- Scarborough Cricket Club -
Our story begins on Monday 28th October 2024 with the journey north, being picked up from Wolverhampton's Faulkland Street coach station at half past ten. Daish's Coaches are our company of choice for this particular holiday and their Yorkshire offering is the Esplanade Hotel in Scarborough's South Cliff district, perched high on the headland overlooking the seafront gardens and the town centre. After a steady journey up via the M18 and A614, we arrive circa half past four with time to spare before our evening meal. One Scarborough location we're keen to see above all others is the local cricket club on North Marine Road; Warwickshire were due to play there in 2020 but the Covid pandemic put paid to that, so we hope that the fixture list will give us another festival billing here before too long.
- St Mary's at Dusk -
Evidence of Scarborough's rich and varied history is very much apparent, from the craggy ruins of its medieval castle to its importance as a fishing port and subsequent growth as a Victorian seaside resort. Although darkness is setting in rapidly now that the clocks have been put back, we navigate our way around North Bay to find St Mary's Church and then inspect the quayside, a curious mixture of penny arcades, hot dog models and moored up trawlers. Mealtime at the Esplanade allows us to make the acquaintance of our fellow guests before we pick out a couple of evening drinking options courtesy of the Lord Rosebery (Scarborough's Wetherspoons as named after a former Prime Minister and serving £1.99 discount ales on a Monday) followed by the Cask Inn (a community pub and jazz venue under threat of closure).
- Blands Cliff Mural -
To Tuesday 29th October 2024 and our first full day of North Yorkshire investigations. I'm up bright and early to see more of Scarborough's seafront attractions, chief among which is the cast iron elegance of the Cliff Bridge as erected in 1827. Its duck egg blue railings lead neatly on towards the Grand Hotel and an intriguing Victorian tramway operation which comes in handy given the amount of steps one would otherwise need to climb. I then spy an artistic treat on Blands Cliff in the form of an extended set of murals all along the length of a steep cobbled slope. Apparently these were painted by various groups of local creatives between 2001 and 2004 as part of a regeneration initiative.
- Class 170 train at Bridlington -
Mr B and I have nominated Bridlington as our preferred Tuesday destination hence - after a decent Daish's breakfast - we make use of Northern Rail's 'Duo' deal which gives discounted tickets for two people travelling together. The train ride to Brid passes through Seamer, Filey and Hunmanby, taking just shy of forty minutes. I'd not been to Bridlington for the best part of thirty years but it remains a perennial East Riding favourite for holiday-goers and daytrippers. The railway station retains buffet signage and chiselled booking office lettering, while there are sprawling beaches either side of the main harbour.
- Meeting a Bridlington Puffin -
Our seafront stroll takes us firstly out by the local leisure centre and then back along the pier, finding the 'Gansey Girl' sculpture paying tribute to the local knitting tradition undertaken by families of fishermen who would craft thick sweaters to keep their men warm out at sea. Two contrasting drinking establishments are next for our attention, although sadly my preferred pick - the Three B's micropub, in the running for CAMRA's National Pub of the Year award - doesn't open on Tuesdays. The Moon steps into the breach instead, serving up a liquorice tinged nice pint of Aitcheson's Endike Black before we test out the Bridbrewer & Taproom bar which brews all of its own ales on the premises - I can vouch for the Trick or Treacle porter!
- The Cobbler's Arms -
An ongoing police incident has decimated the afternoon timetable on the Scarborough to Sheffield branch line although we do drop reasonably lucky (given the wider disruption) in catching a train back to Filey. Knowing that I once spent a family holiday at the Crows Nest caravan park, I had anticipated forgotten Filey memories suddenly flooding my mind but in truth not much seemed familiar apart from Cargate Hill as the main approach route to the beach. Stephen is pleased to get acquainted with an 8ft tall trawlerman whilst I'm equally as excited to track down the Cobbler's Arms, a dog-friendly micropub based in a former shoe shop on Union Street. Here I get sniffed out by a docile whippet when partaking of Wantsum Imperium, a solid Best Bitter brewed using Kentish hops.
- X93 to Whitby -
With the train service still heavily impacted by delays, we end up catching the bus back to our hotel and the same mode of transport also comes up trumps for our Whitby Wednesday. The 30th October is Stephen's actual birthday so it seems highly appropriate to go all gothic for the occasion, although we do resist any instruction to wear black clothing. The X93 route is a long distance service linking Scarborough with Middlesbrough via Robin Hood's Bay, Whitby and Guisborough; operators Arriva are applying the capped £2 single fares so we settle on the top deck for a scenic journey which contains more than its fair share of hilly bits with tight twists and turns. We can see Whitby Abbey on the horizon as we near the town's bus station.
