Monday, May 9

Covering Coventry with the Chip Foundation

The Chip Foundation team have been promising Ken a birthday outing for the best part of three years but alas Covid concerns scuppered our plans in both 2020 and 2021. The adage 'third time lucky' certainly applies in this case as 2022 conjures up a suitable trip with which to celebrate Mr May's missed milestones...

- The New Coventry Station -
Friday 6th May 2022 is the date we've decided upon and Ken has requested Coventry as his preferred destination, meaning we can see what has become of the city's railway station. The new main entrance is now fully functional with its dramatic red and grey frontage dominating the Warwick Road end of the platforms. Fans of 1960s brutalism will be pleased to note that the previous equivalent is still very much in use, and with the redeveloped boulevard outside being a vast improvement on the dingy old Station Square, Coventry is gradually getting itself a transport gateway to be proud of.

- Ford's Hospital Garden -
A quartet of pubs are waiting to claim our custom but before those we entertain ourselves with the seeing of sights old and new. Coventry's year-long tenure as the UK City of Culture may be drawing to a close but the impact of that prestigious title should hopefully live on for a long while yet. Our route into the city centre involves Greyfriars Green where we can say hello to 'Trigger', a horse sculpture originally fabricated from scrap material in the 1980s. The Wave Waterpark has a strong whiff of chlorine in the air and then Greyfriars Lane offers glimpses of Ford's Hospital, a historic almshouse complex that was founded in 1509 and restored after the Blitz. The hospital's cottage garden looks an utterly enchanting oasis of calm today. 

- Godiva rides at noon -
The top end of Greyfriars Lane brings us out onto Broadgate bang on midday, which means we're in prime position to see the famous Godiva Clock in action. Every hour on the hour, the lady in question emerges naked on horseback from the right-hand doorway, eliciting glances from Peeping Tom who peeks out of his separate window above. We all manage to catch the entire spectacle apart from Mr B Senior who is otherwise distracted and only sees Godiva's buttocks disappearing back into the mechanical innards. Thankfully the nearby statue of the same mythical maiden doesn't move anywhere so John can still admire her at his leisure. 

- A Pool Meadow Mural Moment -
Our cultural mission continues with an essential visit to Coventry Cathedral where we afford the bombed-out ruins our full consideration - seeing evidence of the devastation that war can wreak only makes us ever more heartbroken about current events in Ukraine. With a nod to Ecce Homo and the former Girdler's Chapel, we press on to Pool Meadow Bus Station hoping to find further artworks. Having accounted for the 2 Tone mosaic with Mr D9 last December, my focus this time is on the 'In the City of Coventry' mural along the far flyover wall (near the National Express garage). Four faces from the world of entertainment are emblazoned either side of the underpass - we recognise Terry Hall from the Specials and Hazel O'Connor but Manjinder Virk the actress has us stumped. We don't watch enough Midsomer Murders! 

- Nick comes over all Peculier! -
We've definitely earned our first drink of the day so we steadily make our way to the Town Wall Tavern, quietly nestled on Bond Street behind the Belgrade Theatre. A tiny snug known as the Donkey Box might have been a squeeze for all five of us so we sit in the main bar, fascinated by a frieze of 1960s record sleeves. Sandie Shaw, Cleo Laine and Charles Aznavour are all represented as Nick savours some Theakston's Olde Peculier and Mr B Senior gripes about his Guinness. Ken and Stephen meanwhile are keeping half an eye on the cricket score from Old Trafford where Warwickshire are struggling to prise out any Lancashire wickets. 

- Chip Stop at Broomfield Park -
The chaps have been very appreciative of the scenery thus far but Upper Spon Street with its stench-filled subway is a tougher sell, and its hard to put a positive spin on the appearance of Meadow Street's grotty flats. Nevertheless, we cross the River Sherbourne into Spon End and collect a chip shop lunch for munching in a nearby park, Stephen naturally providing his usual pose with fork in hand. The Broomfield Tavern has been expressly requested by Nick so we simply have to do it, even if flaking paintwork makes some of our party wonder if the place is about to fall down. Ted the resident St Bernard sniffs us out the moment we enter and the conversational nature of the pub soon wins us over, as does the excellent beer. Riverside Stout (Froth Blowers Brewery), King Rat and Holden's Mild are all confirmed to be in top condition as Ken and JB debate the secrets to having a successful long life. 

- The Spire Bar -
Two more watering holes will round off the day just nicely, so we brave the stinky subway again to take in some of Spon Street's medieval architecture. The Hops D'Amour micropub only received a Hub Marketing visit prior to Christmas but has since been crowned Coventry CAMRA's Pub of the Year so a second viewing is very much in order; Shiny's Wrench Stout meets Brass Castle's Northern Blonde here as we enjoy the former sewing shop surroundings whilst nattering about cricket, life and the universe. The trip concludes at the Spire Bar off New Union Street, a distinctive venue located at the base of Christchurch Spire (the tower is all that remains of a landmark place of worship that was another casualty of the Blitz). Operated by the local Dhillons Brewery, much of the seating is outside on perspex-clad beer booths. Nick evokes his Grolsch-drinking past by partaking of Ghost Town Lager whereas Ken and Mr B Senior both speak very highly of the Camden Pale, and Stephen prays for a Bears bowling breakthrough. With that we troop back to the railway station and the day is done - cheers!

4 comments:

  1. Genuinely I had no idea Cov was city of culture, must get there soon. New entries in the Guide a rarity. Love the town.

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    1. Hi Martin, I think Coventry's official year of being City of Culture expires this month but there should be an ongoing legacy for a good while yet - and plenty of lovely street art to keep you well and truly occupied (I particularly like the various installations in and around the bus station). Hops D'Amour is your standard micro in many respects but has proven very friendly on both of my visits and the ale was great too. Cheers, Paul

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  2. Town Wall Tavern was where I was first introduced to Bass on a PFA funded Pub Management course in the nineties!!! Glad to see it is still proper pubbery and have not been to any of the rest but Cov looks to be a city on the up...

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    1. Hi Beermat, it sounds like the Town Wall Tavern converted you to the noble Bass cause in that case! Cracking pub even if we missed out on the Donkey Box experience on this occasion. Coventry doesn't disappoint in terms of proper pubs, especially if you don't mind a bit of keg stuff along the way, and the City of Culture has been having a positive impact. Cheers, Paul

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