solely upon Evesham. Set on the banks of the River Avon, this delightful town is served by the Cotswold Line between Worcester, Oxford and London Paddington; the GWR carriages seem a step up in passenger comfort compared to what I usually experience in the West Midlands. Evesham Station first opened in 1840 and still retains much original architecture as well as having a community garden on the Oxford-bound platform. 

- Evesham Abbey Bell Tower -

No visit to Evesham is complete without having a look around the Abbey Gardens, which I'm pleased to see have been the subject of much restoration work in recent years. The Abbey itself was founded in the early 8th century and was of a Benedictine association prior to the dissolution during Tudor times. The fabulous Bell Tower was thankfully spared destruction and continues to dominate the Abbey precincts along with All Saints Church and the adjacent St Lawrence's - now there's a fetching trio of handsome places of worship if ever there was one!

- The Red Lion -

Along with my general Evesham sightseeing, I naturally make time to include a pub or two. The standout contenders include the Trumpet, a Hook Norton tied house situated slightly back off Merstow Green - it has to be Old Hooky here and the home-cooked meals look tempting too. My other must in terms of ale sampling is the Red Lion on the Market Place, all rustic low beams, dried hops and an agreeable sense of mellowness. North Cotswolds' Moreton Mild never fails to tickle my fancy and is perfectly served in a dimpled pint glass - heaven!

- Faith, Charity and Hope -

All of which brings us unerringly to Thursday 20th June for the third and sadly concluding leg of this year's rovering. Nick rejoins me to chip away at Cheshire, whereby mighty Macclesfield gets grappled with for the second year running; clearly it made such an excellent impact last year that it proves irresistible! Clambering up part of the 108 Steps - easier said than done but good for one's fitness - I'm keen to introduce Nick to St Michael's and All Angels Church. Not only do we receive a warm handshake from the vicar, we are then offered a fascinating guided tour covering the Savage Chapel, the Breeches Bible (so called because Adam and Eve decided to clothe themselves in the Garden of Eden) and the tomb of Sir John Savage and Katherine Stanley, the couple depicted holding hands which was unusual for the time.

- Bridge 40 (Macclesfield Canal) -

My investigations of the Macclesfield Canal proved a 2023 Rail Rover highlight (even with an overprotective goose to contend with) so we partially repeat the trick this time around, joining the towpath at Buxton Road for the short stretch to Windmill Street. Although only a taster by comparison, this does allow Nick to admire the Old Hovis Mill and marina complex, as well as getting bearings for potential future visits to the Wharf Inn on Brook Street. Alas that doesn't open until half past four but there's plenty of other pub prospects to go at...

- Shameless in RedWillow -

Talking of which, another check on the Castle is nigh on essential - I'm a sucker for a heritage interior so this ticks all of my boxes, especially when there's an Ossett Queen Rat Stout in the offing too. Elsewhere, we enjoy the no-nonsense approach of the Waters Green Tavern (our chosen lunch stop in preference to your standard Wetherspoons stuff), while the Queens is in pre-match footballing mode, serving up bargain Holts Bitter at £3 a pint, you can't beat that. Not that we leave out the modern craft contenders entirely, hence RedWillow on Park Green has us either Wreckless or Shameless, naming no names! Cheers!

Waterways Walks: Shugborough & Great Haywood

It's fair to say that the WME blog is usually more likely to concern itself with backstreet boozers as opposed to country piles but I'm not beyond including a stately home if the occasion presents itself. Take for example this Cannock Chase caper which offers a slice of Shugborough sightseeing along with a splash of waterways interest...

- Arrival at Milford Common -

I have many childhood memories of little jaunts out to Cannock Chase, perhaps visiting the Stepping Stones, spotting roaming deer or going for walks near the military cemetery. Milford Common was always a favourite location and I recall going there on school trips, playing with beanbags and hula hoops on the furrowed green opposite the Little Fawn Cafe. The Common serves us as the beginning and end point of this Friday 7th June stroll, hence Stephen and I venture across via Penkridge and Brocton before parking the Beardsmobile on the pay and display car park just off the A513.

