Originally a Tudor manor house that was extensively restored by the Ash family in the early-to-mid 20th century, Packwood House is a National Trust property nestled among winding Warwickshire lanes between Dorridge and Lapworth. My only previous visit to the site came with Nick back in October 2020 when access was limited due to ongoing Covid restrictions, but now - in the company of a certain Bookworm Bygrave - I have returned to take a closer look...
- Black Sabbath Mural -
Trip Log: Saturday 16th August 2025 and before any Packwood inspections can commence, I've a little bit of business to attend to in Birmingham. Whether I'll track down every single one of the big 'Bulls in the City' sculptures remains to be seen, but I'm chipping away at collecting them one by one where I can. 'Irresisti-Bull' lurks on John Bright Street and takes inspiration from the distinctive disc cladding of the Selfridges building (albeit in tones of blue rather than silver), making for a great start to the day. Nearby on Navigation Street is yet another Black Sabbath tribute item, this time in the form of an excellent mural along the railway wall; Ozzy Osbourne, Tony Iommi, Geezer Butler and Bill Ward have even autographed the brickwork.
- Bullkins -
Still on the hunt for more bulls, I'm saddened to note that 'Bull-dozer' on Waterloo Street has been taken away for repairs, although there is happier news that 'Cadbully' is back on display in all its Dairy Moo chocolatey finery. 'Dare to Disco' meanwhile is bright pink with a Take More Chances message over by the Bull Ring, then the indoor malls play host to 'Bullkins' in claret and blue Aston Villa colours as a nod to successful striker Ollie Watkins. I've just time to greet 'Brighter Days Will Come', the Moor Street Station big bull with its depictions of a goldfinch and poppy flowers looking optimistically towards a better future.
- Inside Packwood House -
Indeed, I'm rather hoping for increased brightness today because the weather is resolutely overcast as I proceed to Olton and meet up with Emily. Miss Bygrave knows Packwood pretty well having worked both here and at the moated National Trust property of Baddesley Clinton not far away. Checking in at the visitor reception, we're allocated a house tour slot at 11:45 and are soon admiring the exquisite array of C16th tapestries which seemingly hang in every room. Downstairs we get to marvel at a dining room laid out with gleaming cutlery, then stroll down the Long Gallery to the Great Hall, which almost unbelievably used to be a cow barn!
- Bathroom Fittings -
Much of what we see inside the house today is the work of Graham Baron Ash, a Birmingham industrialist who painstakingly restored Packwood House over twenty years in the 1920s and 30s prior to donating the place to the National Trust. The upstairs quarters include two regal bedrooms - one named for Queen Mary, the other Queen Margaret of Anjou - with treasured possessions throughout. The Ireton Bathroom has stunning blue and white Delft tiling plus luxurious lions head tap fittings, no expense spared it seems. Apparently the house has two main doors, one for travelling to Birmingham and the other for going to Leamington.
- Glorious Gardens -
Despite extensive alterations, you can still get an impression of the initial residence that was constructed for the Fetherston family circa 1570, and we enjoy contemplating the frontage as seen from the wider grounds. Packwood is blessed to have gorgeous gardens where although the longed-for sunshine is reluctant to put in an appearance, it's nevertheless a real treat to mingle amidst the herbaceous borders discovering swathes of beautiful dahlias. The Yew Garden is a sight to behold, packed with topiary trees some of which are over 350 years old. The layout is attributed to representing 'The Sermon on the Mount' with twelve larger apostle trees culminating in a spiral path that leads you up beneath The Master yew. It takes careful maintenance over several months each year to care for these important historic specimens.
- Ring Toss on the Lawn -
Beyond the immediate gardens, Packwood is set within around 150 acres of mixed parkland, woodland and meadow. We take a turn around the ornamental lake, spotting a heron stealthily eyeing up its next catch. Back on the lawns below the main house, a selection of traditional games can be played such as skittles and beanbag archery. We give the Ring Toss a try with me hoping to gain revenge for Emily's recent winning streak (Moseley Old Hall quoits, Flight Club darts - she's gaining quite a resume). Whilst I would definitely argue I had the greater throwing consistency in amassing a perfectly respectable score of 60, the Bygrave luck still holds when Emily's penultimate throw picks out the centre peg for a 25 bonus to take victory.
- A Butterfly Character -
During the school holidays, an extra trail has been laid on for children (and big kids like me) to go and find favourite storybook characters across the grounds. Elmer the Elephant thus hides by a lakeside gate, and the Arabian Nights genie - complete with camel - lingers on the lawns. After a break for a hot drink and a slice of chocolate chip-studded banana bread, we continue into the Kitchen Garden to track down The Three Little Pigs, albeit the Big Bad Wolf looks nothing like Jane!! Perhaps my favourite set of cute cut-outs is those for the Very Hungry Caterpillar scattered around the far side of the vegetable patch; the caterpillar itself takes pride of place of course, along with the butterfly, a half-eaten strawberry and an ice cream.
- Packwood Kitchen Garden -
The Kitchen Garden more generally is a recreation of what might have existed to supply the Fetherston family's culinary needs back in the 1700s, cultivating a variety of herbs, fruit and vegetables that fed the inhabitants of the main house. Apple trees and rhubarb stalks blend with cabbages, radishes and broccoli, plus there are pretty flowers sprouting in amongst the onions. The produce grown is used to create sweet and savoury dishes at the on-site cafe, and it would be remiss of me not to mention the Sundials Bookshop which first launched in 2024 in the East Court. Emily was remarkably restrained in only buying one item from the thousands of donated tomes available, and the shop name alludes to the decorative dials which enabled bygone Packwood residents to tell the time over the course of the day.
- Cider at the Punchbowl -
One aspect of the Nick visit from 2020 that I am keen to see again is Packwood Avenue, a prominent tree-lined path that stretches out to Chessetts Wood Road. It makes for a lovely walk, especially with lambs bleating in the adjacent fields, and the chance to meet a couple of adorable dogs is not to be sniffed at - one of them is an eleven week-old puppy who instantly endears himself by licking my hand by way of a friendly greeting. The afternoon is crowned with beer garden refreshment at the Punchbowl, a very classy pub-restaurant on the Rising Lane/Mill Lane crossroads north of Lapworth. Sharp's Cold River Cider slakes the thirst with the sun teasingly threatening to come out but then hiding again. Cheers!