Hark is that the sound of herald angels we hear, or the clinking of Guinness-laden glasses? The Festive Forage is an annual tradition dating back to December 2015, whereby Nick and I pick out a chosen destination in order to explore its pub potential. This year we're targeting lovely Leamington once again with Chief Tour Guide Nick plotting out a memorable crawl south of the river...
- The Micro Pug -
It's Saturday 21st December 2024 as I eagerly board the 09:39 Bournemouth-bound train at Wolverhampton, giving me my direct link to Royal Leamington Spa. Nick is ready and waiting on the platform to greet me so Operation Forage can begin in earnest, although today we're eschewing the town's Regency splendours in favour of the grittier surroundings of Old Town and beyond. Being as its nearly Christmas, we're allowed a morning tipple so Clemens Street guides us via the Creative Quarter to the Micro Pug, a place forever etched into our minds when it was known as Apehangers Bar (with a Smeg fridge for an entrance). Now part of the small Pug group of local venues, it has a coffee shop upstairs and tasteful bar down below. Opening halves of Guinness set a trend we'll be maintaining for much of the day, albeit the Jurassic Park pinball machine is spared our attentions.
- Canalside Street Art -
The towpath of the Grand Union Canal awaits, acting as an unofficial art gallery with much participation from the Leamington Mural Festival. Every available wall or bridge structure has seemingly been given its own street art makeover, offering me much photographic inspiration in the form of grinning alligators, potion-wielding wizards plus cat and mouse interactions. The festival ran from April to October and attracted plenty of social media attention or so I'm told. Passing the likes of Althorpe Street, Rushmore Street and St Mary's Road, we home in on the Sydenham estate which effectively forms the southeastern edges of Leamington's town span.
- The Fusilier -
Situated on the opposite canal bank just after Bridge 37, the Fusilier will be our second port of call and is a typical flat-roofed suburban boozer (of the type that would have a certain Mr D9 performing ecstatic cartwheels at the very thought of it). The pub name proudly references Warwickshire's contribution to the Fusiliers, an infantry regiment within the British Army, while the place serves as a community local showing live sport and hosting occasional events. We nip in for a swift half, finding a secluded booth adorned with historical pictures, although most of the regulars are fully engrossed in the Portsmouth vs Coventry football fixture. The adjacent precinct meanwhile comprises Pete's Plaice chip shop, a chemists and a William Hill bookies along with a mini Morrisons store which doubles up as the neighbourhood post office.
- Rodney and a Reliant Robin -
Nick's expert navigation leads us back along the canal to Bridge 39 from whence a mysterious path proceeds into the Eagle Recreation Ground, a pocket of a park I'd not come across until now. The surrounding terraced houses provide the backdrop to the Green Man, a Tachbrook Street boozer which acted as a filming location in Lenny Henry's 'Three Little Birds' television series. After a doorstep chat with the cheerful gaffer, we call inside for yet more Guinness and an update on the Aston Villa vs Manchester City lunchtime kick-off; let's just say we soon hear about it when Villa double their lead. Aside from the footballing roars, there is further fun to be had outside courtesy of an Only Fools and Horses artwork depicting Del Boy, Rodney, Uncle Albert, Trigger and Boycie complete with their well-known catchphrases - lovely jubbly!
- Jubilant about the Jet? -
Our Guinness-guzzling antics next require a couple of revisits to establishments either side of Brunswick Street. The Joiners Arms retains its Portuguese flavour and flags as our fourth half of the day is duly drained; the pubs in this area of Leamington always feel very down to earth and are definitely pulling in the punters so close to Christmas. Never for the faint hearted, the Jet lives down to our rudimentary expectations but does have a loyal following which merits us popping in briefly for the sake of completion. A simple spartan interior with a beer garden to match doesn't detract from our enjoyment; I understand that this one was known as the Jet & Whittle when first built in the late 1950s/early 1960s, possibly a nod to jet engine inventor Sir Frank who lived locally during his school years.
- Windmill Hill Taproom -
Every time we come to Leamington, Nick makes it his personal mission to unearth a surprise find or two - let's be fair, he's conjured up some absolute crackers over the years. Can he do it again? You bet he can and he's really excelled himself this time around, revealing not one, not two but THREE stunning gems all clustered under the railway arches off Neilston Street. First up is the Windmill Hill Brewing Company's on-site taproom, currently operating on Friday and Saturday evenings albeit with plans to expand those hours in 2025. A range of draught beers are accompanied by a fridge full of tempting craft bottles and cans; I opt for the Porter (giving 4% supreme smoothness) whereas our resident royal chances a Pale, making a change from all the Guinness. Basic benches amidst the fermenting vessels help us settle in.
- Antlers Away in Southbound -
Hot on the heels of Windmill Hill comes Southbound, literally just an arch or two away and not a place I'd ever heard of. Billing themselves as a cafe bar, we're initially unsure whether they are open but the shutters are merely down in order to keep out any early evening chills. Jubel Peach lager is a new one on me but hits the spot nicely with refreshing fruity notes that aren't overpowering. Preparations are underway for a live gig starting in a couple of hours, in which case this would make for a very intimate performance space. Gourmet pork pies and some serious French cheese wedges are available for those of a foodie persuasion, the only slight downside is having my tinsel antlers upstaged by someone else wearing flashing LED ones.
- Czech Mate -
Knowing when I've been out-Christmassed, we decamp to the third of our railway arch trinity and see what Brubl has to offer. A glowing inflatable Santa Claus merrily beckons us inside where Gary the brewery dog seems keen on sniffing all and sundry. We think they're gearing up for a staff party but we're welcome to stay and partake of the Czech Mate pilsner, one of six Brubl concoctions pouring tonight (Napton Ciders are also well represented). The arches together form the Victoria Business Centre with a set of shared toilets behind multicoloured railings; I can say with some confidence that we will return. In the meantime, we round off our 2024 Forage with a Railway Inn reprise (back on the Guinness) and a cheeky last look inside Kelsey's Bar, mainly to see if their table football is in working condition - it possibly is although legless defenders wouldn't bode well. Cheers - and Merry Christmas!!