- Shugborough Hall -

The outward leg of our route takes us through the parkland of Shugborough Hall, a sprawling estate which was owned by the Bishops of Lichfield prior to the dissolution of the monasteries. It was home to the Anson family for over 300 years before becoming a National Trust property in 1960; the mansion has a grand portico frontage while the wider grounds include a working model farm and several follies, most notably the Shepherd's Monument, Tower of the Winds and the Arch of Hadrian. We decline to explore the house's interior on this occasion but note that servants quarters, the State Rooms and Patrick Lichfield's private apartments would be part of any tour for future reference.

- Essex Bridge -

Following a track below the formal gardens, we exit onto Essex Bridge which is itself a very fine landmark, spanning the River Trent close to its confluence with the River Sow. Originally built as a packhorse bridge, it comprises 14 stone arches with recessed bays along its length that would have allowed pedestrians to step aside when giving the horses clear passage. For us the bridge acts as a handy link into the village of Great Haywood where Trent Lane passes beneath the railway to emerge beside the Clifford Arms. Somewhat surprisingly, I turn down the prospect of a pint here even though it's a pub I rate highly - other refreshment stops are planned further around our circuit so I haven't totally lost my marbles!

- Great Haywood Lock -

Inching back along Trent Lane, we join the towpath of the Trent & Mersey Canal at Great Haywood Lock (as accompanied by Bridge 73 complete with marker for the Shugborough Fishing Club). A passing narrowboat provides an able demonstration of the lock mechanisms in action while there are visitor mooring options further ahead on the approaches to Haywood Junction. Linking the Cheshire Plain at Preston Brook with the Trent at Shardlow, the canal covers 93 miles and played a major role in the development of The Potteries, hence why Josiah Wedgwood and other key industrialists were keen to promote its inception. 

- Haywood Junction -

Our flirtation with the Trent & Mersey is but a brief one, merely bringing us the short distance to Haywood Junction and the northernmost extremities of the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal. An Anglo Welsh utility compound offers pumping out facilities and basic provisions so we pause here for an ice cream just as the afternoon weather starts to brighten up a little. The Staffs & Worcs is a waterway I've been familiar with for my entire life, especially the sections down through Pendeford, Aldersley and Compton in Wolverhampton. I don't get to see the Great Haywood end all that often though so it's nice to reacquaint myself with Swivel Bridge and the River Trent Aqueduct as large cabbage-like leaves flank the towpath.

- Tixall Lock -

The increasing sunshine makes for a very pleasant stroll indeed with Stephen and I chatting about cricketing prospects for the T20 World Cup. Tixall Wide is an intriguing expanse where the canal effectively broadens into lake-like proportions, supposedly because the owners of nearby Tixall Hall demanded a scenic view when giving permission for the navigation to cross their land. The hall was demolished in the 1920s but its elaborate Elizabethan gatehouse has survived and can clearly be seen as we proceed via Old Hill Bridge to Tixall Lock. 

- Towpath at Tixall -

Gently bearing southeastwards in the general direction of Milford, we gradually reach Tixall Bridge which is our prompt to leave the towpath behind; had we continued, we would have encountered Walton and Baswich amongst the outskirts of Stafford. As it is, Holdiford Road  conveys us firstly over the Sow and then above the Trent Valley railway line whereby we just about catch glimpse of the turreted top to Shugborough Tunnel. The Green brings us full circle into the centre of Milford so that I can pounce for pictures of the Run & Ride bicycle shop and a lesser-spotted Wimpy Bar - these used to be everywhere when I was a kid but you seldom see them nowadays so Milford's example imparts a few pangs of personal nostalgia.

- The Barley Mow -

Our exertions are pretty much done and dusted except for the small matter of the pint we'd been promising ourselves. Cue the Barley Mow, a large Greene King establishment that aims to maximise its Cannock Chase location. Abbot Ale and GK IPA are joined by Old Speckled Hen and one other seasonal ale while the interior is tastefully furnished with hints of Scrabble tiles and brewing diagrams. We grab a secluded table and resume our sporting discussions before trundling back off to Heath Town to prepare for our evening quiz night engagement; alas Team Bears could not romp to victory at Tettenhall this time around but much fun was had answering questions on Timothys, the police and words ending in ...ist. Cheers!