- The view from Whitby's West Pier -
Given Whitby's literary links to Dracula and its longstanding support for goth culture, the town really comes into its own at this time of year. The lead up to Halloween and the town's Goth Weekend in early November mean there is an extra spookiness in the air, which explains the plethora of spiders, witches and pumpkins at almost every turn. We nip our way along East Terrace to see Captain Cook's Memorial Statue (unceremoniously topped with a very brazen seagull) then promenade along the West Pier in all its planked glory. We've been enjoying a fine week weather wise but the overcast conditions only add to the effect here, ensuring we are seeing Whitby's unique rugged charm without the sugarcoating sunshine can bring.
- St Mary's, Whitby -
No visit to Whitby is ever complete with a look around the eastern half of the town where the harbour is equally as beguiling on the far side of the River Esk estuary. One particular act of pilgrimage we must make is to ascend the famous 199 Steps up to St Mary's Church and the mournful remains of Whitby Abbey, even if we're far from being the only ones making the notorious climb. My long legs cope with the exertion reasonably easily but Stephen doesn't enjoy the return walk down the cobbled lane much at all - he is getting older though so I must show some sympathy!!! On the pubs front we're spoiled for choice really but I'm more than happy to try out the Plough (a Samuel Smith's oasis of calm on Baxtergate wherein I sample the 3.4% Dark Mild) and the Waiting Room, a compact bar housed within the railway station.
- Scarborough Spa -
The week is whizzing by at a rate of knots and Thursday 31st October is now upon us with the promise of Pickering. The morning light across Scarborough Bay is utterly gorgeous so I'm out early with my camera again trying to do the place justice, focusing on The Spa conferencing and entertainment venue as designed by the architect Sir Joseph Paxton. I can well imagine how it would have been highly fashionable to drink the spa waters here; apparently the Prince of Wales would have been a frequent guest during its Victorian heyday. The accompanying South Cliff Gardens zigzag their way across the piece and I enjoy getting zooms of the multicoloured beach huts further out towards White Nab.
- Pickering, St Peter & St Paul -
And so to Pickering we proceed, making use of the number 128 bus service as run by East Yorkshire. The full route continues to Helmsley but the hour-long bit we get to savour is an all time classic ride taking in several stunning villages such as Snainton and Hutton Buscel. On his part, Stephen gets excited about Thornton-le-Dale because Mathewson's car auctions is based here (as seen on the Bangers and Cash television series). Alighting on Eastgate, our initial Pickering perambulations cover Smiddy Head, the Market Place and the Parish Church of St Peter & St Paul. I have fond memories of staying in the town twenty years ago and it hasn't changed all that much, a nice skip down family holiday memory lane.
- Departure time at Pickering -
Pickering serves as the inland eastern terminus of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, a preserved heritage line which gained added popularity due to appearing on 'Heartbeat' for many years. Originally opening in 1836, the railway became a victim of the Beeching Cuts in the mid 1960s before commencing its current charitable status in the 1970s; more recently it has been possible to extend services beyond Grosmont to terminate once again at Whitby. I loved Pickering Station in 2004 and it's equally as enchanting now with the scent of coal smoke on the breeze and a guard's whistle pre-empting the next locomotive's departure.
- Anne Bronte's Grave -
Two Pickering watering holes take our fancy whilst we're here, namely the White Swan (a food-focused coaching inn serving Black Sheep Bitter) and the Bay Horse (a bulge-fronted Market Place mainstay where I try the Bradfield Farmer's Blonde). The 128 shows up early for our return ride to Scarborough, meaning we're well placed to track down Anne Bronte's Grave within St Mary's Churchyard - the youngest member of the Bronte family, Anne died aged 29 but her legacy lives on in the novels Agnes Grey and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall. Our final Scarborough evening allows time for a couple more pints, one at the Frigate micropub as it nears its second birthday - only the twelve(!) Lilley's ciders available here - and the other at the Leeds Arms tucked away in the Old Town with its gallery of fishing memorabilia. Come Friday 1st November we're homeward bound for the West Midlands once more but it has been a lovely few days away with many happy returns to Mr Beardsmore. Cheers!
