- The Tipsy Toad -
This highlights reel begins on Saturday 29th August when we break our drizzly drive down to Hereford with a pit stop in Bromyard. I'd probably not set foot in this unheralded market town since I was a teenager and couldn't remember very much about it, but there is a nice High Street populated by independent businesses and in kinder weather I'd imagine the views across the River Frome valley would be quite something. Dodging the raindrops, we enjoy deluxe hot chocolates and cake courtesy of Brew (a busy little coffee shop) then turn our attention to the Tipsy Toad bar. They definitely run with the toad theme for all that its worth here but it all adds to the fun, especially when you can pose with a cute toadstool toy while supping a pint of Flagon Cider as produced by Robinsons of Tenbury Wells.
- The Ascension Window -
Continuing into Hereford city centre, we hit heavy football traffic passing Edgar Street stadium but thankfully still find a space in a multistorey car park. Our immediate aim is to get around a couple of bookstores before they close for the day, with Emily's prime prey being Oxfam on Broad Street followed by Rossiter's (a really nice shop). A couple of initial literary purchases are made, paving the way for us to savour the spectacle of Hereford Cathedral. This really is one of England's great places of worship and I love the modern St Thomas tapestry, delving into the spooky crypt or marvelling at the Ascension Window. The latter was crafted in striking multicoloured shafts for a mesmeric wave-like effect in tribute to the Special Air Service (SAS).
- The Orange Tree -
Having checked into our accommodation, Saturday evening is spent back in Hereford's main centre grabbing a bite to eat before revisiting a couple of the city's best pubs. The food angle is covered by Leaven, a restaurant specialising in sourdough pizza - we partake of the Tutti al Carni and Capricciosa dishes respectively. The Orange Tree is a homely Black Country Ales establishment on King Street, alive with the sound of multiple conversations although we do find ourselves a quieter corner, then its over to Eign Street for the Beer in Hand. Local cider and perry is well represented including several offerings from Oliver's of Ocle Pychard; I try the Traditional Perry while Emily is on puppy watch, there being a few cute canines about.
- Hay-on-Wye Booksellers -
Sunday is arguably the day the Bookworm has most been looking forward to, when we drive over the Welsh border into Hay on Wye (although a car soundtrack containing 'My Name Is Potato' isn't something Emily would have been expecting). We park up on Oxford Road by the town library and pitch straight into a succession of bookshops - they're absolutely everywhere. Addeyman's Annexe is first up, higgledy-piggledy with hazard tape marking out any carpet trip hazards; apparently this shop is secondary to their main outlet on Lion Street but is stuffed to the ginnels in its own right. It is followed in turn by North Books, Hay Booksellers (sited below the castle with hints of bleached timbers), the sci-fi theme of Bookshop 451 and then a store dedicated to all things Alice in Wonderland.
- The River Wye -
Broad Street has its moments, leaving me completely gobsmacked by the presence of Alan R. Powell's carpentry and joinery workshop, based in a rotting green garage that probably hasn't been painted for the best part of 30 years. The Broad Street Book Centre swiftly presents a whole literary emporium, seemingly with railway titles at every turn, while Emily had spoken glowingly about one specific store beforehand. I can soon see why she rates Richard Booth's Bookshop so highly - it really is a legendary place with creaking staircases and works across three floors, such a joy to rummage around. In between times we indulge in a little wander to look out upon the River Wye, seemingly popular with canoeists when seen from Bridge Street.
- Draught Bass at Kilverts -
Our Hay exertions are also punctuated by amazing ice creams courtesy of Shepherds, where we push the boat out for luxurious double scoop cones topped with sprinkles; the marmalade stracciatella flavour has a tasty citrus tang infused by flecks of dark chocolate. Pubs naturally feature too, in which case we account for three of the town's taverns. The Old Black Lion is slightly away from the main cut and thrust, offering accommodation and serving up huge Yorkshire puddings on its Sunday roasts (not that we were eating). I like the rustic sense presented by the Three Tuns, all flagstones and gnarled beams with a nice pint of Best, whereas Kilvert's delivers decent Draught Bass as we avoid the worst of a nasty shower.
- Weobley Church Sundial -
It would be rude of me to tell you exactly how many books Emily might have bought in Hay but common consensus is that she stayed within her self-imposed limits. Bank Holiday Monday is then dedicated to doing some of the Black & White Villages trail, investigating a succession of gorgeous settlements between Hereford and Leominster. The first of these is Weobley (note to self: it is pronounced 'Web-ley' as if pertaining to spidery thread), where we park by the Old Grammar School and undertake a full circuit of centuries old streets. The Portland Garage has three vintage petrol pumps dispensing gallons of DERV then the Wonky Badger is a charming timbered teashop. A churchyard stroll enables us to admire the sunkissed sundial of St Peter & St Paul's before the Old Salutation has holiday lunchtime trading hours to permit a glass of Weston's Vintage Cider inside its rambling quaint lounge bar.
- Pembridge Sheep? -
Dilwyn awaits next via twisting country lanes where we happen upon a badger carved from an old treetrunk. St Mary the Virgin Church has an associated C of E primary school, and Emily proves an adept sign spotter when detecting a 'Lemster' mileage marker I otherwise wouldn't have noticed myself. The local pub in Dilwyn is the community-owned Crown, a pleasant spot for imbibing of Hop Shed's Sebright Golden Ale. The trail then moves on to Pembridge which straddles the Rhayader-bound A44. My architectural eye is drawn towards Brion Duppa's old almshouses, a charitable relic from the one-time Bishop of Winchester, while another church of St Mary has a detached belfry arrangement plus a curious set of three sculpted sheep.
- The White Swan, Eardisland -
Having photographed that Pembridge flock, we pop into the Red Lion for more refreshment just below the church - framed old gold shirts and signed footballs suggest an unexpected Wolverhampton Wanderers allegiance here so I feel right at home. Last but not least is the nearby village of Eardisland which remarkably Emily starts to recognise as somewhere she'd once stayed at for a friend's stag party. The White Swan counts as a revisit for the Bookworm but a new haunt for me, although we're the only customers to interrupt the landlord's Tipping Point watching brief. The River Arrow burbles past and the churchyard is pretty with drooping trees and mossy headstones. Sadly it's then time to drive home but what a three days we had!