Chip Foundation Chronicles: Ludlow and Cleobury Mortimer

Episode 81 of the Chip Foundation Chronicles will involve a sun-blessed slice of Shropshire with which we can celebrate me getting another year older. The trip also gives us a chance to collectively raise a toast to Mr B Senior after his recent passing...

- The 292 on Upper Galdeford -

It's Friday 31st May - the last day of spring - as we rendezvous aboard the 09:56 train from Smethwick Galton Bridge to Kidderminster. Nick updates us on his Llangollen holiday antics before we troop across Kiddy town centre hoping the buses will behave better than they did on the equivalent trip last year. The 292 is indeed on layover so we won't be deprived of our Cleobury connection this time around, although first off we'll ride the entire route through to Ludlow via Bewdley and Far Forest. It's a lovely journey make no mistake, especially the bit over the Clee Hills which requires much low gear grinding to get up any steep stuff; the driver also needs to keep his eyes peeled for random roaming sheep with an apparent deathwish!

- Ludlow Castle -

Ludlow is a lovely place to visit at any time of year although this for us will only be a relatively brief encounter: an hour and fifteen minutes to get our heritage fix and try just one of the local watering holes. We start by strolling through the Bull Ring and past the Butter Cross to Castle Square where the market stalls are attracting many an eager shopper. A ceremonial cannon guards the main entrance to Ludlow Castle itself, a mighty Norman fortification perched high above the River Teme. Prince Arthur (the elder brother of King Henry VIII) lived here with his wife Catherine of Aragon prior to his death in 1502, and it is said that his 'heart' is still buried in the town. How different history could have been had Arthur not succumbed to the sweating sickness and died at the age of fifteen...

- Stained Glass in St Laurence's -

Ludlow has many other treats to entice enthusiasts of fine English architecture, most notably the Feathers Hotel with its intricate half-timbered frontage (it has been operating as a hotel since circa 1670). Another unmissable building has to be St Laurence's Parish Church with embellishments that could put several cathedrals to shame, from a noted set of misericord carvings to a commanding square bell tower and a fine array of stained glass windows. We peacefully peruse the chancel, nave and aisles before pausing in the Lady Chapel which is showcasing a Beatrix Potter theme with references to Peter Rabbit and Miss Tiggywinkle.

- R White's in the Old Street Tavern -

As regards pub prospects you really can't go wrong with Ludlow's wide selection of tempting inns so picking just one to sample is quite a dilemma. In the end we opt for one of the town's newest arrivals, the Old Street Tavern which - as you may have guessed - is on Old Street a little along from the Bull Ring. A townhouse converted from two shop frontages, it first opened in autumn 2022 and offers three rotating ales as well as cobs prepared to order. Live music is held upstairs on Friday evenings but we eye up the left-hand snug when partaking of Summer Lightning, R White's Lemonade or Dancing Duck's Abduction. Plain seating gives a parlour feel although there are Hotel de Tourisme octagonal signs for a continental French flavour.

- The Kings Arms -

Still wary of the 292's habit for iffy punctuality, we're pleased to see our next Diamond steed hove into view so we trundle back over the Clee Hills to Cleobury Mortimer - the sheep seem to get particularly brazen in the vicinity of Cornbrook Corner. Upon alighting outside the Talbot Hotel, Stephen can't detect any signs of life at Mimi's Plaice chip shop so we take a punt on a pub lunch courtesy of the Kings Arms. This proves to be an excellent decision, not only due to it being a Hobsons Brewery taphouse, but also because Ken and Nick can join forces on the 2 for £15 Fishy Friday deals. Stephen and I are equally as happy to partake of our chunky ham, egg and chips meals, washed down in my case with a refreshing pint of Twisted Spire.

