Ludlow and Tenbury Wells

Rising in mid Wales a little to the south of Newtown, the River Teme flows eastwards through Powys, Shropshire and eventually into Worcestershire where it meets the River Severn below Worcester. Two of the towns it visits along the way form the focus of a February getaway with Bookworm Bygrave, so here are selected highlights from our investigations of Ludlow and Tenbury Wells...

- Ludlow Castle Looms Above -

Let's start in Shropshire and lovely Ludlow which always rewards the intrepid traveller with its fascinating array of historic buildings combining to create an enchanting mixture of medieval and Georgian architecture. The town's castle originally commenced construction circa 1085/86 and its ruins contain features from the Norman and Tudor periods; to this day it dominates the area, standing boldly on its crest above the riverbank and commanding views across both the Welsh Marches and the immediate Salopian countryside. We briefly have a nose inside the gift shop (with Emily nervously making the acquaintance of a gleaming suit of armour) before strolling below the towers on a perimeter path that offers fine vistas over Linney and Dinham.

- Bookworm Bygrave beside the Teme -

Dinham - with its 25% downhill gradient in places - is our route to the water's edge, noting that Millennium Green has benches where you can sit and enjoy the scenery. An adjacent building (now partially housing a coffee shop) was formerly a water-powered corn mill while Dinham Bridge itself dates from the 19th century and boasts four stone arches spanning the Teme in sturdy fashion. Alongside our general sightseeing, there is scope for Bookworm Bygrave to live up to her nickname by perusing the shelves of Oxfam and the Castle Bookshop, striking lucky in the second of those for a Sylvia Plath purchase. Price's Bakery meanwhile serves up luxurious hot chocolate and gorgeous traybake cakes, whereby we can attest to the quality of their flapjacks and millionaire's shortbread. Artisan sourdough loaves seem popular here.

- The Dog Hangs Well -

Time for a pubby paragraph and it's not an exaggeration to say Ludlow has so many tempting taverns it's a struggle to pick which ones to try. Top of the WME wishlist are two classic parlour pubs that are rightly recognised for the quality of their conversion from other uses: the Blood Bay used to be a retail premises that has been lovingly restored to give a sense of authentic Victorian escapism, while the Dog Hangs Well on Corve Street is a hidden gem operating restricted opening hours - if the lantern is lit outside that's your clue it is open. Mobile phone use is banned in both establishments because they seek to conjure a sense of a bygone age, while the ale is excellent as Titanic Plum Porter meets Night Owl's Moonbather Stout. Further quality - this time of the gastronomic variety - is on offer at the Blue Boar, a coaching inn near the castle which kindly squeezes us in for a cracking meal, then a Black Country Ales nightcap in the Unicorn has us fussing the resident dogs before braving an unexpected blizzard!

- Teme Bridge, Tenbury Wells -

Thankfully we've thawed out in time for our tickle around Tenbury Wells, although the sight of my frozen hair getting encrusted with white snowflakes will be the source of ongoing Bygrave amusement I suspect. It must be around thirty years since I last came to Tenbury - my Nan and Grandad used to have a caravan in Stourport which provided a base for a few family adventures so it'll be interesting to see how much I remember. The answer is not a fat lot, although one instantly recognisable feature is the Teme Bridge as rebuilt in 1908. The river effectively forms the county boundary here, with the Burford side coming under Shropshire whereas the town centre is firmly within Worcestershire. We park up by the swimming baths and stage an initial recce, noting Tenbury Wells Library and some independent local shops. Banfield & Son's ironmongers has an interesting old frontage bearing stickers for Silent Refrigerators whilst proudly declaring 'We Stock Wolf'.

- Tenbury Round Market -

Two Tenbury heritage landmarks I am particularly keen to track down and photograph are the Round Market and the Pump Rooms. The first of these is a small but elaborate oval building which offers stallholders an undercover space from which to sell their produce; having first opened in 1858, it continues to trade five days a week. The Pump Rooms meanwhile share the same designer (James Cranston) as the market hall and were commissioned in order to develop Tenbury's spa town status. Built in 1862, the rooms form a highly distinctive ensemble in the Chinese Gothic style and nowadays serve as the Town Clerk's office and a meeting space that can host civil ceremonies. 

- Bullseye Bygrave wins again! -

After a most enjoyable brunch in Mr Thom's Cafe and Grill (a late breakfast for yours truly and a gooey bacon, brie and cranberry ciabatta for Miss B respectively), we have the difficult task of choosing which Tenbury pubs to sample. The Pembroke House gets the nod on account of its general wonkiness, black and white beams with a welcoming sense of cosiness. Robinsons Flagon Cider is produced nearby in Little Hereford - their orchards go back generations - so a pint of that is a must, and we take refuge in the far games room as the heavens open. Emily proves masterful on the darts (well she won, put it that way) whereas I display better prowess on the pool table. Once the weather improves, we decamp to the Market Tavern for another dose of Black Country Ales hospitality, earwigging on the Wales v France Six Nations rugby over a devilishly dark glass of Beowulf Finns Hall Porter. Two terrific towns on the Teme!

Chip Foundation Chronicles: Ludlow and Cleobury Mortimer

Episode 81 of the Chip Foundation Chronicles will involve a sun-blessed slice of Shropshire with which we can celebrate me getting another year older. The trip also gives us a chance to collectively raise a toast to Mr B Senior after his recent passing...

