"Five days... Six counties.. One ticket" - so goes the tagline for Rail Rover Week 2022, my annual fix of adventure from the Heart of England railway network. An epic week requires an epic (for me) blogpost, so strap yourselves in for the ride...
- Chester Station -
Tuesday 19th April: Rail Rover this year takes place in the days immediately after Easter and my opening destination is Chester, one of the northernmost limits on the Heart of England ticket. Having changed at Crewe onto what effectively acts as an extended shuttle service, I reach Chester Station just before 11am and am hugely impressed by its historic Italianate frontage complete with a J.B. Joyce & Co clock. The Queens Hotel and the Town Crier pub are distinctive buildings in their own right so the photos are flowing straight away.
- Hoole Lane Lock -
Although Rail Rover Week obviously concentrates on trains as its main transport focus, I do like to include some waterways content if possible. Chester gives me the chance to add to my knowledge of the Shropshire Union, a canal I'm familiar with as regards its Wolverhampton terminus at Autherley Junction but any Cheshire segments are mostly a mystery to me. City Road provides my sought-after towpath access point and I progress as far as Chemistry Lock in the shadows of a blue-rimmed water tower. Hoole Lane Lock likewise merits some pictures, both locations having traditional keepers' cottages and hints of canalside gardens.
- The Albion -
Whilst in Chester I'm keen to walk part of the famous City Walls, impressively intact Roman and medieval defensive fortifications that form a ring around the city centre. There are fine views looking out over the River Dee and I include a detour to see the Amphitheatre remains near St John the Baptist Church. The spectacle doesn't end there for my choice of pubs gives me more sights to marvel at - take for example the Spitting Feathers Brewery Tap, based in a Jacobean banqueting hall complete with hung tapestries. I meanwhile develop an instant soft spot for the Albion off Park Street, a backstreet boozer adorned with all manner of military memorabilia and vintage advertisements. Thankfully I'm not part of a stag or hen party so I'm allowed inside for a Timothy Taylor's Boltmaker and to marvel at the collection of artefacts.
- The Cavern of the Curious Gnome -
Usually the Albion would win the award for most memorable pub of the day hands down but it manages to get upstaged by an interloper within The Rows, Chester's unique arrangement of half-timbered shops-upon-shops. The distinctive walkways are fascinating enough but when you factor in the Cavern of the Curious Gnome I really do feel like I've slipped into a parallel universe of toadstool seating and giant gnome figurines. Clandestinely squirreled away above the Paysan wine bar, 'Gnome' acts as an almost continental getaway with an emphasis on Belgian beer, German lager and UK craft offerings. I've never been anywhere quite like it!
- Tutbury Church -
Wednesday 20th April: on we go into Day Two whereby I'm delighted to be joined by Nick for a Staffordshire selection. We're investigating the railway line between Derby and Stoke so our first stop is Tutbury & Hatton where the River Dove marks the county boundary with South Derbyshire. Tutbury is firmly on the Staffordshire side of the river and boasts both a ruined castle (which opens Thursdays to Sundays in low season) and a Priory Church that has a majestically elaborate West Doorway. The village pubs we'd ideally like to sample aren't seemingly open of a Wednesday lunchtime but Ye Olde Dog & Partridge (a sprawling old coaching inn) and the Vine (very much a Marston's local) ensure we won't go thirsty.
- Dr Johnson Monument, Uttoxeter -
We were nevertheless rather taken with Tutbury but nearby Hatton is a harder sell, dominated by a Nestle/Nescafe factory which explains the odd smell of roasted coffee beans thick in the atmosphere. The Railway Inn by the station level crossing has a lovely pet dog but proves to be lacking in cobs and cask ale - what, no Bass?! Our afternoon plans take us to Uttoxeter, home to a National Hunt racecourse that heralds our arrival onto platform two. A five minute stroll into the town centre brings us neatly to Market Place where the Dr Johnson Memorial takes pride of place - it is said to commemorate an act of penance that saw the renowned lexicographer atoning for refusing to work on his father's bookstall as a boy.
- Citra IPA in the Horse & Dove -
Nick and I have no need to hang our heads in shame and therefore simply continue our tour of the town. St Mary the Virgin Parish Church has traditional 'He is Risen' Easter decorations while the bus station has a Midland Classic vehicle or two in circulation. Pub-wise there are several hostelries that could claim our custom but we concentrate on an old favourite and a relatively new arrival. The former is the Vaults, a timeless bastion of Bass where we receive an impromptu table skittles demonstration, whereas the latter is the Horse & Dove micropub overlooking the main square. Leatherbritches Citra IPA is freshness in a glass here as we recline in comfortable armchairs listening to 1990s tunes. A good day!
- Narborough Station -
Thursday 21st April: what then will day three have in store? Let's serve up a little slice of Leicestershire, once the 9:52 train from Birmingham New Street re-enters service following a medical emergency. Narborough sets the ball rolling on this occasion, the station retaining a nice railway house on the Leicester-bound platform although for me the lattice footbridge in bright shades of red and green is really the star of the show. My photographic circuit of the village introduces me to a branch library, All Saints Church, Narborough Hall (a family home turned into a gift shop business) and the Narborough Arms (operated by Greene King).