- Cleobury Mortimer Market Hall -

The name of said ale is inspired by the misshapen protrusion that adorns St Mary the Virgin, Cleobury Mortimer's Anglican church. The crookedness isn't quite of Chesterfield proportions but nevertheless makes for a very noticeable landmark among the rolling hills of South East Shropshire, while the name Cleobury Mortimer sounds like it should belong to a very posh public schoolboy! The town also has a Market Hall (housing the tourist information centre), several independent stores (including Mumfords Ironmongers, an unspoiled throwback that reminds us of Arkwrights from Open All Hours), and The Wells, an open water source that appears to have dried up in recent years.  

- Bootiful Beer in the Talbot Hotel -

Continuing with our Cleobury Mortimer crawl remit, we call next into the Royal Fountain just a little further down the hill. Ludlow's Stairway is the star attraction here as we commandeer a set of armchairs and raise a reflective glass to the memory of the late John Beardsmore, he would have loved this trip out I'm sure. The Talbot Hotel then beckons as an old coaching inn which is currently operated by Greene King; again we can take our pick of the local cask ales with Hobsons 'Bootiful' being the brewery's May special - we presume it has nothing to do with any Bernard Matthews turkey catchphrases! At this juncture I leave the chaps to their own devices momentarily so as to check out the Stable Tavern (literally to the rear of the Talbot) where I'm rewarded with a speedy slurp of Wye Valley's Mayflower - very nice! 

- A Severn Valley Swansong -

The 16:23 departure is running late but a quick check on Diamond's tracker app reassures us that the bus is on its way, and sure enough it duly appears to whisk us back to Kidderminster (bypassing Bewdley due to bridge work diversions). Our final calling point will be our old friend the King & Castle on the Severn Valley Railway station, a timeless refreshment rooms setting in which to imbibe of a faultless Bathams Best Bitter - great ale, great company and a place chock full of railwayana, this is approaching pub heaven as far as I'm concerned. It may have been at the second time of asking but it feels like we've properly conquered Cleobury Mortimer now, and a longer return to Ludlow is definitely a possibility. Cheers!

WME Flickr Focus - May 2024

Here comes summer - or so we hope! June is waiting patiently in the wings, possibly with some kind weather, but before we hurl ourselves headlong into warm sunshine and beer gardens there's a little bit of photostream admin to take care of. Let's muse over May's motley bunch of arrivals shall we?

Insisting on getting first dibs with our attention this month is WME Shropshire - yes, you read that correctly, scarcely a sniff of an update all year and then suddenly a veritable deluge by comparison. Boningale and Bridgnorth have worked their magic by supplying snapshots of field gates, The Woodlands, the Bandon Arms and even a Castle Grounds scarecrow. I've also included a sequence of pebble pictures honouring the Queen's 2022 Platinum Jubilee.

It may have been upstaged by Shropshire for a change but WME Wolverhampton still puts in a strongish showing, bolstered by additions from Bantock Park, Blakenhall and Bradmore. I'll admit that several of these are simply the usual diet of street signs and similar ephemera so perhaps the more interesting newbies involve a Gunmakers Arms dartboard, the former Roper factory frontage on Upper Villiers Street, and a seasonal snowman shopfront scene courtesy of Geo Davies Electricals on Trysull Road. 

Next we'll trot across to WME Telford which has busied itself with Blists Hill Victorian Town. Forest Glen flags meet G.R. Morton's Ironworks while the Madeley Wood Brickworks earn a reappearance, not forgetting the piano parlour inside the New Inn pub. A mixture of news headlines present local stories alongside international affairs, and if that all gets too much there's a Bowring Park boa board from Wellington to investigate too (it does have a snake). 

In the mentioned-in-dispatches section this time around we have four of my main West Midlands galleries. WME Birmingham raids the Brandwood area for St Bede's Church and The Pathway; WME Sandwell visits the Corks Club over in Bearwood; WME Walsall braves Brownhills for floral street art and a Purity beermat; and WME Dudley collects coal lumps at the Black Country Living Museum.

The final word from May shall go to the shires, whereby WME Staffordshire claims Codsall content (the Bentlands pub's beer garden) with a side order of the Lichfield Canal (catching up with Borrowcop Locks restoration). WME Worcestershire meanwhile bags a brace of pub signs thanks to the Bluebell in Barnards Green and the Real Ale Tavern in Bewdley. That pretty much covers everything from the last few weeks - enjoy the photos!