Leaping into Northamptonshire

The 29th of February only comes around once every four years, so when that date does indeed arrive I feel obliged to make the most of it with some exploring. In 2008 I went to Bridgnorth, in 2012 the Chip Foundation happened upon Harborne, and now in 2016 I join Nick Turpin for a supercharged Stagecoach sprint around Daventry and Braunston...

This Leap Year trip log commences in Wolverhampton, where I investigate progress at the Springfield Brewery site as construction of a new educational campus gathers pace. Nearby is the converted Waggon & Horses pub, now partially a Polish delicatessen, although I can also remember when there was a Coach & Horses boozer in the vicinity; the former was a Banks's tied house, the latter came under the auspices of Mitchells & Butlers.

- Former Waggon & Horses -

Time for some trains as a combination of London Midland stoppers and Chiltern connections carry me from Wolverhampton to Leamington via Birminghams New Street and Moor Street. Nick Turpin is on hand to meet me outside Leamington station so we can seek out our Stagecoach, the 65 to Daventry being selected on this occasion.The route was initially familiar through to Harbury, Bishops Itchington and Deppers Bridge (where the Great Western pub is an isolated landmark) but thereafter it was a case of uncovering new horizons. Napton intrigues as a canal village part-perched on a hill, while Staverton is over the border into Northants with the Countryman Inn and Lonsdale's car dealership.

- Daventry Bus Station -

The final approach into Daventry takes us past the town's ambulance depot then along St James Street to the bus station, a compact pull-in/reverse-out interchange with a penchant for red lamp posts. Nick Turpin has on his person a town map that comes in handy for finding our way around. Our trail therefore takes in landmarks such as the Moot Hall, the Market Square, Holy Cross Church (built out of distinctive local ironstone) and Wheatsheaf Court, a care home that was originally a hotel frequented by King Charles I during the English Civil War.

- The Moot Hall -

In need of refreshment, we endeavour to try out a couple of tempting watering holes. The George on St James Street gets us started with respective halves of Lancaster Bomber and Tetley's Cask Bitter, then we decamp to the Saracens Head Wetherspoons for the novelty of a 'Mexican Monday' lunch. I'm not sure if the average highwayman's diet back in the day would have included things such as burritos, quesadilla and guacamole though! The chilli kick of the cuisine is offset by a decent pint of Arkell's Kingsdown as we enjoy inspecting the pub's historic rambling interior.

- Bandit with a Burrito -

Our second Stagecoach steed of the day is the number 12 to Braunston, passing through the new Middlemore Farm estate that has sprung up overlooking Drayton Reservoir. The journey only takes a quarter of an hour or so before we alight at Braunston Green just below the village hall. We can then stroll along the main street, encountering the Wheatsheaf, the Old Plough, a traditional butchers and a chip shop (it was a good job Mr Beardsmore wasn't present as the Braunston Fryer doesn't open on Mondays). All Saints Church sits at the far end of the lane with a blue clockface that looks like an interloping afterthought.

- Braunston Turn -

The church is sometimes referred to as the 'Cathedral of the Canals' in reference to Braunston's famed waterways heritage. We join the towpath by the Boathouse pub and quickly find Braunston Turn, a seminal location that marks the intersection of the Grand Union and Oxford Canals. The turn takes the form of a triangle marked by two elegant Horseley turnover bridges and a junction house. Photos taken we wander back past the Boathouse to reach Braunston Marina with its extensive moorings, dry dock and restored toll house. Its absolutely fascinating admiring the array of narrowboats and generally being nosy. 

- Braunston Marina -

Beyond the marina are a couple more Grand Union bridges before we amble through to Braunston village for a swift half. A barking dog deters us from trying the Wheatsheaf so the Old Plough gets the nod for a taster of their eponymous house ale and a look at the table skittles arrangement (sadly we didn't have enough time to have a go). Resuming our ride on the 12, we settle in for more Stagecoach action through Willoughby, Dunchurch and the outlying estates of Rugby (whereby a pub called the Griffin was spotted at one point). The most memorable feature of the route however was a circuit by Rye Hill Prison that sent Nick Turpin into something of a panic; luckily they didn't raise the alarm for escaped highwaymen so our hero avoided incarceration.

- Ale from Ashover -

All of which means we are clear to round the day off in Rugby with an evening half in the Merchants Inn. This is a pub that our felonious friend thoroughly approves of and a swig of Ashover's 1910 Porter is an ideal tonic among all the vintage breweriana. Our final slice of Stagecoach action involves the 86 through to Coventry, trundling through Long Lawford and Wolston in the dark before dashing to Coventry Station for our trains home. Thereby hangs the tale of how Nick Turpin was 'Dastardly in Daventry', and I wonder where I might pitch up on 29th February 2020...