- The 292 on Upper Galdeford -

It's Friday 31st May - the last day of spring - as we rendezvous aboard the 09:56 train from Smethwick Galton Bridge to Kidderminster. Nick updates us on his Llangollen holiday antics before we troop across Kiddy town centre hoping the buses will behave better than they did on the equivalent trip last year. The 292 is indeed on layover so we won't be deprived of our Cleobury connection this time around, although first off we'll ride the entire route through to Ludlow via Bewdley and Far Forest. It's a lovely journey make no mistake, especially the bit over the Clee Hills which requires much low gear grinding to get up any steep stuff; the driver also needs to keep his eyes peeled for random roaming sheep with an apparent deathwish!

- Ludlow Castle -

Ludlow is a lovely place to visit at any time of year although this for us will only be a relatively brief encounter: an hour and fifteen minutes to get our heritage fix and try just one of the local watering holes. We start by strolling through the Bull Ring and past the Butter Cross to Castle Square where the market stalls are attracting many an eager shopper. A ceremonial cannon guards the main entrance to Ludlow Castle itself, a mighty Norman fortification perched high above the River Teme. Prince Arthur (the elder brother of King Henry VIII) lived here with his wife Catherine of Aragon prior to his death in 1502, and it is said that his 'heart' is still buried in the town. How different history could have been had Arthur not succumbed to the sweating sickness and died at the age of fifteen...

- Stained Glass in St Laurence's -

Ludlow has many other treats to entice enthusiasts of fine English architecture, most notably the Feathers Hotel with its intricate half-timbered frontage (it has been operating as a hotel since circa 1670). Another unmissable building has to be St Laurence's Parish Church with embellishments that could put several cathedrals to shame, from a noted set of misericord carvings to a commanding square bell tower and a fine array of stained glass windows. We peacefully peruse the chancel, nave and aisles before pausing in the Lady Chapel which is showcasing a Beatrix Potter theme with references to Peter Rabbit and Miss Tiggywinkle.

- R White's in the Old Street Tavern -

As regards pub prospects you really can't go wrong with Ludlow's wide selection of tempting inns so picking just one to sample is quite a dilemma. In the end we opt for one of the town's newest arrivals, the Old Street Tavern which - as you may have guessed - is on Old Street a little along from the Bull Ring. A townhouse converted from two shop frontages, it first opened in autumn 2022 and offers three rotating ales as well as cobs prepared to order. Live music is held upstairs on Friday evenings but we eye up the left-hand snug when partaking of Summer Lightning, R White's Lemonade or Dancing Duck's Abduction. Plain seating gives a parlour feel although there are Hotel de Tourisme octagonal signs for a continental French flavour.

- The Kings Arms -

Still wary of the 292's habit for iffy punctuality, we're pleased to see our next Diamond steed hove into view so we trundle back over the Clee Hills to Cleobury Mortimer - the sheep seem to get particularly brazen in the vicinity of Cornbrook Corner. Upon alighting outside the Talbot Hotel, Stephen can't detect any signs of life at Mimi's Plaice chip shop so we take a punt on a pub lunch courtesy of the Kings Arms. This proves to be an excellent decision, not only due to it being a Hobsons Brewery taphouse, but also because Ken and Nick can join forces on the 2 for £15 Fishy Friday deals. Stephen and I are equally as happy to partake of our chunky ham, egg and chips meals, washed down in my case with a refreshing pint of Twisted Spire.

- Cleobury Mortimer Market Hall -

The name of said ale is inspired by the misshapen protrusion that adorns St Mary the Virgin, Cleobury Mortimer's Anglican church. The crookedness isn't quite of Chesterfield proportions but nevertheless makes for a very noticeable landmark among the rolling hills of South East Shropshire, while the name Cleobury Mortimer sounds like it should belong to a very posh public schoolboy! The town also has a Market Hall (housing the tourist information centre), several independent stores (including Mumfords Ironmongers, an unspoiled throwback that reminds us of Arkwrights from Open All Hours), and The Wells, an open water source that appears to have dried up in recent years.  

- Bootiful Beer in the Talbot Hotel -

Continuing with our Cleobury Mortimer crawl remit, we call next into the Royal Fountain just a little further down the hill. Ludlow's Stairway is the star attraction here as we commandeer a set of armchairs and raise a reflective glass to the memory of the late John Beardsmore, he would have loved this trip out I'm sure. The Talbot Hotel then beckons as an old coaching inn which is currently operated by Greene King; again we can take our pick of the local cask ales with Hobsons 'Bootiful' being the brewery's May special - we presume it has nothing to do with any Bernard Matthews turkey catchphrases! At this juncture I leave the chaps to their own devices momentarily so as to check out the Stable Tavern (literally to the rear of the Talbot) where I'm rewarded with a speedy slurp of Wye Valley's Mayflower - very nice! 

- A Severn Valley Swansong -

The 16:23 departure is running late but a quick check on Diamond's tracker app reassures us that the bus is on its way, and sure enough it duly appears to whisk us back to Kidderminster (bypassing Bewdley due to bridge work diversions). Our final calling point will be our old friend the King & Castle on the Severn Valley Railway station, a timeless refreshment rooms setting in which to imbibe of a faultless Bathams Best Bitter - great ale, great company and a place chock full of railwayana, this is approaching pub heaven as far as I'm concerned. It may have been at the second time of asking but it feels like we've properly conquered Cleobury Mortimer now, and a longer return to Ludlow is definitely a possibility. Cheers!