Thursday, June 2

A Black Country Birthday

Wednesday 1st June 2016 just so happened to be my birthday, and while my precise age will remain a closely guarded secret, I will let you in on details of a celebratory outing featuring the Black Country Living Museum and a couple of my favourite pubs...


- Watery Lane Junction Bridge -

The Chip Foundation is gathering to mark the special occasion whereby Nick, Stephen and myself are being joined by honorary member Ken. Our collective meeting point is Tipton Station where we can immediately launch into some lost canal investigation. Caggy's Boatyard on the New Birmingham Main Line is a well-known feature based at the site of Watery Lane Junction, a location that once provided links to the Tipton Green and Toll End branches. The first of these can still partially be followed as a public footpath stretching away from the old junction just where the New Main Line slightly widens. We therefore amble the short distance through to the remains of Tipton Green Junction where we reach the Old Main Line in the shadow of the Slasher's statue; along the way the track crosses Union Street (next to the Conservative Club) and passes through a former lock chamber where some of the stonework remains intact - interesting indeed!


- Lock Lookout Duty -

Tipton was historically awash with waterways so it is a challenge trying to unpick the various linkages. Our next significant location is simply named Tipton Junction - this is where the Dudley Canal branches off towards the Black Country Living Museum and Dudley Tunnel, although we have to switch towpaths at Pitchfork Bridge to access the line properly. We pass under Dudley Road and the Birmingham New Road in quick succession to reach the gate at the edge of the museum grounds; there isn't any direct access here so we leave the towpath and head for the main entrance off Tipton Road.



- Pitchfork Bridge -

Even though I only visited the museum back in April it was great to be back, extracting every last ounce of value from my 'Unchained' pass which is soon due for expiry. This would be my fourth visit in total but each time there is something different to catch my eye and add to the fascination, notably today a ride on Trolleybus No. 735 in its distinctive all-blue municipal Walsall Corporation livery with destination blinds for the Mossley estate. Hopping aboard outside the Bradburn & Wedge Garage, the journey takes us smoothly down towards the canalside village to terminate at the tramshed opposite St James's School.



- Trolleybus Terminating -

Another bonus quickly presents itself with a first-ever look inside AW Broome's Conway Garage, a replica of a building originally located near the Fighting Cocks in Wolverhampton. Among the engine oil cans and vintage fuel pumps are examples of Sunbeam motorcycles, representing how proprietor Alex Broome worked for the company as a racing mechanic before starting his own garage business. Close by, the old-fashioned fairground is a popular attraction during half term week although we resist the invitation to hook-a-duck or win a coconut.



- Fantastic Fish -

One prospect we aren't going to turn down though is that of the museum's famed fish and chips, traditionally cooked in beef dripping. The queue outside Hobbs & Sons is predictably long so instead we take our turn waiting at the Canal Street Fried Fish store which also operates during peak times - it's only a small shop and everything is prepared fresh so it does take a while to get served but our patience is certainly rewarded. Delicious!



- Birthday Boy in the Bottle & Glass -

A culinary treat like that needs to be washed down in style so we reconvene in the wonderful Bottle & Glass Inn (although I make sure to stock up on cinder toffee from Cook's sweet shop first). The ambience of this preserved Brockmoor boozer never ceases to captivate as we take up residence by the piano in the parlour and partake of Weston's Old Rosie, all the while being gently warmed by the flickering coal fire - June has not got off to an especially summery start temperature-wise it must be said! Time drifts slowly by as we savour the simple pub pleasures of cider and conversation, perfect preparation for the 3pm Charlie Chaplin silent comedy showing at the Limelight Cinema - naturally with Nick in attendance we had to sit in the posh seats!



- Canal Street Window Shopping -

A general browse of Canal Street's shops includes assorted sightings of cabbages, scrubbing brushes and bathtubs as we meander back towards the site entrance. Old Birmingham Road has an evocative array of 1930s shopfronts, among them that for Hartill's Motorcycles as recreated from Mount Pleasant in Bilston. We call into a couple of outlying cottages to get a feel for old time living conditions (outside privies and pig pens) then finish off with a peek inside the Woodsetton Toll House where the front bedroom boasts a patchwork quilt and a well-loved teddy bear.



- Woodsetton Toll House -

The Toll House used to be situated on the Sedgley-Tividale turnpike in the vicinity of Holden's Brewery, and strangely enough the brewery is precisely where we're heading next! After a mooch in the well-stocked gift shop we bid the museum farewell and set out along the Birmingham New Road to observe further Aldi construction progress following the demise of the King Arthur. My plan is to go cross country through part of the Wrens Nest Nature Reserve, a fine idea in principle but some typically dodgy WME navigation means we almost go round in circles - in my defence, one woodland track looks much like any other but at least we get to do a spot the difference exercise when Nick poses next to a fossil.



- Wrens Nest Fossil Watch -

Having recalculated my bearings we eventually emerge from Mons Hill to find the home of Holden's on George Street. A bottling plant and the main brewing building stand either side of the Park Inn tap, a place I hold in high esteem for quality ales and friendly hospitality. Today's tipple is Slack Tub, a new hoppy straw-toned brew I'd seen mentioned on Twitter a few days earlier - it's certainly a nice drink although Golden Glow remains my confirmed Holden's favourite. We sit in the games room and recall Nick's nifty-fingered table football excellence the last time we were here.



- Poised in the Park Inn -

Onwards and it's double 229 duty to connect us to our evening establishments. Being as it's my birthday, the Beacon Hotel in Sedgley simply has to be done - once there it must be the Dark Ruby Mild, the exalted Sarah Hughes elixir that is the stuff of legend. A seat in the snug is ideal for more relaxed banter as we ponder Ken's moustache memories and Stephen's shock cider confession. With Mr B then heading homeward to Wolverhampton, Ken, Nick and I proceed to Bilston in order to maintain our regular date with Patsy Gamble in the Trumpet - smooth jazz sounds in another must-visit Holden's hostelry, spellbinding stuff! That final session of scatchings and saxophones set the seal on a sensational day, all showcasing the very best of the Black Country. Happy Birthday me!!!

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