- Greetings from Littlethorpe -
Back at Narborough Station, I find one of the 'Fosse Foxes' sculptures that was part of a trail installed across various Blaby District tourist attractions last year - this one keeps a very close eye on signal box happenings! Heading over the tracks into the neighbouring community of Littlethorpe, the Plough Inn takes my fancy as an Everard's tied house so I pause there for a pint of Old Original. Littlethorpe's other pub is the Old Inn further along on The Square so I note that for future reference; other features this side of the railway include a war memorial tablet and W Heighton & Son's funeral directors.
- Hinckley Sock Homage -
Catching the 13:28 train back towards Birmingham, my next stop is Hinckley ten minutes or so away. The town was historically a centre for the hosiery industry - particularly knitted stocking and sock production - which explains why a mural nostalgically recalls the old factories owned by firms such as Atkins, Smallshaws and Sketchleys. It's been a few years since I last came here and the most obvious change has been the completion of The Crescent, a major leisure and commercial redevelopment project that encompasses a rebuilt bus station. One of the units is where I find the Elbow Room, a highly-regarded micropub where I can savour Tiny Rebel's Press Start Mocha Porter - very moreish indeed!
- Bridge 76, Macclesfield Canal -
Friday 22nd April: Rail Rover 2022 is notable for delivering a double dosage of Cheshire as I stretch my horizons to include Congleton, not strictly within the confines of my ticket but I don't mind paying a little extra to cover me beyond Kidsgrove. Congleton Station is virtually next door to the Macclesfield Canal so I get my wish for more towpath trekking, albeit I'll only cover the relatively short section from Galley Bridge (No. 73 at Henshall Hall Drive) to the charming Congleton Aqueduct with its vintage signs about 12-foot headroom clearances. On a sunny spring morning there's little I like better than getting snapshots of old bridges and indulging in a general spot of gongoozling.
- Congleton Town Hall -
Canal Road is my route into the heart of Congleton, lured in by the Town Hall's Gothic-styled presence looming large on the horizon; the building was designed by Edward William Godwin and completed in 1866. I'd never visited the town before so there are literally new discoveries around every corner, from pedestrianised Bridge Street with its array of well-known stores, to West Street where the Lion & Swan Hotel has a distinct dash of Tudor tavern elegance. The red-liveried D&G fleet is very prominent at the bus station as a Bear Grills greasy spoon and the local branch library vie for my attention.
- The Beartown Tap -
Naturally I've a couple of Congleton hostelries in mind by way of refreshment, chief amongst which is the Beartown Tap on Willow Street. It's fair to say I absolutely loved this place despite not partaking of their fruitier ales - I like Peach Melbear and Bluebeary a lot but today was the day for sampling Glacier and Kodiak in pristine condition. My other pub choice would have been the Prince of Wales Joules establishment on Lawton Street were it not closed while a landlord transition takes effect. No matter, I'll simply seek out the Young Pretender instead, quaffing a Strange Times Neo Kosmo Blond in an artistically-styled 'beer parlour'.
- A Mammoth Meeting at Craven Arms -
Saturday 23rd April: St George's Day has been specially reserved for Shropshire - with a helping hand from Herefordshire - as royal correspondent Nick makes his second rovering appearance of the week. Wall-to-wall sunshine has given way to cloudy skies in Craven Arms but that won't stop us from making a new cuddly mammoth friend outside the Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre - I think Nick was rather tempted to join in with violin practice. Craven Arms serves as a junction station for the Heart of Wales line and feels resolutely agricultural with a semi-permanent scent of manure in the air. Tractors and other farm machinery are to the fore as we flank the busy A49 trunk road.
- Stokesay Castle -
Just south of Craven Arms is the fortified manor house of Stokesay Castle, managed and preserved by English Heritage. Originally constructed by Lawrence of Ludlow in the late 13th century, it is a remarkable survivor and Nick is effusive about the countryside views that can be enjoyed from the South Tower. I concentrate on photos of the 16th century gatehouse and the adjacent parish church before we venture back into town for a drink. Alas the Craven Arms Hotel (after which the whole settlement was named) is currently closed down so we take a punt on the Stokesay Inn where Ludlow Brewery's Blonde and Gold are well represented.
- Ducking Stool, Leominster Priory -
Moving on, we can't resist trying the brewery's output at source so it's an easy decision to break our journey at Ludlow. Half an hour in their converted railway shed taproom is just long enough to steadily sup respective halves of Black Knight and Red Dawn - the beer quality is stellar so it's no surprise the place is busy. Leominster then awaits our afternoon attendance and has its own treats to keep us captivated, not least of which is the wonderful Leominster Priory. The church here can trace its origins right back to 660AD and the architecture includes a magnificent Norman nave. Some of the furnishings are highly intriguing, such as a ducking stool used to establish whether someone was a witch, and a modern depiction of the Last Supper crafted out of computer keyboard buttons.
- Feeling Wholesome in the Chequers -
Leominster railway station seems like a sleepy location these days but it was once an important junction with branches to both Worcester (via Bromyard) and Kington. After a Wetherspoons lunch courtesy of the Dukes Head - previously the town's post office - we conclude matters on Etnam Street just around the corner from the station. The honour of hosting our closing half goes to the Chequers, an unspoiled Wye Valley Brewery outlet that has achieved Good Beer Guide recognition. Wholesome Stout thus brings the curtain down on a truly tremendous week that had me travelling the length and breadth of the regional railway network. Roll on Rail Rover 2023 I say!
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